I have an 02 z28 that I put a raptor shift light on, and soon after setting the shift points to 6k rpm I realized that I was shifting earlier then 6k rpm before because now I get locked out of gear. When I didn't have the shift light I would either shift early or hit the rev limiter (slow stock tachometer ). I already have a tick master, so the pedal doesn't drop to the floor or get spongy when shifting at high rpm, the only problem I'm having is getting locked out of 3rd and 4rth gear. When I get locked out it does not grind or anything, it just wont let the gear in until the rpm drops some.

The only thing that I think is causing this problem is the ls7 clutch that I have on there now, I should of never gotten it when I did my swap from a4 to m6 . I need a clutch that will let me speed shift at high rpm without locking me out of gear. Later on I will be getting a cam and raising my shift points to 7k rpm. I have two clutches in mind, the mcleod rst or the monster Lt1-s. I don't plan on ever taking the car to the drag strip, mostly DD, highway runs, and some autocross. What do you guys think of the two clutches? or maybe my problem is something else?

Weight specs
Ls7 clutch/ ls2 flywheel - about 59lbs
rst/ light flywheel - 36lbs
rst/ billet flywheel - 51lbs
Monster Lt1-s/ light flywheel - 49 lbs

 

I actually fought this problem for a long time with my car after I bought it. I have the monster stage 3 clutch and a Tick MC. I just assumed something was off with the clutch or something because no matter how much I bled it or adjusted the pedal I still couldn't get high rpm shifts to work.

Well, I blew my motor, so I had to pull everything out, and I put it all back together using the same clutch, flywheel, etc. I have no issues now getting into gear at all in 3rd and 4th. I don't know if the previous owner just had the trans in a bind when it was mounted or if the clutch wasn't aligned right or what, but it's good to go now.

 

You may be experiencing whats called "over centering the pressure plate". It can happen if the Tick Master is not adjusted properly and its over extending the pressure plate spring, which will cause the clutch to not fully disengage at high RPM's.

 

Interesting, how do I go about adjusting the master cylinder to solve this?. Its been a long time since I had the swap and adjusted the master. I did noticed that it is a little hard to get into reverse sometimes, but its been like that ever since the swap was done. Do I lengthen the rod, or shorten it? The clutch pedal is about even with the brake at the moment.

 

I wont be able to drive the car until Sunday, so I wont be able to do the rev test until then. From what I have read, it seems that if the car moves forward the clutch is either dragging (I would need to lengthen the rod) or the tick master is "over extending the pressure plate" (I would need to shorten the rod).

Since the gears do not grind when I put the car in first gear with the car running or when I'm shifting while daily driving it, and also because my clutch pedal it about even with the brake pedal (maybe 2-3mm higher), this would indicates that I'm possibly over extending the pressure plate rite? that is if the car moves forward when I do the rev test. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

My clutch pedal is slightly higher than my brake pedal as well, and no more problems here. I would assume you're okay being only 2-3mm past it. I think Tick actually recommends even with the brake pedal if I remember correctly.

 

empatho you should really pay attention to posting so soon after a previous post - your avatar points to yourself lol

I am also a member of the locked out at rpm/ls7 clutch club but have noticed it shifts better when cold and with fresh fluid .

Also after a recent post about some strategically placed vents being added to be able to allow some airflow and be able to spray out the area around the clutch with air pressure to get rid of all the clutch material debris that keeps fouling the fluid I may give it a shot. don't know if brake clean or any other fluid may be a good idea either.

link to thread about doing this:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...ur-clutch.html

 

lol I didn't even notice about my avatar . I haven't flush the fluid in 2 years maybe that would help even though I have less then 20k miles. But I'm only having problems when shifting over 5500 rpm. Thanks for the link, I'm gonna go through it.

 

assuming you don't have a hydraulic problem causing disengagement issues you need to adjust the MC rod so it travels enough to do so.

Jack rear end up and secure on jack stands so rear tires clear the ground. start car, put in first and while holding the clutch down do the wheels still turn??

if so lengthen the rod slightly until the wheels no longer turn. This adjustment is typically very slight. Sometimes clutch pedal will be higher than brake pedal

if you can shift fine but after holding pedal down the clutch starts to engage you have a leak somewhere in hydraulics, often MC

 

I was going to suggest the same procedure only I'd start by shortening the rod to get the clutch pedal below the brake pedal and then work your way longer until the clutch doesn't drag. Doing it that way will prevent you from over extending your pressure plate.

 

I have he same high rpm shift issue. I put in a tick master and it helped but i still experience it usually at the track when I'm really spinning it up. I figured the stock slave wasn't keeping up. I believe I have the stock clutch I've never separated yet.

Also wonder if the self adjusting pressure plates are the issue and centrifugal force is keeping the pressure plate applied.

 

I have read that can often be the issue even with a Tick or other adjustable MC

disengagement issues with just getting the car in gear, especially reverse, of a system that was previously working fine often is due to failing hydraulics

 

I flushed the clutch today using the Ranger method and got some of the nasty stuff out. Unfortunately I did not get a chance to test drive the car, ill have to wait for tomorrow. I'm gonna flush the fluid a little more tomorrow with a new bottle just to make sure. Anyways, here is a pic of the old fluid.

Thanks, that some really good stuff there, I'm gonna try it tomorrow for sure.
Yeah, I might have to start from scratch.
I read a couple threads about exactly that. I wonder if its true, that's why I was looking into a new and better clutch.
The tick and ls7 clutch were installed at the same time, and reverse was always a little tricky to get into but I never got locked out.

 

I think I found your problem right there. Your suppose to use brake fluid not engine coolant. LOL

 

flushed the clutch again in the morning and then went for a drive to get the car nice and warm. After driving for a while I looked for a spot to do the rev test and also some pulls. I passed the rev test, and I did not get locked out of gear anymore. It looks like all I needed was to bleed the clutch, and I can finally shift and enjoy the new raptor shift light . Thanks everyone for the help. From now on I will bleed the clutch every time I do an oil change on the car.

wow lol, I didn't even notice that . I went back to edit my post.