Im trying to figure out if my clutch is slipping and not handling the power of the motor. I have a ls7 clutch in a full weight f-body. In the past when i had a clutch fail i could put it in a high gear and give it gas and i could watch the rpm rise without me going any where but that was a warn out clutch. This time whenever i stomp on it it almost feels like i have clutch chatter. Im just trying to rule out causes of this vibration

 

Contamination maybe? When you get it apart take a good look at the friction material to see if it has oil on it. A common cause is when folks change out clutches forget or don't know that the flywheel mounting bolt holes are not blind and go through into the crank case and are prone to leak and throw oil onto the clutch, DON'T use ARP moly but rather thread sealer or blue/red loc-tite. You'll know if it was slipping as there will be hot spots all over the friction surfaces of the flywheel and pressure plate.

 

I installed the clutch, was a fresh motor, dont think i used any locktite so its possible a pressure plate bolt is backing out, but if im going back in there im just going to replace the clutch. It was not acting up like this for the first 1k miles but i also wasnt sure what an ls7 clutch can handle in a full weight f-body since the motor has about 540tq at the wheels

 

540 RWTQ....don't F around with a single disc clutch. get a Twin. I don't make your kind of RWTQ but went with a Twin after running a few single disc clutches even with ceramic puc type discs. They also were OK for the 1st season but all started slipping or die horribly on the starting line by year 2.

You are likely experiencing clutch slip and as noted your PP & FW will show burn patches when you pull the clutch.

I went with McLeod Street Twin, love it. For the LSx they make the 2 disc types RST & RXT. One organic and the other ceramic. The later being better for drag race if that is your use intent. Both will easily hold your kind of power and drive like stock

 

I already have my eye on a monster lt1-s

 

that clutch has very good reviews. It or the Mcleod would do you well. If Monster made something for the red headed stepchild LT1/4 motor I would likely have gone with their clutch as Monster has great customer service reviews.

either way...for your kind of power, IMHO, get a twin disc clutch

 

Is it common to use locktite on flywheel and pp bolts? Blue or red?

 

yes, more to keep them from loosening. I use Red loc-tite

I have LT1, not LSx so if your crank does have holes that are not blind and do go into oil galley of motor than you need at least thread sealer (often white in color) or loc-tite which seals and dries to keep FW & PP bolts from coming out

 

Im just praying its either a pp bolt backing out or maybe oil from flywheel bolts and not from pilot. New dragonslayer crank

 

with your RWHP....I suspect you are just over powering this clutch. If also you have a oil leak contaminating the clutch disc than yes that will make any clutch slip.

Either way you need to pull it and inspect as at this point we are making comments on what symptoms you describe

IDK if the crank you have has blind or through holes and if through any oil is seeping through the FW bolts. You should be able to tell once you get it apart

if it is pilot bearing those are really no big deal to R&R

Autozone has a loan a tool thing I get the one bellow at. Plug & play on removal. It is a "blind hole puller" 27128