ACCELR8

I posted a couple of weeks ago about having a problem getting the car into gear. Several people suggested bleeding the hydraulics. Today I bled the hydraulics, but I still have the same problem.

Here's what I did:
- with the car off I had a friend pump the clutch several times, then hold it to the floor.
- I opened the bleeder until fluid stopped coming out, then closed it
- refilled the reservior
- repeated above steps probably 10 to 12 times

Once we were done I started the car to take it for a test drive, but couldn't get it into gear. The clutch pedal actually felt a little worse than before I bled the clutch. In addition, during the bleeding process, the clutch made a loud squeeking sound every time my friend pushed it in.

Did I bleed the clutch incorrectly? Or could I possibly have a bad slave cylinder?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jim

ACCELR8

Anyone?

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

What are you using for hydraulic fluid?

I got fancy on mine and used synthetic brake fluid, and the clutch hydraulics evidently hated it. Very hard to get into gear, and w/ the car on stands you could see the rear wheels start turning when I went into 1st gear.

I purged the synth fluid and installed regular Castrol brake fluid...same bleeding procedure again, and it's been happy ever since.

No clue why the synth brake fluid did what it did.

I do nearly same procedure as you listed, except for the following:

1) I have my friend release the clutch pedal after I tighten the bleeder.
2) I use my MityVac w/ conical tip to vac-bleed the master cyl via the reservoir.

ACCELR8

Thanks for the reply.

I just wanted to make sure I was bleeding the system properly and it sounds like I was.

I used the standard DOT 3 Brake Fluid.

I may try bleeding it again this weekend. And if that doesn't work I'll probably try bleeding the master cylinder. At least it will give me a reason to buy another tool (MityVac)

Thanks again,

Jim

SSactionLs1

IMO man, take it to a shop that has alot of ls1 experience, have them do it. Ive tried 3 times now and i still cant get it all out (mityvac as well)

ACCELR8

I probably would take it to a shop with a lot of LS1 experience, but I can't find one near Cleveland, Ohio.

Thanks for the suggestion though

ACCELR8

O.K., I tried bleeding the system with the Mityvac and I still have the problem. I'm starting to get the feeling that the problem is not air in the system. Anyone have any suggestions of what else it could be?

Thanks,

Jim

Scarecrow

My car was having the same problem. I bled it using the Mity Vac and things went well for a couple weeks. This weekend something let go. The reservoir was empty. When refilling, the fluid basically went straight from the reservoir to the concrete. So, as I type, I'm getting the updated master and slave installed. The stock clutch was apparently used up too, so a new SPEC 3 with aluminum flywheel is going in.

The stock 99 clutch and hydraulics lasted longer than I thought... 60K.

Your circumstances sound similar. So good luck.

Dal1as

I don't think you're supposed to wait until fluid quits flowing because air will then let it's way into the slave. The way I do it, is I pump the pedal a couple times, hold it in or half way down, then I break the bleeder but shut it before the pedal goes all the way to the floor or before the fluid quits flowing. Otherwise, my reasoning says it will let air back into the slave. You may have other issues but knowing how much of a pain bleeding our clutches is, you may not. Sorry but that's all I can tell you.

ACCELR8

Thanks for the replies.

I'm convinced that there is something wrong with my hydraulics. So I'm planning to replace the slave cylinder. Unfortunately, I don't know how to do this so I'm going to be posting another thread asking for advice. Feel free to chime in.

Thanks,

Jim

MrEddie

I did the one-man pump the pedal and crack the bleeder from inside the car (I drilled a small hole through the trans tunnel). I try to quickly close the bleeder after opening it, but I wonder if I'm quick enough. I'm able to get all gears now, but it is just a little notchy at high rpms. I think I'll try opening the bleeder when the pedal is partially down and then keep pushing down while I close the bleeder (that makes sense). I have a mityvac but will probably hold off on that since I hear a lot of mixed reviews, and I don't want to make things worse....

99 Pewter TA

iTrader: (38)

I've updated the slave & clutch. I still have the same problem with the clutch having no pressure/ not going into gear. It was recommended to update the master. Just thought I'd give .02.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

yeah it sounds like ur doing it wrong i wouldnt wait until the fluid stops, your supposed to wait til the fluid slows down and then close it. also make absolute sure that the fluid reservoir doesnt go empty. you might have to do this 30 times or more to get the pedal feel back.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

I just bled my clutch last week. I was doing it like you at first, leaving the valve open too long. I had my friend pump the pedal 30 times and hold it down the last pump. I would open the bleeder valve, switch the ratchet to clockwise, and tigten it back up. I did this as quick as possible. After only 2-3 sequences the feel came back, but I did it a few more times for good measure. About the squeaking, mine did the same thing, but after I took it for a test drive and came back, it didn't do it anymore. Goodluck!!!

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

Brian...get a 1/4" drive breaker bar. Much easier to use....

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Thanks for the heads up my man!!! I will do that next time around.

White 02 WS6

Where is the bleeder valve for the slave cyclinder, I need to change my fluid as well...

Dustin Butts

iTrader: (5)

It's about 2 inches directly above where the braided steel pressure line goes into the bellhousing. There is a hole there. The fitting is in that hole. You have to feel for it. You can't see it.

Y2K SS

iTrader: (1)

hey guys, no one mentioned it but does your fluid just drain into the bell housing?? is it okay if it does? I've tried the spark plug cap with the vacuum line but I can't open it or close it. just did it with the wrench and now I got fluid drippin out of the bottom of the housing.

muraoka

iTrader: (2)

i've done several of these drill mods and clutch swaps. the best way i've found is to bench bleed the master. the slave should be fine, don't touch it.if it in the car try this .disconnect the feed line at the slave.have a buddy pump up the pedal and hold use a 3/16 punch and push the end of the fitting on the line. the fluid will shoot out with much force. be sure not to drain the resivoir.
by the way i put a centerforce in my 99. i used the stock slave and a stock 97 master the pedal stop had to moved up so the clutch pedal sits forward the brake pedal about an inch. but the clutch works great.neither the 99 or an 02 master worked just couldn't shift quickly it always ground.
hope this helps, matt