AlexLSx7

I have just finished fitting my gearbox back on the car after putting in a new twin plate clutch. I also bought a brand new slave for it - https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...0058/overview/

When going to bleed the clutch line, the pedal was just going straight to the floor and not building up any pressure. After a little while, i heard dripping and went under the car. Fluid is leaking out of the bellhousing .

I am sure i tightened the lines up nice and tight and when i felt the lines from outside the gearbox, they do seem tight.

Could the brand new slave be dead???

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This is a very common issue and has happened to me. Often the non-GM slaves (made by LUK) leak out of the box.

The trick is to make sure you get a GM cylinder or one of the aftermarket LUK models. (They appear to be the exact same part - just MUCH less expensive.) The LUK has an "AP" stamped on it.

From the one star comment on the Summit site, it appears that your Doorman slave was not made by LUK.

AlexLSx7

Pretty sure my Dorman had an AP logo on it, but after the PITA i have had with changing this damn clutch and getting the box back on i will just pay the extra for the GM part.

Do you happen to know the GM part number for the same slave cylinder?

Spartan7

iTrader: (7)

Mine's not an LS, but in my search for a quality slave cylinder I bought a Wagner. It had the same "AP" logo and "Made in USA" on it just like the original GM one I replaced.

AlexLSx7

I still have the GM one i took out which i had with my LS7 Clutch and i think LS2 flywheel. It only has about 8000 miles on it and looks pretty much new.

Could i use that one still? It looks a little longer than the Dorman one which i was told would work with the clutch.

It is an LS3 with a TR6060 and a Mcleod RXT Street Twin

AlexLSx7

I've heard of them before, will have a look.

manzo81maro

Did your trans go in straight and smooth? Or did you have to pull it on with the bolts?

I did this myself, ended up cracking the body open of a brand new slave because I didn't have the trans supported properly when installing.
Same thing - everything installed, went to bleed line, fluid pissing out of the bell housing. This was after I got the driveshaft, and pretty much everything else back on the car, and filled the trans with fluid.

So pissed at myself for not taking my time and doing it right...huge pain in the ***!

Use your used GM slave if it only has 8000miles and shim properly or get an adjustable master cylinder.

AlexLSx7

I pulled it on with bolts. How would that crack it though? Its sitting at the back of the input shaft?

The GM slave i have is 92227219, will that still work with my setup?

AlexLSx7

So just managed to get the box off (in 30 minutes surprisingly) and found that the plastic that the bearing is sitting on is completely loose which is why the fluid is coming out.

I remember when putting It on it felt a bit loose and I think had been turned and popped off but I thought I had put it back on again.

Is It broken or is it just a case of pushing it back on again? I will obviously test bleed it before fitting the box again if that's the case as I can't see anything broke on it.

manzo81maro

If the trans doesn't go on straight, it puts uneven stress on the body of the slave cyl and I ended up with a crack on the back of the slave, near the inside diameter for input shaft...basically an edge/stress concentration there...

If you've gone that far, just take the slave back off and have a look for any cracks, or give the pedal a shot and see where fluid is coming from

Good luck man!

AlexLSx7

Thanks mate.

So i took the slave off and found that the seal was at the top which you can see in the pics on the shaft with the grease. I put the spring back on and pushed the bearing back on and it has popped back on and pushed the seal back down again.

Think its OK to run, or not worth it?

manzo81maro

That plastic part/seal has some kind of locking position, I remember messing with it but don't remember exactly how it went back on...
If you're not sure how to get the new slave back together, just run the old one if it only has 8000 miles
I ended up just re-using my slave with 15000kms on it...it works perfect

AlexLSx7

I got it back together but i just dont trust it so sending it back.

I guess the old one should be OK as Mcleod say that it should work with stock slaves right?

manzo81maro

Yes stock slave works fine with most if not all clutches, you'll just have to make sure you shim it to the proper clearance if need be or run an adjustable master cylinder...does McLeod include instructions/shims for adjusting clearance?

AlexLSx7

No, there weren't any instructions for clearances etc. I fitted the slave and the box back on last night and bled it, felt fine with the engine off so just need to run it and see how it is

stevieturbo

Never pull the box in with the bolts, if you have to do that something is wrong. The only time you might use the bolts is for the last 5mm or so, but ideally you could push the box in by hand.


And the only way you can have blown the seal out like that is from too much travel. For some reason your slave combo may be too short for the clutch setup.
That is never a scenario that should be able to happen though

With the parts re-installed get a cheap USB camera in there to see how far forward the bearing carrier is off the body of the slave.

BobH

iTrader: (4)

I have the same problem....Leaking new LUK slave in my 99.... Put it together could get to bleed port.. ordered a Speed bleeder, pressurized system to 12psi with bleed tool and it left a puddle. Great

Any recommendations besides the 300 dollar throw out bearings ? Lookin for a nice quality factory set-up slave

Thanks

BobH

AlexLSx7

I think the problem i had as somebody mentioned was the one I bought was too short so it pushed the bearing off the end when I was bleeding it. It wasn't a particular good quality piece either.

I just used the GM one I removed which only had 8k miles on it and it works perfectly.