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Will stock driveline parts hold if...

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Old 07-23-2004 | 02:59 PM
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Question Will stock driveline parts hold if...

I'm planning on getting an 01-02 WS6 next summer, and adding an ATI procharger running about 7psi of boost or less, with upgraded fuel pump, injectors, and cat-back exhaust system. I would estimate rwhp to be in the range of 435-455. I plan on replacing the stock tires (when they run out of tread) with Kuhmo 712 Supra's. I don't plan or have any intention of running the car at the track, other then maybe once or twice, with a mild launch. The car will not be meant for the 1/4. At times I will like to get on it while driving on the highway for short burst of power and speed.

My question is with this type of driving method, will my stock tranny, clutch, and rear-end be able to handle it? or would I need to consider replacing any of these items?
Old 07-23-2004 | 04:16 PM
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NO!
Old 07-23-2004 | 04:50 PM
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I see u are going to buy a car next year so i am assuming u have never driven an f-body. my clutch went at 3300 miles , trans at 13000 and been through about 5 rearend setups before it totaly broke for good.by the way 4 clutchs and my car never went down any drag strip or have any slicks on it.thats why everyone upgrades there drive train.
Old 07-24-2004 | 05:36 PM
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Actually this will be my 2nd F-body, I had a 99 Z28, that I sold when it had around 50k miles, then bought a Evolution VIII. The Z was driven hard but responsibly, and never had anything fail on me or go out, not even the clutch, and everything was stock. I really think it all depends on method of driving. I've read plenty of threads on this forum and other forums of people driving many miles with having 400-500whp with stock rear end and tranny and not having any problems. I do figure though the clutch will be the first to go if anything. I might as well drive it till those parts start to give out. Then replace them as neccessary. I'm not one for buying something when I don't need it. Plus in the event something fails, I will drive my other car until I get it fixed. If I'm going to end up spending the money for those parts anyway, might as well wait till I need them, only time will tell how long they will hold, which I'm willing to find out.
Old 07-24-2004 | 05:46 PM
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I have 77K on my SS and still have the original clutch and rear end. If you don't abuse it it will last. If you abuse it, it WILL BREAK! Don't bother with Kumho's there are better tires for just a little more!
Old 07-25-2004 | 01:13 AM
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The stock clutch definetly won't last long with that power. Once you upgrade the clutch the 10 bolt rear-end will grenade in no time, even without racing at the track. I had my SS for a year before I modded it. I installed a H/C and blah blah blah....I never dynoed the car but I would estimate it had about 370ish RWHP. I had the stock clutch and rear-end. The clutch exploded while I was racing on the freeway. I don't know how fast I was going but I pegged the speedo and then ran 5th gear all the way to rev-limiter set at 6500rpm. I upgraded the stock clutch to a SPEC stage 3. One night I was comming down an entrance ramp to the freeway and banged 1-2 and 2-3 then I speed shifted to 4th gear and blew the 10 bolt up. I ended up shreading half the teeth off the ring/pinion gears. I wasn't even running slicks or drag radials; I had the original Goodyear F1s that were bald. The stock clutch will help the 10 bolt live awhile but once you upgrade it the 10 bolt won't last.
Old 07-25-2004 | 07:09 AM
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14u2nv with that H/C package you should be pushing in excess of 425 RWHP. Power shifting is not exactly easy on the drive train. My engine with the addition of only headers puts out 365 RWHP and I haven't broken anything. I have a Spec Stage II Ceramic clutch and an Aluminium flywheel. I have seen Moser 12 bolts and Stage III clutches grenaded with less hp than I have. I do have a unique perspective in that I own a high performance shop and get to fix the local granaders cars. It's amazing how fast you can break things with aggressive street driving. If you drive these cars in a more or less normal manner, they will hold together quite well.
Old 07-25-2004 | 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SOM SS
14u2nv with that H/C package you should be pushing in excess of 425 RWHP. Power shifting is not exactly easy on the drive train. My engine with the addition of only headers puts out 365 RWHP and I haven't broken anything. I have a Spec Stage II Ceramic clutch and an Aluminium flywheel. I have seen Moser 12 bolts and Stage III clutches grenaded with less hp than I have. I do have a unique perspective in that I own a high performance shop and get to fix the local granaders cars. It's amazing how fast you can break things with aggressive street driving. If you drive these cars in a more or less normal manner, they will hold together quite well.
At that time I had a TPIS H/C and it was a very mild cam. I don't power-shift because that will destroy parts fast; I speed shift only. You don't really think he is going to bolt on a blower and not drive the car aggressively do you? Of course your driveline is intact....you have no serious mods and you don't race the car. Why would one spend their hard earned money on mods to increase the HP/TQ if they only use the car to go to church?
Old 07-27-2004 | 08:35 PM
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I also have a C5 with a 525 RWHP H/C car that has survived very nicely with the stock (ZO6) clutch. I don't baby my ZO6, but I also don't rag on it either, it's my daily driver! I just like having the Cobra/Viper eating HP there if I need it. Now it is true that I don't have any "serious" mods on my SS, but it does make 435 SAE net HP. That's not exactly Ford hp either. I could easily grennade the drive train in one good burn out.




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