themack56

iTrader: (70)

first of all if you have those to wires that are suposed to go on the clutch pedal switch to get the car started conected all the time then its not going to work, you need to get the switch and have it connected like that, the switch works when you press the clutch down and it connects those to wires together, when you depress and they get disconeceted, when you have your cruise control on and you step on the brake it turns off, imaging having your brake down all the time and shutting down your cruise off all the time thats how your runnin your setup you have to have the cables disconected and only conected when your starting the car or shifting into gears, when you got your cruise on and you shift into gears your cruise has to turn off, ive been researching this for months now and thats how many of people tell me it works

themack56

iTrader: (70)

you dont have to tear your whole interior, i have the harness sitting next to me and only three connectios go into the interior and thats easy, the rest is just engine wiring which is easy cause all connectios are on surface level, and then theres another peice that runs to the tranny which has the reverser lights, vss reverslockout, everything, but since you dont want to go this way

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

I'm not arguing your point, you've been researching it and have been told how it works. Well I dug around in this 2001 Z28 that had an M6 from the factory. I have my clutch pedal switch wired up so the car starts with the pedal down only and it's wired to the factory location. The only thing I don't have is the gray wire for the clutch pedal anticipation, in the diagram I posted it goes to C 32 on the pcm, C32 on my pcm has no wire in it. Plus all these wires I got off the 2001 were wrapped up in a 1 1/2" bundle of wires that go from one side of the car to the other. That plug I show a picture of has all the wires I'm missing. But even if I got the whole harness I'd be tearing a lot of interior out to get the missing wires in my car. Do you have any pictures?

tici

iTrader: (1)

You don't need to install a new wire, you can install the cruise control switch on the clutch pedal in series to that one on the brake pedal.
I did it and it works.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

That clutch pedal switch that activates with the pedal on the floor is only for the starter circuit. The switch on the top of the clutch pedal releases the cruise control, you want the cruise to release as soon as the pedal moves not when it hits the floor.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

I did that too, I got the factory wiring that comes with that harness that ties both clutch and brake pedal switches together.
Did you reflash your pcm to a from an A4 to M6?
I had my clutch pedal in with the automatic trans and the clutch pedal would disenagage cruise, now after the swap was complete and I reflashed an M6 program into my pcm it doesn't work like that.

themack56

iTrader: (70)

i wastn aware that it dosnt work once you reflash, im realy not concerned about cruise though i never use it but it would be nice to have like it came stick in the factory, just leave it the way it is and when you have time get an m6 wiring that goes insied and tear it up and put it together

M3EATER

Ok ... I'll step into this ....

Once you reflash to a 6-sp PCM, you will have that pin #32 looking for the switch that mounts up at the clutch pedal ... the one that mounts like a brake pedal switch ....... NOT the starter switch at the base of the clutch pedal travel.

The most simplistic method would be to wire pin 32 to ground This would mimic the clutch switch being closed and the cruise will work (assuming the diagram that 8a8mfh supplied is correct for the switch that we're looking for).

I makes sense that an automatic PCM may not have a wire here.

If we do just run this pin to ground, the cruise will stay on if you push the clutch in. You would just have to be aware of this. All of the old BMWs worked like this. They have a brake cut-out but not a clutch cut-out. I never have any problems driving them.

M3EATER

By the way ..... in looking at that diagram .... it looks like terminal 44 (C2) would be where we'd wire the Reverse Lock-out! Looks like power comes from the ENG SEN fuse ... through the solenoid .... then to term. 44 (C2).

Or

Just jumper off the wire right as it comes from the PCM ... and go to the solenoid ..... and supply power to the other side of the solenoid from any ignition source wire..

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

Thats what I've been trying to tell you guys, I got the wiring diagram from this thread IIRC and if it didn't come from here it came from the one in the automatic trans forum.

Like I said earlier Pin 32 goes to the gray wire on the clutch pedal position switch, and the black/wht wire from the switch joins to other wires of the same color deep in the bundle of wires, one of these being the blk/wht that goes to the ALDL connector.
And the reverse lockout solenoid goes to pin 44. These are the only two I care about, not concerned with cags.
So that would only be two wires to fish from the pcm, under the dash and to the rev solenoid and to clutch pedal switch.

Now..does anyone know how to remove that plastic pin and install a wire into the pcm harness?

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

In addition to the other stuff I found you could save time and trouble from running the clutch pedal neutral safety switch wiring under the carpet to the A4 shifter switch wire and instead wire it directly to the bulkhead that the red arrow points to. This is where I removed the factory M6 switch wiring plug from. The colors are the same. On the front you might notice two purple wires and wonder which one to wire it to, but on the back you will see they join together anyway.
M3EATER I hope you don't mind me using one of your pictures.

M3EATER

I haven't looked at the PCM pins as of yet. I'm going out of town, if you don't have it cleared up by next week, email me & I'll take a look at it and see if I can find the proper Pins.

I'll also be dropping the trans again ...... to install some spacers under the slave cylinder. While it's down I'll test the reverse lock-out wiring .... if nobody else has it done by then.

No problem doctoring the pics!

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

Well I got it all working tonight. I didn't want cags so I didn't bother with that.

If you want cruise control to work you need to put a pin in C1 32 and run the wire to the proper M6 clutch anticipation switch, the wire is gray. The other wire on the switch is black/white and gets spliced onto the same color wire on the ALDL connector. This is how the M6 cars are wired from the factory.

To get the reverse solenoid to work put a pin in C2 44, run this wire to the solenoid and the other side of the solenoid to a pink wire on one of the O2 sensors, this is also the same circuit it's wired into from the factory.

It would be best if you got a few spare pins from a spare harness, but if you don't have access to one take out and use pins C1 17 and C1 18.

If you go to a junkyard and get some pins you can also get wire plug for the reverse solenoid, cags off a '94 to '97 S series truck ABS unit. It's the same plug.

C1 is the PCM connector with the translucent blue plastic piece that helps hold the pins in place.
C2 is Red. They both have the same numbers just one is red and one is blue.

C1 32 and C2 44 shouldn't have wires in them, if you find wires in yours make sure you're not looking at C2 32 and C1 44.

To get the plugs out remove the translucent piece and just bend the clip over very slightly and pull the wire out, put a little silicone over the hole.
To put a pin in I used a small nail to poke a hole in the rubber then stuck the pin in place and put the plastic piece back on.
I even used a torque wrench on the PCM connectors, it says on the gray covers to torque them 70 inch pounds +/- 14 inch pounds. Be sure you peel the rubber seals off the PCM and put them in the connector before re-installing them.

tici

iTrader: (1)

I loaded a M6 program using LS1Edit. The program has been modified by Carputing to match my calibration number or it won't work.

I don't understand the problem of the cruise control: there is only one wire that goes to the brake pedal, then to the clutch pedal. It's only a matter of opening a circuit: either it's the clutch or the brake pedal, the PCM doesn't care which pedal did open it. Look at the electric diagram: both swithches are in series.

To have cruise control working properly you need the other (big) clutch pedal switch working (start switch). Sure you can jump it so you don't need to press the clutch pedal to start the engine, but then you loose the cruise control.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

It's a factory wiring diagram that I posted a picture of. I don't understand why they made M6 cars with a different means of cruise control deactivation. It clearly shows a clutch pedal anticipation switch and wiring thats only present in M6 cars.
I thought it was already there as there are more wires on the A4 brake pedal switch than a stock M6 car. And those wires worked even with the clutch pedal installed running the automatic transmission.
And AGAIN I DO HAVE THE BIG CLUTCH PEDAL SWITCH WIRED UP, it's not connected under the console anymore, it's connected to the factory M6 location and it works like it's supposed to. My cruise control works, and my reverse lockout works properly also.
In fact it works just as the owners manual says it does. It allows reverse engagement at speeds less than 5 mph. I can drive and push it over to reverse and right under 5 mph I can feel the solenoid energize and let go.
I'm pretty sure things are wired up to the proper locations.

themack56

iTrader: (70)

well last night i butchered my m6 harness and decide just to take off the pig tails and splice the a4 switch harness to the m6, and i also found out how to make my reverse lock out work, im jumpin a wire to an 02 sensor(to the pnk one to be exact then theres a light green and that one needs to be put in the pcm connectios cause the a4 dosnt have it, this is all so easy, im gonna try to find a way to fix the cruise so it can disengage when i press on the clutch this is probably gonna be hard, did you guys have any warning lights go off when you did the conversion?

themack56

iTrader: (70)

your information is correct for you year of car, since i have a 98, its harder cause 98 wiring was different then 99 and up, so i have to learn as i go.

8a8mfh

iTrader: (3)

I had 801 reverse inhibit control circuit malfuntion, 803 cags solinoid circuit malfunction, and after and hour of driving 704 clutch switch circuit malfunction.
This was before I installed the reverse solenoid and clutch pedal wiring to the PCM.

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

I am trying to finish mine and have a question about the wires on the steering column. There are two thin flat connectors and only one plug that looks like it fits. One conector is attached to the column and the other is loose. I should have marked them, but didn't.

Any thoughts?

Deeavi

iTrader: (16)

Never mind! I found it! My son had tucked the wire up out of the way.