Manual Transmission T56 | T5 | MN12 | Clutches | Hydraulics | Shifters

probably goin to do drill mod and bleed it

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Old 08-18-2005 | 11:28 AM
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Default probably goin to do drill mod and bleed it

i will probably do the drill mod and bleed the system tonight i understand the drill mod ok from installuniversty, but im not quite clear on how to bleed the system correctly? could someone give me some pointers, and any tips would be great thanks
Old 08-18-2005 | 11:42 AM
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i will probably just bleed the system instead of doing the drill mod
Old 08-18-2005 | 12:44 PM
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It tells you how to do it on Install University. You need to keep the reservoir topped off at all times, don't let it run dry. Open the bleeder screw, depress the clutch pedal, close the bleeder screw BEFORE you release the pedal. Repeat this numerous times then tighten the screw one last time and make sure the resevoir is full. Have fun getting to the bleeder screw it can be a real pain. I ended up just drilling a hole in my floorboard for easier access.
Old 08-18-2005 | 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by LightEmUpLs1
i will probably just bleed the system instead of doing the drill mod
LOL, you changed your mind pretty quickly. Taking out the master cylinder and installing back again can be extremely frustrating, especially getting that damn U-bolt back through the firewall. It would still be a good idea to do it though.

To bleed the system, you're going to need an extra person helping you out. Have your buddy in your car pump the clutch pedal a couple of times then hold the clutch pedal down, you'll be under your car while he's doing this looking for the hard to find bleeder valve. It's located on the driver's side of the bellhousing (tranny) at about the 10 o'clock position. You probably won't be able to see it, but it's there. It's a 7/16 socket if I remember correctly. You'll want to use a 1/4" breaker bar so you can crack open the valve and close it quickly. Ok, while he's holding down the clutch, you're going to crack open the bleeder valve, let the fluid come out, then close it back up. The clutch pedal should be pressed down this whole time, then when you close the valve, your buddy can release the clutch. Repeat this process until all your old fluid is bled out. Just remember to keep a close eye on the reservoir, do not let it run dry, or you'll suck air into the lines. It's a faily small container, so do the process about two times, then fill up the reservoir.

Once you get all the old fluid out, you can use the mityvac method to get any extra air bubbles out (you will have air bubbles). You can use one of the needle tips on the mityvac and stick it in the hole at the bottom of the master cylinder reservoir, just be sure the mityvac line has a bit of fluid in it before sticking it in the hole. Now, you want to hold the mityvac so the line is vertical and start pumping that sucker up to about 22 in.Hg. You'll see small air bubbles travel up the mitcyvac line. Just leave it like this until you get very few air bubbles, then release the pressure and close the reservoir up. To get extra air bubbles out of the system, pump the clutch pedal a couple of times, then do the mityvac method again, you'll probably see more air bubbles come out. You can repeat this method if you feel you still have more air in the lines, which you probably will. Good luck!
Old 08-18-2005 | 02:10 PM
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ok so is there gonna to be alot of fluid going everywhere? and what exactly is a mityvac?
Old 08-18-2005 | 02:11 PM
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The fluid is going to go right to the bottom of the trans case unless you put a hose on the end of the bleeder, which would be difficult seeing as it requires a socket to get to it. When you lower the car back onto the ground it will all seep out of it, so you may want to put a pan underneath.
Old 08-18-2005 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by LightEmUpLs1
ok so is there gonna to be alot of fluid going everywhere? and what exactly is a mityvac?
A mityvac is like a little pump you can use to bleed air out of a hydraulic system. You can buy it one at your local autozone for about $30, well worth the cash to me. You'll find it in the specialty tools section (pulley pullers, etc.)
Old 08-18-2005 | 06:10 PM
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Do The Drill Mod!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 08-18-2005 | 09:39 PM
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what exactly does the drill mod do?
Old 08-18-2005 | 09:55 PM
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DO THE DRILL MOD!!! When you shift it wont be as smooth as before as it lets the fluid flow faster. It will help you from burning up the clutch and makes the clutch engage/disengage quicker. Get a mighty vac to that is the best way to do it. You dont even have to pump the pedal at all if you have a mighy vac. When I went to the track before the drill mod the clutch would heat up and I would have to take a break between runs. After the drill mod I didnt have to worry about it at all. It will really help your launch and shifting faster. Its the best free (nearly free) mod in my opinion. Do a search on bushmans bleeding method thats what I used for directions (I hope I spelled his name right).
Old 08-18-2005 | 09:58 PM
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The drill mod did not do anything for my car.
Old 08-18-2005 | 10:01 PM
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keliente did you use a mighty vac? I dont think I spilled much fluid at all. I did have to empty the mighty vac a few times. The quick disconnect fitting that goes into the transmission/slave cylinder keeps the fluid from leeking out.
Old 08-22-2005 | 03:19 PM
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I lunched 2 trannies before I did the drill mod. Now I have no problems at all. THE DRILL MOD IS A MUST!!! imo




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