nahasapeemapetalon

iTrader: (9)

Lately my 6 speed has been acting up. I raced it this past weekend in the hot weather and yes i have headers and no i dont have my hydraulic line wrapped. I didnt know about this being i just bought the car.

My clutch slips in 3rd gear and up under load. I was told to check my fluid and yes it has inky stuff settled in the bottom. My question is how do i completely flush this system i have read how to bleed the air out with pumping hte clutch then cracking the 7/16" nut above the line going to the tranny. But how do i get rid of this other crap first besides dumping the master right? THe master is the resivoir behind the brake master right?? I am new to this.

Please give me your opinion


THANKS!

Phlip00WS6

iTrader: (7)

Hard way, but most effective is to take the tranny out and take out the slave and bench bleed it, since your clutch is slipping that wouldnt be a bad time to change the clutch. Or you can just pump the hell out of it with the bleeder open and run all new fluid threw it. More than likely it will turn black within the next week after that anyway. Mine pretty much stays black.

nahasapeemapetalon

iTrader: (9)

its a relatively new stage III spec clutch and pressure plate. Your fluid shouldnt be black....

Ill flush it and see if that is the problem.

B-RAD2

mines like that too.... i flushed mine and within 2 months it's black again

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

What fluid are yall using? I had this problem before and I got rid of it. I used a DOT4 and DOT5 fluid for the clutch and they both had black **** in the resivor and the clutch worked like ****. I flushed the whole deal with normal DOT3 (not synthetic) and Ive never had a problem since and the black stuff is gone. I did some reading before and IIRC the DOT5 fluid will eat rubber and thats what the residue was, the rubber mositure barier being eaten.

B-RAD2

should i use synthetic when i put my LS7 clutch in???

Summit2345

iTrader: (2)

i had the same problem with the clutch acting up so i replaced the fluid and it didnt help so i replaced the master cylinder and now its like new. later i took the old master cylinder apart and whole inside was gummed up with that stuff. Im assuming that all that black stuff was making mine stick. when i replaced mine i wraped the line and used wilwood high temp brake fluid.

Phlip00WS6

iTrader: (7)

Just dont use anything with silicone in it.

nahasapeemapetalon

iTrader: (9)

thanks guys-

im gonna try flush it tonight...either with a turkey baster or pump it and bleed it from the tranny.

its a 7/16" above where the braided line goes in right??

hope it works

nahasapeemapetalon

iTrader: (9)

Not to sound like a wimp, but flushing the fluid doesnt look easy at all the master is buried by the brake booster. And the bleed valve if im right is on the top of the tranny...i only had the car up about 8 inches that sucked so i didnt bother with that setup....
I had other things to do..my oil consumption problem.

What do u guys do, to flush this the easiest???
Is it a waste to take to a dealership? how much?

Summit2345

iTrader: (2)

the bleeder is not on top of the tranny its about 3 to 4 inches above where the line goes in for the slave there both on the driver side of the bell houseing. what i did to flush it was to just keep bleeding it to ensure that there was no posibility of air being in the system and just kept doing it until i saw new fluid

Krab

iTrader: (28)

Like Summit2345 said, the bleeder valve is at about the 10 o'clock position on the bellhousing if you're facing towards the front of the car. To clean the black stuff out, first suck out all the fluid in the reservoir (not in the little hole in the center though) and clean up the reservoir with a clean shop towel. Once clean, fill the reservoir up with clean fluid (make sure not to pump the clutch pedal before filling up the reservoir!), then bleed through the bleeder valve to get any old fluid out. Then you can bleed the system for any air bubbles. After you've done this, wrap the clutch line in heater hose and run it away from your exhaust. Your fluid should stay pretty clean after this.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Thats how I did it.

nahasapeemapetalon

iTrader: (9)

well guys-
That job isnt bad at all with a helper. U have to be a little bit nimble with your hand but my flush went well. The hydraulic fluid was black now clean.
BUT..it slips all the worse.
Needless to say the tranny will be coming out...i would guess its the pressure plate..they have a bunch of springs that could slip right? I did miss a shift b4 i went racing that could have weakened it.

Any good ways to take tranny out? Easy?
If its the pressure plate which is a stage III spec...what do i put back in?

Krab

iTrader: (28)

Tranny isn't real hard to take out, actually. Well, as long as you have an extra set of hands helping you out so you can control the tranny when it's coming down. Now prying the bellhousing from the block, that is a whole other story. I used a regular 4 ton jack with a piece of 2x4 and had an extra person helping me out. This was done with the rear tires on rhino ramps and the front up on jack stands.

steve-d

iTrader: (7)

If and when it's out, you may want to consider a remote bleeder line inserted in place of the stock extended bleeder. It'll make the chore much easier in the future.

Steve

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

Where would one pick up one of these?

BitViper

iTrader: (63)

[QUOTE=Country Boy]fluid will eat rubber and thats what the residue was, the rubber mositure barier being eaten.
QUOTE]

Thats what I was thiking

steve-d

iTrader: (7)

I have 'em available and have sent several out to others. I use one and they work great. I'll PM you w/details.

Steve

nahasapeemapetalon

iTrader: (9)

yea id be interested in how those bleeder lines work.
HOw do u turn the bleeder when its on there?