TEXtralia OZ700 Questions
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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TEXtralia OZ700 Questions
I just had a quick question, if I bought the TEXtralia OZ700 what else should I do when I do the clutch install? Like slave or master cylinder? Is billet steel the way to go? This would be on an 01 with 60k. Also how do you guys like their products, I've personally heard nothing but great things. Oh one more thing, should I do the drill mod while I'm at it? Thanks.
#2
12 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
IMHO:
Slave EVERY time the trans is off for clutch related repairs.
Master... not unless you have an 00 or earlier, the 01/02 already have the good hydraulics.
Drill mod.... absolutely! However, even though it's a pain, take the master all the way out. it's really the ONLY way to get the pin out easily and back in again, and IS the only way to get ALL the drill shavings flushed out. It also provides a chance to dump and clean the reservoir. Once you have the hose drilled, air or brake clean from the other end... yep, you NEED to press in on the seal, then plenty of fresh brake fluid (I use DOT 4 synthetic, just my preferences) to completely back flush the line. Put the line back on the reservoir, slip the lock pin in place, and then bleed the master OFF the car. Just raise the trans end of the hose to the same height as the reservoir and pour clean fluid in while pressing down on the seal end until you feel certain nothing but clean fluid is in the system. Then put the cap on the master. Reinstall in car, install trans with NEW, unmolested slave (DO NOT bleed, they come full and bled), and pop the line on.... and you won't need to bleed the system again. At least I didn't.
My opinion: most clutch install failures are a result of people being willing to spend 500 bucks on a clutch, 250 on install... and too cheap to spring for a new slave.
By the way... the throw on our hydraulic slaves is SO small, even a tiny bubble or a tiny bit of wear screws up the travel. Save yourself the aggravation: NEW slave, bleed master off the car, replace master if 00 or older, and drill mod!
As for billet: talk to them about your options and intended use.
Slave EVERY time the trans is off for clutch related repairs.
Master... not unless you have an 00 or earlier, the 01/02 already have the good hydraulics.
Drill mod.... absolutely! However, even though it's a pain, take the master all the way out. it's really the ONLY way to get the pin out easily and back in again, and IS the only way to get ALL the drill shavings flushed out. It also provides a chance to dump and clean the reservoir. Once you have the hose drilled, air or brake clean from the other end... yep, you NEED to press in on the seal, then plenty of fresh brake fluid (I use DOT 4 synthetic, just my preferences) to completely back flush the line. Put the line back on the reservoir, slip the lock pin in place, and then bleed the master OFF the car. Just raise the trans end of the hose to the same height as the reservoir and pour clean fluid in while pressing down on the seal end until you feel certain nothing but clean fluid is in the system. Then put the cap on the master. Reinstall in car, install trans with NEW, unmolested slave (DO NOT bleed, they come full and bled), and pop the line on.... and you won't need to bleed the system again. At least I didn't.
My opinion: most clutch install failures are a result of people being willing to spend 500 bucks on a clutch, 250 on install... and too cheap to spring for a new slave.
By the way... the throw on our hydraulic slaves is SO small, even a tiny bubble or a tiny bit of wear screws up the travel. Save yourself the aggravation: NEW slave, bleed master off the car, replace master if 00 or older, and drill mod!
As for billet: talk to them about your options and intended use.
#4
LS1 Tech Administrator
iTrader: (14)
Drill mod will make your clutch feel much lighter to the pedal than stock. An added bonus!
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2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2018 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 Pat G tuned.
LS1,LS2,LS3,LS7,LT1 Custom Camshaft Specialist For custom camshaft help press here.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
#6
10 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
Originally Posted by ForumMoto
How does the drill mod work?
To the original poster...I agree with whoever said to swap the slave while the tranny is out. It would be a total PITA to have to pull it all out again for just a slave cylinder
#7
10 Second Club
iTrader: (25)
Originally Posted by BYUNSPEED
do drill mod, replace the slave, upgrade the master to the 01-02 model if you have a 98-00.
FYI, textralia is NEVER overkill! Give me a call if I can help. Thanks.
FYI, textralia is NEVER overkill! Give me a call if I can help. Thanks.
Does Textralia recommend the drill mod for all of their installs? I do not plan any speed shifting. Thanks for the help.