After 15 months and 15000 miles, look what happened to my Textralia
06-10-2007, 03:16 PM
#1
After 15 months and 15000 miles, look what happened to my Textralia This was posted by me in March 07 on another site.
I was holding out with the intention of sending it back to Textralia.
But since Textralia has failed to take action to figure out why it failed, I have decided to post it on a site where it may get more attention.
What happened:
This clutch was installed on my car in Dec 2005 by Norris in Orlando.
Ever since I bought it, the clutch has not stoped squeaking for more than a day or two.
Lately, it had been doing some serious chattering. Drivablity was shot to hell.
I took it to the track in Dec 06, and blew the 3-4 blocker keys because the clutch would NOT disengauge and I forced it into gear.
Planned on a rebuild and decided to go to the LS7 clutch.
Well when we popped the tranny out I found loads of dust everywhere.
When the clutch came out it was a dust storm.
More dust than my mechanic buddy has ever seen on a clutch assembly.
What Textralia had told me about the chattering and squeaking problem was wrong.
They told me the clutch was not releasing enough graphite lubricant.
There was enough lubricant for a clutch orgy.
Well, the PP seemed to be ok, but the clutch material was worn off right up to the rivets.
The biggest thing is the flywheel. This thing is tore apart.
The groves in it are up to 3 mm deep and the surface of the metal is plagued with small cracks.
It looks like a snake's skin, the cracks in the surface.
I dont know if it was a defect in the material or an inproper install, but I have asked Textralia to take it back and analyse it.
They have not gotten back with me with any plans for such. I would not recomend them.
I was holding out with the intention of sending it back to Textralia.
But since Textralia has failed to take action to figure out why it failed, I have decided to post it on a site where it may get more attention.
What happened:
This clutch was installed on my car in Dec 2005 by Norris in Orlando.
Ever since I bought it, the clutch has not stoped squeaking for more than a day or two.
Lately, it had been doing some serious chattering. Drivablity was shot to hell.
I took it to the track in Dec 06, and blew the 3-4 blocker keys because the clutch would NOT disengauge and I forced it into gear.
Planned on a rebuild and decided to go to the LS7 clutch.
Well when we popped the tranny out I found loads of dust everywhere.
When the clutch came out it was a dust storm.
More dust than my mechanic buddy has ever seen on a clutch assembly.
What Textralia had told me about the chattering and squeaking problem was wrong.
They told me the clutch was not releasing enough graphite lubricant.
There was enough lubricant for a clutch orgy.
Well, the PP seemed to be ok, but the clutch material was worn off right up to the rivets.
The biggest thing is the flywheel. This thing is tore apart.
The groves in it are up to 3 mm deep and the surface of the metal is plagued with small cracks.
It looks like a snake's skin, the cracks in the surface.
I dont know if it was a defect in the material or an inproper install, but I have asked Textralia to take it back and analyse it.
They have not gotten back with me with any plans for such. I would not recomend them.
06-11-2007, 07:56 AM
#4
Hmm interesting. and depressing. Looks like pressure plate might be ok but of course you need new flywheel and clutch disc. Looks a lot like twin disc pics posted up awhile ago .That one was from arp bolts installed instead of stock bolts but the 0z700 can use arp bolts.
I have cartech that looks virtually identical to that clutch of yours and it had mabye 5000 miles no track use ,mabye a handful of street launches. Best I could figure on that one was that my modified master that they supplied was making the clutch slip all the time so it got burnt up. I posted pics of mine and very similar. Flywheel had same exact cracking and stuff. It was deeply scored. Pressure plate also deeply scored and disc was warped bad from heat and pads were in very bad shape. Clutch looked like it had 100,000 miles on it or like hundreds of track passes.
It was way way off warranty so just wrote it off and it was as said likely the masters fault.
There are several things that have to be done in clutch install. Loctite of pressure plate and flywheel bolts. Proper torquing. Brake cleaner on flywheel and pressure plate.Some clutches come with oil on these parts. Also you can have rear main leak and thats easy to get from the thing behind the pilot going into motor if you don't watch out or try to use some methods like toilet paper trick to get pilot out. Oil and clutches is not a good thing. Of course choosing to slip the clutch at track versus dumping will have a pretty big impact on clutch life. Slip easier on drivetrain harder on clutch and no slip harder on drivetrain easier on clutch.
15,000 miles of really hard track use is not that bad. But was your car subjected to really hard track use..how many passes,etc.
And maybe the newer tex are different discs or something? x pad versus z.etc.
I did talk directly to Peter once and he seemed great. I also sent emails to tex for instructions for my twin disc and never recieved anything. I told them to put instructions on their website but they haven't yet. I was also told that could get more street discs for my twin but saw no mention of that on the site or anywhere.
We have seen lots of guys running these things with good results and some have shown pics of them after removal and they looked pretty good. I think every flywheel is going to show some heat spotting and stuff but of course deep groves from the disc are not a good thing. I wonder why they dont' move away from the rivet designs as they always seem to trash the flywheel and pressure plates. They need to just use superglues or something.
I hope i have better luck with my new twin. I am not going to track car more than couple times but will do some high rpm clutch dump street launches.Also won't normally have more than about 600 rwhp except for very occasional times might go up as far as 850 rwhp. At that power level I have to worry about my trans and rear end and other things not just clutch. auto may be the final solution for me but I like driving manuals.
It would be nice if tex would get back on this forum a bit more .they seemed helpful.
But your clutch looks bad for sure. especially the disc.
I have cartech that looks virtually identical to that clutch of yours and it had mabye 5000 miles no track use ,mabye a handful of street launches. Best I could figure on that one was that my modified master that they supplied was making the clutch slip all the time so it got burnt up. I posted pics of mine and very similar. Flywheel had same exact cracking and stuff. It was deeply scored. Pressure plate also deeply scored and disc was warped bad from heat and pads were in very bad shape. Clutch looked like it had 100,000 miles on it or like hundreds of track passes.
It was way way off warranty so just wrote it off and it was as said likely the masters fault.
There are several things that have to be done in clutch install. Loctite of pressure plate and flywheel bolts. Proper torquing. Brake cleaner on flywheel and pressure plate.Some clutches come with oil on these parts. Also you can have rear main leak and thats easy to get from the thing behind the pilot going into motor if you don't watch out or try to use some methods like toilet paper trick to get pilot out. Oil and clutches is not a good thing. Of course choosing to slip the clutch at track versus dumping will have a pretty big impact on clutch life. Slip easier on drivetrain harder on clutch and no slip harder on drivetrain easier on clutch.
15,000 miles of really hard track use is not that bad. But was your car subjected to really hard track use..how many passes,etc.
And maybe the newer tex are different discs or something? x pad versus z.etc.
I did talk directly to Peter once and he seemed great. I also sent emails to tex for instructions for my twin disc and never recieved anything. I told them to put instructions on their website but they haven't yet. I was also told that could get more street discs for my twin but saw no mention of that on the site or anywhere.
We have seen lots of guys running these things with good results and some have shown pics of them after removal and they looked pretty good. I think every flywheel is going to show some heat spotting and stuff but of course deep groves from the disc are not a good thing. I wonder why they dont' move away from the rivet designs as they always seem to trash the flywheel and pressure plates. They need to just use superglues or something.
I hope i have better luck with my new twin. I am not going to track car more than couple times but will do some high rpm clutch dump street launches.Also won't normally have more than about 600 rwhp except for very occasional times might go up as far as 850 rwhp. At that power level I have to worry about my trans and rear end and other things not just clutch. auto may be the final solution for me but I like driving manuals.
It would be nice if tex would get back on this forum a bit more .they seemed helpful.
But your clutch looks bad for sure. especially the disc.
06-11-2007, 07:58 AM
#5
Oh couple more questions..do you have stock hydraulics or adjustable master?
And did you do the drill mod? My experience is the drill mod slows down the clutch and mabye causes it to wear out faster. I did the drill mod and have newest hydraulics.No shims nothing like that either.
And did you do the drill mod? My experience is the drill mod slows down the clutch and mabye causes it to wear out faster. I did the drill mod and have newest hydraulics.No shims nothing like that either.
06-11-2007, 10:35 AM
#6
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Textralia makes a great clutch....you bought a shitty OZ, and by the sounds of it, rode the clutch like a *****...
Step up to an Exoskel, and send that POS back to Text for inspection...or go buy a spec
E
Step up to an Exoskel, and send that POS back to Text for inspection...or go buy a spec
E
06-11-2007, 12:45 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by erikthegoalie
or go buy a spec
Haha that made me laugh!But with all seriousness, they need to hook you up with a new clutch. You sure it was installed right by Norris?
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06-11-2007, 06:18 PM
#8
I made 3 track passes with the clutch. Im not sure Norris installed it right, but all the bolts were in place and were not loose. I had the stock hydralics, new slave and no drill mod.
My LS7 clutch has been treating me right since March when I installed it.
My LS7 clutch has been treating me right since March when I installed it.
06-13-2007, 02:41 PM
#13
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i'd go with an ls7 clutch. it's OEM quality and has a great pedal. should last a lot longer than 15k miles.
www.ls1speed.com - they stock them i believe.
www.ls1speed.com - they stock them i believe.
06-13-2007, 04:33 PM
#14
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Originally Posted by erikthegoalie
i think he said he installed an LS7 in March....
**** spec....peace im out
**** spec....peace im out
06-13-2007, 05:29 PM
#15
The Tex is a great clutch, I think the question is how was it driven and would the LS7 handle the same level of abuse you gave the Tex. If it goes twice as long then I would think there is an issue with the Tex, but if the LS7 goes less (based on what I have read this will likely be the case) then you may simply find you are not getting as much service due to the way you use the clutch. I'm am not criticizing here, just stating that the 15K miles you got may be pretty good if they are hard clutch miles.
06-14-2007, 05:36 PM
#18
Originally Posted by BYUNSPEED
Hello, that is weird that Textralia has not gotten back to you yet about this. I just saw this post and just got off the phone with Textralia and Jarrod will look at this post.
Textralia also has noted that several people have complained about e-mails not being returned. Note that the old e-mail from last year does not work. The website address is www.Textralia.com.au NOT www.Textralia.com and the e-mail address is admin@Textrali.com.au NOT admin@Textralia.com.
Either way, they will get back to you on this ASAP.
If any customers that have this clutch has questions or problems, you can call me even if you did not buy the clutch from me. I am more than willing to help if I can.
Thanks!
Textralia also has noted that several people have complained about e-mails not being returned. Note that the old e-mail from last year does not work. The website address is www.Textralia.com.au NOT www.Textralia.com and the e-mail address is admin@Textrali.com.au NOT admin@Textralia.com.
Either way, they will get back to you on this ASAP.
If any customers that have this clutch has questions or problems, you can call me even if you did not buy the clutch from me. I am more than willing to help if I can.
Thanks!
06-14-2007, 09:20 PM
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it would be REAL nice if someone called me back. its only been around 3 weeks. seems customer service is great untill you have a REAL problem with the UNBREAKABLE clutch, then no one can answer a damn phone or call anyone back.
my trans is supposed to be back by the end of next week, if i don't have a f^cking clutch or atleast a phone call, i'm ordering a SPEC! then i will post a comparison of how much better the SPEC did.
sorry to hi jack, just had to vent.
my trans is supposed to be back by the end of next week, if i don't have a f^cking clutch or atleast a phone call, i'm ordering a SPEC! then i will post a comparison of how much better the SPEC did.
sorry to hi jack, just had to vent.