Redlinez

iTrader: (5)

This is my 3rd time "helping" one of my techs pull my trans. Does everyone split the gear box from the bellhousing? We didn't the first time, but did the 2nd time. Lastly, is there a special tool to release the slave cylinder braided line? I think we managed to get it off after a while, but it wasn't pretty. I'm installing the LS7 kit and a new updated slave. Not sure if it came with or needs the spacer. I planned to reuse the flywheel bolts unless ya'll think otherwise.

kenp

iTrader: (9)

I have always removed the transmission from the bell housing first.

I've never removed the slave so I don't know for certain. It probably does take a tool similar to the one to remove the fuel line from the fuel rail.

Don't know about the spacer.

Flywheel bolts are cheap but they can probably be reused.

brad8266

iTrader: (23)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/779117-clutch-swap-trans-removal-sticky.html

I use a flat screwdriver to release the braided line from the slave.

Hugger Z

iTrader: (4)

Yes it is MUCH easier to remove the gearbox from the bellhousing.

To unplug the slave just push that plastic clip down towards the slave and the line should pop right out. That plastic sleeve releases the metal retaining prongs in the hydraulic line.

No spacer is needed for the LS7 clutch. And you can reuse your flysheel bolts. Just make sure to re-loctite them. I belive we used blue on those if I remember correctly.

kenp

iTrader: (9)

The new oem bolts come with a blue thread locker on them.

Hugger Z

iTrader: (4)

Yes they do. I put new ones on when I swapped my clutch this past spring. But then a month later my crank freeze plug let loose and I had to disassemble and rebuild it all again. And re-applied the blue loctite to the same bolts.

chromeplated500

iTrader: (10)

much easier to get the trans from the bell housing first... you can slide it back far enough to get the slave unbolted and slid off..

Redlinez

iTrader: (5)

Cool. I'll reuse the bolts and remove it in two pieces. I saw only one thread that says 75 ftlbs on flywheel bolts, 55 on pressure plate, 35 on bellhousing, and 37 on gearbox. We're doing it this afternoon. How hard is the rear main to get out while I"m there?

kenp

iTrader: (9)

I had to remove the rear cover and punch the seal out from the inside. You get a rear seal gasket with the rear seal anyhow.

Redlinez

iTrader: (5)

We removed the pilot bearing with a special slide hammer tool. Didn't mess with the rear main. These clutches don't seem to have much engagement duration, very short and quick, like a stock clutch. I guess as long as it holds power, it doesn't matter. I've been driving like a grandpa, no WOT shifts yet and haven't gone over 3200 rpms either.