Knacker

Everything I see points to Hurst or B&M, but whats the difference? They cost the same, look similar, and both claim to be the best of course. Does it matter?

PewterScreaminMach

iTrader: (7)

And Pro 5.0 wasn't on that list? The only B&M Ripper shifter I've driven is in my Dad's car and it's notchy and clunky as hell. I can't stand it. My brother and I both have a Pro 5.0 and they are great but a little noisy. They also clink loud when they hit the stops (if that matters in the slightest).

The stock Hurst that I had on my car for a while was my favorite for daily driving because it was such a soft shifter and I actually liked the feel of the longer stick (wow, that sounds super gay...).

I say if you race, Pro 5.0, if it's mostly a street cruiser, Hurst.

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

I like my Hurst Billet Plus. The handle is really high compared to a Pro 5.0 though so if you want something low get the Pro 5.0.

AiDRocks

iTrader: (13)

Had a B&M, it was alright. Switched to Pro 5.0 and like it more.

SladeX

Tried the pro 5.0, noise got to me, sounded ratchety. Felt good as a shifter though.

Have the Hurst Comp Pro, feels pretty good and has adjustable spring settings for the 2-3 shift.

T-56 has internal stops, readjust your pro 5.0 if you find it "clinks".

transAm-98

iTrader: (1)

The trick to not having a noisy Pro 5.0 is to NOT cut the boot that goes around it. The instructions tell you to cut the #6 boot but you can still get it on without cutting it. That's how I did mine and it is just as quiet as stock.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

While I agree with you that the T56 has internal stops...the purpose of the adjustable stops on most (all?) of the aftermarket shifters is to protect the internal ones from damage. If you shift HARD and hit an internal stop hard, you can break it (ask me how I know). I adjust the stops on my Kirban so they're JUST loose enough to not click in every day driving, but if I shift hard, I put the shifter into them and they stop me before I do any damage to the trans. The instructions that came with my shifter said put the shifter in 3rd gear, and snug the stop up with a piece of paper between the stick and the stop bolt as a shim (keep the paper moving so you feel when it drags) then lock the stop down and repeat for 4th gear and the other stop...what have adapted myself to doing, that has continued to work well, and be quieter, is put the shifter in 3rd, tighten the stop in with my fingers until it touches, then back it off 1 flat on the hex (1/6 of a turn) and lock it down and repeat that for 4th...I haven't broken a tranny since I started using shifters with stops...I blew that 3/4 synchro to pieces a couple times before using a shifter with stops...and my datalogs show that I shift faster now than I ever did when I broke the trans. Mind you, this is all in my LT1 Caprice that I put a T56 into when I decided the 4L60-E sucked and should be thrown in the woods...but the insides of the LS1 T56 are the same once you get past the front plate and slightly longer input shaft (I've also rebuilt those for a few friends who broke them in the same manner, and they also stopped breaking them once they began adjusting their stops properly)...I haven't broken the one in my 2000 Camaro and I don't expect I will...since the day I brought it home, the first thing I did was back it into the garage, take the console out, take the stock shifter off and throw it in the trash can, bolt a Kirban on, and adjust it's stops...I've put 23K miles on it since then (last weekend of August 2007...I drive a LOT) and it is still perfectly fine. The fluid came out clean when I changed it 15K miles ago...I expect it will come out clean when I change it in another 5K as well.

My vote is for Kirban...lesser known brand (unless you're a Turbo Buick guy), but hell of a shifter for the same price...MUCH MUCH quieter, excellent feel for a daily driver, and very precise and confidence inspiring when you're racing.

Saladbar

iTrader: (2)

I'll second the kirban vote.

Doesn't have the "stiff" feel of the other shifters. In fact, it was as soft to shift as the stocker ~ just much more precise.

Shockwave179

iTrader: (7)

I think the Kirban shifter isn't being made anymore but I could be wrong.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

That'd be a bummer...I need another one for another car.

SSCamaro2000

I tried to order on a few months ago from new era and they told me that they quit making them. So I got the B&M... maybe I should have got the Pro 5.0 they seem pretty popular here.

Mike454SS

iTrader: (4)

Yeah...I really don't like the B&M...maybe I'll take my Kirban apart and makemyself a couple on the CNC (working for Haas certainly has it's pluses).

SladeX

Something is up when you shift hard enough to bust up the stops. I can powershift fast enough to make the 2-3 shift scream at the tires. It doesn't take 200lbs of force to get it into gear, just finesse and speed.

johnnydje

iTrader: (12)

Have the hurst billet,i like it,but was wondering if anyone has the lou's short arm on thier's

ProjectCamaro

iTrader: (26)

I do, I have actually put the Hurst shifter and the Lou's short stick on all of my Camaro's. The throw is extremely short but once you get use to it you'll love it. I will never own an FBody without this combination.

taner

iTrader: (6)

they both suck, put in a Pro 5.0 and you will never look back!

LS1crazy01

iTrader: (14)

Man this is an easy one Pro 5.0 all the way! Do a little search and every poll about witch shifter is always one by the Pro 5.0. I dont think it makes any more noise then any other shifter I've seen in an F body. Its well worth the money and since I put mine in I never missed a gear, nock on wood........

mcano

Hi all, just wanted to say that I build my own Short Shifter. It has 27% less travel and it works like charme. The positive side of all this is that it cost me around 10$ to build, this is without counting the MOMO shifter **** of course.

LS1Silverado05

iTrader: (41)

I have had the Hurst Billet, and the Factory Hurst. I am now running a Factory Hurst with a Short stick.. I love it. Gas can stay in the floor if I want and I can nail the shifts everytime. (Not that its a good idea from a longevity standpoint...but The factory Hurst is doing me good. )

Gauge

iTrader: (3)

I had the factory Hurst shifter, and I liked it. I read a lot about the aftermarket shifters and decided to go with a Pro 5.0. I can't really say that I shifted any better with it. It was actually worse until I got used to it. The only reason I keep it is because I don't want to re-learn the Hurst. I think for me it's just all about what I'm used to. It's probably a better shifter overall.

I did a lot of research before buying, and here is what I found:

1) Almost no one likes the B&M over the Pro 5.0. Some people might trash talk the 5.0, but those people owned a B&M and probably haven't even tried a 5.0. They just don't want to admit that they didn't buy as good of a shifter. I hate people like this.
2) There were a TON of people who switched from the B&M to the Pro 5.0 and loved the 5.0 better.
3) I read about two people who switched from Pro 5.0 to B&M. Both of them went back.
4) When I did this research, the Hurst Billet wasn't out yet. I've read a good deal about it, and it sounds like a LOT of people like it, too.

If I were buying today, I'd try a Hurst Billet and Pro 5.0 to see which I preferred because neither gets many negative reviews. I've never had a chance to try a Hurst Billet, myself.