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Old 12-09-2008, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by halucinator
Did you race him from a dig or a roll?
Who cares ais a. He got his *** whooped!
Old 12-09-2008, 02:05 PM
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Blake, are the 3000k really worth it for foglights? I was thinking about going with a matching set (heads and fogs) There is a bit of a cool factor with the yellow fogs, but i am thinking that its mostly a european look.

I read over on SVT performance that anything more than 6k and you are actually losing the amount of visible light being produced. Is that what you were saying earlier?

On a side note, i just found a guy that just installed the suspension that i am looking at. He has dropped 1/2 sec over his stock suspension with no other mods. I am thinking that with tires gears and suspension i may be closer to a full second off my 1/4 time.
Next season is gonna be a blast with all these faster cars in town!
Old 12-09-2008, 02:07 PM
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Would anybody recommend a good welder for subframes connectors that is local? I have partial bolt ins, but need full weld ins. PM me if needed
Old 12-09-2008, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowr w/o Blowr
Would anybody recommend a good welder for subframes connectors that is local? I have partial bolt ins, but need full weld ins. PM me if needed

Bill Davis
Old 12-09-2008, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by halucinator
Must really need a driver mod. Top end they aren't that great but out of the hole with awd helps. I doubt he would have ever EVER gotten close to Ben though.
Sorry, I don't care the driver, if he can launch an Evo on street tires well enough to get past me on 275 555Rs in a 2700 lbs car with good suspension, he's doing pretty good already. Not to mention I'm light enough he's not staying anywhere ahead of me for more than a few MPH.
Old 12-09-2008, 02:56 PM
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hey whats goin on guys
Old 12-09-2008, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowr w/o Blowr
Blake, are the 3000k really worth it for foglights? I was thinking about going with a matching set (heads and fogs) There is a bit of a cool factor with the yellow fogs, but i am thinking that its mostly a european look.

I read over on SVT performance that anything more than 6k and you are actually losing the amount of visible light being produced. Is that what you were saying earlier?
3000K fogs are nice if you drive in shitty weather because oncoming drivers can see them very well. That's why they do them on the European cars. But yes, it's really a Eurotrash thing. The visibility with the yellow fogs is WAY better on a wet road vs. the white/blue light though. I mostly did them becasue I thought it looked cool.

Also, yes, that's what I was saying. MAX light output is at 4300K and it drops from there. The difference from 4300K to 6000K isn't a lot (like 8-9%) but above that it drops off quickly. Keep in mind that any HID setup is going to be 200-300% more powerful than your stock lights, so a few percent off of "best case" is still much brighter than stock. 6000K is what most people in town have I think? Nate, Ben, BB, Ricky Martin, Drew and I all have it I'm pretty sure.
Old 12-09-2008, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by blackz6sp
Bill Davis
+1 on davis ---he is a perfectionist!!!!
Old 12-09-2008, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by halucinator
Must really need a driver mod. Top end they aren't that great but out of the hole with awd helps. I doubt he would have ever EVER gotten close to Ben though.
i killed him and cobb on 69 that nite where he about ran me off the road...that mr is nothing...8+cars ohhh that was fram a dig....ben would not even waste the gas on him...would not even be close 14+ cars
Old 12-09-2008, 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowr w/o Blowr
Would anybody recommend a good welder for subframes connectors that is local? I have partial bolt ins, but need full weld ins. PM me if needed
pm sent.
Old 12-09-2008, 04:13 PM
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Thanks Joe!
Old 12-09-2008, 06:38 PM
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In tank fuel system:









It's dual walbro 255 lph (with check valves) into 3/8 fuel line into aeromotive y-block into -8 AN which then upsizes to my -10 main fuel lines after the bulkhead. I haven't finished the wiring for the second pump (activated at 4 psi of boost with a hobbs switch).
Old 12-09-2008, 07:24 PM
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I like that Blake, I may have to hit you up for some help or just some pics when I get to that point which I imagine would be in april some time at the rate I'm going
Old 12-09-2008, 08:35 PM
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Blake,

Certainly not bad.....for a ricer.

Did you test the pump I sold you?
Old 12-09-2008, 10:48 PM
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Blake what hose are you using there ? let me know size and type asap Might have something for you
Old 12-10-2008, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by b_ver_plezer69
+1 on davis ---he is a perfectionist!!!!
That's who will probably weld mine on in the early spring!! I've got them already out in the garage along with the rest of the suspension parts I got for my winter project. How much does he normally charge to weld-in subframe connectors? PM me if you have to if you can't post it.
Old 12-10-2008, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by red01camaroz28
That's who will probably weld mine on in the early spring!! I've got them already out in the garage along with the rest of the suspension parts I got for my winter project. How much does he normally charge to weld-in subframe connectors? PM me if you have to if you can't post it.
PM sent.
Old 12-10-2008, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Killer Klover


Blake what hose are you using there ? let me know size and type asap Might have something for you
the piece in the tank?

It's just some spare -6 AN I had laying around. The main feed is -10 to the rails -8 between the rails and then -6 back to the tank (with the -6 you see there for the in tank return to get the fuel back below the level in the tank to prevent splashing). I have a few types (Russell, Summit, Aeroquip, BMRS) but I think the in tank hose is Russell.

What do you have in mind?
Old 12-10-2008, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by digitalsolo
the piece in the tank?

It's just some spare -6 AN I had laying around. The main feed is -10 to the rails -8 between the rails and then -6 back to the tank (with the -6 you see there for the in tank return to get the fuel back below the level in the tank to prevent splashing). I have a few types (Russell, Summit, Aeroquip, BMRS) but I think the in tank hose is Russell.

What do you have in mind?
HOLY ****!!!! ARE YOU FUELING A LSX OR A DC10?? THAT IS MAJOR FUEL
Old 12-10-2008, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by b_ver_plezer69
HOLY ****!!!! ARE YOU FUELING A LSX OR A DC10?? THAT IS MAJOR FUEL
LOL. I had the -10 hose already, and the uber fittings on the intank is a combination of stuff I had, and me clicking the wrong button when I ordered the fittings. I spent WAY more than I wanted to on intank bits, but hey, next system I do (Beast) we'll be able to do it a LOT cheaper.


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