ss1275

finnaly got the tb back.. looks 10 times bigger then when it left... just wanted to see if i could get some feedback on people out there that have gotten thiers done... hp gains, throttle response stuff like.. thanks

99LS6SS

iTrader: (4)

I ported mine my self and did the bump stop mod. Idk how much power gains were but i could tell a difference in how it ran

qwk93ta

iTrader: (13)

I had mine done by New Era and I could tell my car had better throttle response, have no idea if it made any more HP.

unit213

It probably leaned the tune out a little.

MonmouthCtyLS7

iTrader: (6)

Before the 85mm I ran a ported one. I couldnt believe the throttle responce/power differance over the stocker...great mod for little cost.

Squirts11

iTrader: (14)

Some people mention a HUGE improvement in throttle response, but myself, it might have just been the placebo effect. Every mod helps though.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

I've ported quite a few for guys and they've always at least mentioned increased throttle response.

I dyno tested a stocker against the very first throttle body I ever ported. Two runs for the stocker, and then 2 more with the ported one. The place was suppose to email the graph with the pulls but never did. However, the gains were between 6-7rwhp and 5-6rwtq.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

great simple mod.

nice increase in response and at least some power increase.


what most people don't realize is you can take the TB to a machine shop and in 15min they can throw it on a lathe and machine that inner lip off nice and easy and smooth.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Yes, you could put it in a lathe, but you would have to use a 4 jaw chuck, and indicate it in. That's more trouble than it's worth when there is a LOT more to do with porting a throttle body than just removing the ridge in front of the blade, and you can't use a conventional lathe to remove the rest of the material from the throttle body either. It's not a uniform design and requires either a cnc program or doing it by hand.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

not true

3 jaw chuck, inside the rear of the TB, behind the blade.

set the end stop a fraction before the bit hits the blade-pin (bar in the center...name?)

just have to turn it slowly since its out of balance. but its aluminum so as long as you don't cut to much at a time, its fine.

from the time i clamped it in the chuck to the time i pulled it out was less than 30min...and i'm not very fast at setting it up.

i realize there is more than just that ridge...but that's A LOT of the restriction. the rest can be done with a die-grinder.

ss1275

yeah i can definitely agree with those who say that throttle response was kicked up a notch .. but then again it might be the placebo affect.. haha.. thanks guys appreciate the input.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Yes, you could hold it from the inside with a 3 jaw, but you'd need to be very careful as the material beneath the ridge is thin, and if it's not taking the material out evenly, you could wind up busting through in one place and not have the ridge completely removed in another. That's why I would indicate it in, just to be safe.

So your saying you didn't disassemble the throttle body prior to chucking it up? It's VERY simple and I suggest doing that then doing a thorough cleaning before reassembly.

99LS6SS

iTrader: (4)

Yea the area under the ridge is very thin. I actually cut all the way through with the bit I was using so I had to go through with some epoxy and fill the hole from the inside and the outside, then smooth it with a tiny sanding wheel on a dremel. I noticed a difference in throttle response and at WOT it ran smoother, but idk about power gains. 6-7 hp and 5-6 tq would seem about right.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

why would you not be taking the material out evenly? its centered on the bore of the TB. and the gasket surface was FLAT against the face of the chuck.

probably more accurate than doing it by hand.

didn't see a reason to disassemble it. i plugged the holes in the side to keep shavings out. other than that it went really easy.

in the end i had a SMALL lip left...what was left of the BIG ridge that you're trying to remove....it was maybe .010" worth. i left that as "good enough" and just smoothed it with some sanding paper.


meh...to each his own...

you guys spend hours doing yours...or spend $100-150 for them professionally.

i spent 30min working on it with my dad (he's the machinist in the family).

potat-oh....pot-ah-toe

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

$100-150? It's $65 from Damien or the silverghost.

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

Take any size round stock, put it in the lathe and turn it down. Remove it and cut the end off where all you have is the machined part left. Remove the burs and re-install it in the chuck. Take an indicator and check to see how true it runs. Depending on the chuck brand and condition of it, it could be out a decent amount, and it won't have anything to do with the shaft.

I'm not trying to pick on you, I'm just answering your question.

As you said, to each his own

TurboZ28408

iTrader: (18)

how do you take the shaft out ? i wanted to take apart an extra TB i got so i can get it powdercoated. thanks

BriancWS6

iTrader: (18)

I replied to your PM.

teke184

iTrader: (5)

Brian

i agree with you that there IS a tolerance to consider

....but you're saying that the few thousandths is a bigger margin of error than grinding something by hand??!!!

anyway....

99LS6SS

iTrader: (4)

i cut through mine cuz i was usin a dremel