owlpuff

I just bought a new smexy Trans Am. yey, owned a 02 v6 for 5 years, finally got the real deal.

2000 ws6 w/ 59k miles a4
vin: 2G2FV22G7Y2146430

#1 cant quite figure out if i got a ls1 or lt1, i found the post talking about vins, rpo codes and what not, nothing in there shown how to tell.

#2 engine code states cylinder 7 is misfiring, i did a half *** tune up mainly because of the 10* weather outside and the hatred for cold. but i changed the right side spark plugs and wires, left side still old ( #3 ) yet the code is still there, what else could cause it? *note* when i pulled the other 3 plugs, they were gritty oily and looked like old plugs, #7 plug was somewhat dry ( presuming #7 is the plug closest to the driver )

#3 what is best way to get to passenger side plugs!?!?! I heard three things which all suck.. drain coolant uninstall AC pipes... Drop the engine... Cut hole in wheel well... whats the great 4th option??

#4 assuming a $300 a month budget, what would be the best performance route to increase power without totally sacrificing mpg, it is still a daily driver and i take vacations home which is 2.5k round trip ( i already have a lid planned for next month, tune up and repairs were this month, past that i donno )


Thank you for reading my awkward post
~ Mr. Owl

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

You have an LS1. 98' and up cars have the LS1. And no one would swap in an LT1 into that car.

Best way to get to the passenger side plugs is undoing the coil packs. You can get the furthest back plug from under the car, I have done it from top and from under. Under is much easier. Do not drop the engine to install spark plugs, holy crap LOL.

I have full bolt ons and a tune. I bought each bolt on step by step. CAI, LID, Ported Throttle Body, LS6 intake, Headers, Catback, then a tune. No bolt on will decrease gas mileage except headers without a tune. Running headers without a tune will cause you to run rich, hence crappy mpg. But once you get a tune you'll be set to go. I get the best mpg I've ever gotten with full bolt ons and a tune. 31mpg hwy

I don't know about your #7 misfire, someone will chime in on that.

For your info...
LT1...




LS1...

owlpuff

Thanks blue knight ill open my hood tomorrow and make a plan for next warm day xD

my rough idea:

March: Lid + interior
April+May: Intake ls6 or equivalent? (I'm seeing claims of better for same price)
June-August: Exhaust ( open to ideas, and electric cut out, good or bad? )
Sept+October: 3800 Stall
Nov: ?
Dec: ?

plus any ideas on tweaks i could do to help out along the way?

randy129

iTrader: (5)

What are thinking of running instead of the LS6 intake?

owlpuff

Shoot i should have bookmarked it... but i was clicking the sponsors on the side ->

and i saw one claiming the ls6 intake gave a rwhp increase of about 16 hp cost around $800 and a shinny aluminum (not really my taste as i would then have to clean it alot >_< ) one made by FAST was claiming a 25 rwhp gain for around $560

Either way im trying to get best band for my bucks. Im a computer programmer not a gear junkie xD


*I am working on a high in features carputer on the side, started it for my v6 but this has given me the extra motivation to finish... will share when completed also might need help interfacing the car's cpu to a computer... but that's later, I'm still writing the gui

randy129

iTrader: (5)

Bang for the buck might be a used LS6 intake for around $300. They're for sale in the classifieds section here all regularly. Good luck with the carputer.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

LS6 intakes are around $300, and i'm pretty sure FAST's are more than $560, and aren't going to give huge gains over an ls6 with a boltons car.

I would do lid/exhaust/ls6/tune if you're trying to keep it a DD. I would also look into suspension (depending on what you're into). Good shocks/sways will help!!!! A cutout would be cool, but don't expect $300 to buy headers/catback/y pipe/cutout....unless you JUST want a cutout.

Otherwise, there's free mods, but the only one I think is worth it is a P&P throttle body, which can be done urself or you usually can one for $50 (+ your TB of course).

Oh yeah, btw, a 3800 stall I think is a little high for a DD. I would go like 3200 or something, but there's a lot of people that know more about auto's than me.

Hope this helps!

owlpuff

Been doing alot of reading around and i realized my 'focus' as far as power was off, majority of the things i was reading was strip oriented. I am a poorly maintained back roads loving person. i have a few favorite roads out here not too far from my house and the weaknesses i learned are my rear end tends to slide on some the turns ( under steer? ) is this because of the tires i run or down-force... or even the suspension? None the less, love the ws6 way more than my v6 xD i feel comfortable 5-15mph more on most the turns on a well known road minus the 'drifting feel'

Reading the road race forums, i see alot about tranny coolers and power steering coolers that the strip guys don't talk to much on, new pumps also talked alot about. Only thing is most them are not driving F-bodies, let alone the ws6 package which has suspension upgrades...



so my new questions would be:

#1 What things do i need on a 2000 ws6 bird to increase road driving abilities

#2 still have my 'cylinder 7 misfire' my idle allows me to feel it, big rough huffing feel that doesn't go away till about 1.2k rpm..

#3 anyone know of closed road courses in/near Missouri?

#4 whats a good aftermarket alternator

badbird5.7

iTrader: (11)

to question 2 check your coil, to question 1 better suspension(shocks,spring,lca's,panhard bar,subframe connector,ect..) question 4, i would just find a place that rebuilds alternators and just have your stocker amped up.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

#1. Agreed, suspension is key. For crappy roads, I'd recommend shocks, sways, and a PHB for sure. Good shocks really help the handling on these cars, Koni's are very good shocks and will greatly help the feel. For sways, Sam Strano makes a set of 35/22's that should help flatten out cornering, and make your car handle more predictibly. As far as your rear in the corners, a good pan hard bar will strengthen that and allow you to correct your position if you decide to lower. This should help it feel more planted in the corners, especially with imperfections.

Stock fbody brakes can be easily upgraded with some good pads, rotors, and some fresh fluid. Hawk HPS, any blanks (Brembo, even Duralasts have gotten good reviews), and some dot 4 fluid will help your braking a lot.

How much of a priority is power? A lid, exhaust, LS6 intake, and a tune (mail order is fine) wont hurt your DD'ing at all and will wake the car up and make it sound nice Also, for an auto, a stall will really help with acceleration also.

For 2, 3, 4, I don't know, lol

owlpuff

power for acceleration is much more priority than power used for top speed, if that makes much sense.

as for coil.. would i test it by swapping the 5 and 7 coil and see is 5 then misfires and 7 is good? Or do they not work like that xD all the coils look the same to me....


99 formula, i like all of which you said for upgrades, what should be my priorities though as far as which ones to change first. military pay is crappy so my budget is somewhat low xD


and whats the stance on manumatics? i found a site saying it can be done with a computer swap on the a4's transmission. Personally i enjoy the control of a manual but after 24+ hour shifts some days, i do not have the brain power to shift gears or the will for the matter, which is what puts my aim to an automatic

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Well, by power I meant the power you want, lol. I'm not really talking about high speed runs or anything, I guess I meant more for acceleration.

And, priorities depend on your priorities. Is there any 1 thing you want to improve before everything else? (acceleration/cornering/braking) If it were me, I'd do suspension, then intake/exhaust, then a tune (mailorder is fine with a bolton car, although I don't know what's involved for tuning for a stall).

However, I have a M6, and most auto people will tell you a stall is your first upgrade.

But once again, what are YOUR priorities?

EDIT: rereading your post from earlier, I'm assuming your priority is cornering....Koni 4/4's or 4/3's would be my first pick, if you can spring for them. www.stranoparts.com is having a special

owlpuff

The most important things to me first would be handling, I like to have solid grip on sharp turns, so anything that would help me hug the roads better is priority



*side note* Weather here is super cruddy. I was wondering is it uncommon to put some truck swampers on a F-Body when there is deep slush/snow/ice everywhere? I was just wondering, cause if my friend with a 2 wheel drive ford ranger can manage the roads semi decent with just generic stock tires yet i cant even get up a small hill without sliding back down it half way up with my street tires..... ( even sumitomo 'all weather tires' on my v6 have semi hard time ) would it work?


yes i know my grammer is horrible... im tired

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

lol, no big deal!

Shocks/sways are the first priority then. As far as tires, you can always get a different set of wheels with snow tires on them and swap when the weather calls for it. You can probably find another set of stockers cheap on the FS/FT area.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

lol, just noticed your edit up there. I don't know much about auto transmissions, there's another spot on the forum (auto transmission) that should have a writeup there for you to read

98camaro28

iTrader: (21)

For power (in this order):

Lid
Catback
Long Tube Headers
LS6 manifold
Tune

A converter will really wake it up off the line, but that can get pretty costly.
Gears will also really help your accel but will hurt fuel economy.


Susp.:

Konis with Strano springs
Strano sways
Panhard bar
Sub Frame Connectors

^^It will handle like a dream with those mods.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

All good, but i;d say stock springs with the way he described his roads

90TSiAWD

A stall converter will net you the most gains over any of that not in power but E/T.

owlpuff

i don't care for ride quality, have comfy leather seats and a large **** to make up for it..... so whichever spring will give better grip in the occasional potholes is what i would need ( looks to the gurus )


On topic of exhaust.. Catback vs true duals.... ( either one i still would like to install an electric cutout, or is that a bad idea? ) What are pros and cons of each?

90TSiAWD

Cons for true duals would be ground clearance and routing them so you can still have tips but would give you a slight gain over the CB.

Electric cutouts are cool but I hear that the electric motors will die in them after awhile. If I had the cash to throw down on one I would get one on my car.