linebacker50

I just put a 224r cam with 580 lift. I sent the ecu in to Texas speed to get a tune. I have a auto ls1 and I get it back today and go for a drive And the damn thing wants to drive itself. Like I can not touch ether pedal and it will go up to 25-30 mph and shift into second without me giving any pedal what so ever. Also when I'm going 45 or so I will let off the gas to slowly start to slow down. That doesn't happen... Instead it acts like it's on cruise control. Texas speed said throttle plate but I say bullshit. WTF is going on?!?!?

antonio84

Did u drill the hole bigger on the throttle body?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

This is a good question.

Additionally, did you adjust the set screw to try and attain a higher idle speed prior to getting the custom tune?

Did you do anything that might have caused a vacuum leak (mess with the intake, TB, PCV, etc.) during the cam install?

If all else fails, toss a scanner on there and see what the commaned idle speed is.

linebacker50

I didn't drill or make any hole bigger. Didn't even touch the throttle body. I was told to back the plate off a little bit. Dunno if I should or not

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

If you touched nothing in relation to the TB, then I would not mess with the set screw. Reason being, if you haven't previously touched it, then doing so now would only mask the problem at best, or do nothing to help you at worst. I would scan the PCM and look at:

- TPS voltage at idle
- Throttle % at idle
- IAC counts at idle
- Desired idle speed
- Actual idle speed
- Fuel trims
- Timing advance at idle

Based on those readings, I would then decide on the next course of action.

PS. I'm assuming you've already checked the basics, like proper throttle cable adjustment?

linebacker50

I didn't know I had to even touch the tb let alone the cable. But in gear at a stop light it's at about 800 rpm and about 750 in park. The guy I talked to at Texas speed said that it could be my lack of a stall. Because I have the stock one. It doesn't make sense to me for that to be the reason because when I was driving around with the cam in and no tune it didn't do this. I'm just so lost. And since schools out I don't have the tool to check all those things you listed. And there's no codes by the way.

cd5tuner

Are you sure you sent it to TexasSpeed and not to a Toyota Mechanic?!?!? Sorry...couldn't resist. But srsly, hope you get that fixed soon and yes it could be a sticky throttle plate, it used to happen in my 95 accord.

Jassick

iTrader: (1)

If there is a slight decline and my engine is cold, it'll do the same thing. With no gas at all it'll get up enough speed to shift into third. But, I don't have a cam. I never thought anything of it. Is yours doing it when the engine is warm as well?

gta3uzi

A lot of times, tuners will increase the idle RPM to help the engine idle with a bigger cam in it. It's possible they just set the new idle RPM a bit too high for your liking.

craz28

iTrader: (10)

stall first, cam second. Texas speed probably just increased the idle.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

it is in the tune I am trying to find what it is in mine

could be throttle cracker, throttle follower, rolling idle, ect...the lack of stall will make it worse too but I can guarantee it is something in the tune...my car had a mail order tune that didn't do it then after a dyno tune it does...bad...annoying and hard on brakes

I lowered my idle in EFI Live some and it helped but once the car rolls the idle increases and tries to match car speed, also when letting off throttle at interstate speed the rpms hang for a minute then drop hard then shoot back up...very annoying but I havent had time to call my tuner during business hours yet for an opinion on how I can fix it with EFI live

take your car back to texas speed and ask them to fix it, I'm sure they can oblige some street/drivability tuning

linebacker50

Ill check the throttle cable and make sure it's not sticking but I'm almost positive that's not it. This cam swap is a bigger pain in the *** then I thought it would be. I just don't know how texas speed messing with air fuel ratios would make my car go into auto pilot mode.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

Two problems most likely. One being the jacked blade,
get it back to "bind, minus a hair" and let (or make) the
idle learn itself right. May take a while and some dying.

Next, throttle cracker is almost certainly excessive and
in some stock tunes, just bone stupid. Cracker adds IAC
airflow to whatever throttle flow your foot is demanding.
You need almost none although a "soft landing" is what
the cracker is all about, and challenges the idle RPM
loop dynamics less than a snap-shut throttle left alone.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Those idles are too high IMO for an auto. I have a 650 idle in park and like 600 in gear with a 224 cam. Too high of idle, stock stall, and a cam creates problems.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

My idle was set at 950 by the tuner, idled perfect

I dropped it to 850 and now after reving it falls to 500 and bounces up to 900 before settling so I'm afriad to drop mine lower

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

^^^wow, I ran stock idles for like 2 months before I met up with my tuner on my 224. It would die occasionally, but he bumped both the idles 50 and it went away. 900 is like 230 cam M6 territory there.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

800rpm should be more than enough for a 224 cam. I'd probably try 650 in gear and 750 in park.

These days, bumping the idle way up to like 900 or more should only be needed when using a cam with tons of overlap. It used to be common to do that for any cam when tuning software was in the early stages for LS1s. But now you can tune several parameters to allow for a lower idle with plenty of stability.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

My idle is fine at 700, but I bet I spent way more time
at it than his tuner did.