Free Mods that don't work
#1
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Which free mod do you think is the biggest waste of time? FRA, EGR mod, P and P throttle body etc. I have seen test that show when all done together a 10 rwhp gain on a dyno, but I haven't seen any tests testing each one individually. I think that the P and P of the throttle body is the worst. I feel this way because no matter how much you port the outside and backside of the throttle body the middle with the butterfly is still choking the air down. JMO what is yours?
#2
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My 02 SS made a difference w/ a P&P TB and like u said all of them together make the difference.U really have to do the right combination to have a fast car.Most people do heads and cam and there car is no faster than my bolt-on car.U just have to know were to spend the money and no go crazy.JMO.
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I find it hard to believe that you're running bolt ons and keep up with cars running heads and cam. JMO.
To OP - I think !EGR and !AIR are probably a waste of time. I don't see how they can actually provide HP gains by removing. Sure, it cleans the car up and all but I dont see how it can be worth the time unless you are doing other things such as an intake or header install - then it would be worth it.
To OP - I think !EGR and !AIR are probably a waste of time. I don't see how they can actually provide HP gains by removing. Sure, it cleans the car up and all but I dont see how it can be worth the time unless you are doing other things such as an intake or header install - then it would be worth it.
#4
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A lot of uses of JMO in here.
How valuable is your time?
In theory "free" mods have a very high dollar to HP range even if the HP gain is low.
Say you pick up 2hp from FRA. What did it cost you? Say you broke a dremel cut off wheel so it cost you $1. You are getting 1hp per $.50. At that ratio $250 would get you 500 HP.
How valuable is your time?
In theory "free" mods have a very high dollar to HP range even if the HP gain is low.
Say you pick up 2hp from FRA. What did it cost you? Say you broke a dremel cut off wheel so it cost you $1. You are getting 1hp per $.50. At that ratio $250 would get you 500 HP.
#5
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I find it hard to believe that you're running bolt ons and keep up with cars running heads and cam. JMO.
To OP - I think !EGR and !AIR are probably a waste of time. I don't see how they can actually provide HP gains by removing. Sure, it cleans the car up and all but I dont see how it can be worth the time unless you are doing other things such as an intake or header install - then it would be worth it.
To OP - I think !EGR and !AIR are probably a waste of time. I don't see how they can actually provide HP gains by removing. Sure, it cleans the car up and all but I dont see how it can be worth the time unless you are doing other things such as an intake or header install - then it would be worth it.
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don't descreen your MAF sensor...might help flow since the intake path is straight on a fbody but it can confuse the calibration and you have a high risk of damaging it during removal
I would definitely do ram air, but go all out and run ducts to the bumper and force feed the airbox...should be very cheap to do with stuff from home depot
cutting off that egr tube would help too, as will porting the tb
I would definitely do ram air, but go all out and run ducts to the bumper and force feed the airbox...should be very cheap to do with stuff from home depot
cutting off that egr tube would help too, as will porting the tb
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#8
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P&P throttle body on my car increased throttle response quite a bit.
FRA isn't going to show any changes on a dyno, just at the track - where it matters.
I've never heard deleting the AIR system being a free power-adder mod - all it does is to inject hot air into the cats during a cold engine start to get their efficiency up more quickly. Doesn't have anything to do with engine power.
FRA isn't going to show any changes on a dyno, just at the track - where it matters.
I've never heard deleting the AIR system being a free power-adder mod - all it does is to inject hot air into the cats during a cold engine start to get their efficiency up more quickly. Doesn't have anything to do with engine power.
#9
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I ripped the EGR system off my LS1, but for an entirely different reason. The fitting on the air check valve was banging a hole in my AC line. So I removed the EGR system to prevent it from damaging the new AC line.
If anything I removed 10 lbs from my bird.
If anything I removed 10 lbs from my bird.
#10
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Which free mod do you think is the biggest waste of time? FRA, EGR mod, P and P throttle body etc. I have seen test that show when all done together a 10 rwhp gain on a dyno, but I haven't seen any tests testing each one individually. I think that the P and P of the throttle body is the worst. I feel this way because no matter how much you port the outside and backside of the throttle body the middle with the butterfly is still choking the air down. JMO what is yours?
Have you looked at a stock tb?
The part that gets removes is smaller then the back of the tb.
So yea it does help becase that choke point is the smallest. Also really helps with throttle response
#11
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I thought 01-02 didnt have egr?
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p&p TB does work since on a stock TB it bottle necks before the throttle blade so there is actually alot of material you can remove in front of the throttle blade to increase the overall diameter by like 5 or 6 mm not to mention you can smooth out all the casting marks while your p&p it, also helps throttle response like someone already said.
#14
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So do you have to do the !EGR to do the !AIR?
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none of it was a waste of time for me. I did ram air mod, de screened maff, ported stock TB, took all EGR off and had tune out the day i got my car. I could tell a difference. If ya a auto dont pull maff screen out
#18
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Sounds like maybe I am wrong about the P&P job. Does anyone have numbers to back this up? To prove that the flow rate is better? Don't forget to also talk about and explain the free mod that you feel is the least beneficial.