s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

ok i have a 99 camaro z28. current mods here- https://ls1tech.com/forums/what-wort...-z28-mint.html
here is my dilemma- i am on a teenager budget so not alot of income but still have christmas money left over but i dont want to be cheap and have my mods rust or have to replaced in a couple years. i wanna do it right the first time.

1. my compression is a 9:1 ratio. how do i raise it back to stock or higher? (heads?) is there more power to made with higher compression (especially with it be N/A)

2. MAF? is it worth getting a bigger one? what is the other parts i have to upgrade along with the bigger MAF? (lid and TB)?

3. pros and cons about bigger MAF and TB?

4. i love the speed inc. clear lids! any1 have fitment issues with those? what about the granatelli lids? (why are they so cheap?)

5. dyno tune (highly stupid about these)- does any1 know the average price of a very good tuner on the dyno?

6. are these good expectations to have for a dyno tune- 1. higher mpg (getting 13 driving like a grandma, in between city and hwy driving) 2. shift points changed 3. higher 1/4 (my times are horrible for the mods i have, also didnt have alot of traction but still)

thank you very much. sorry for being such a newb, im pretty mechanically inclined but its hard to learn w/o someone showing me visually, you know?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

What was done to lower it? And why?

These are questions that need to be answered before anyone can advise you on a best course of action.

s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

he had a rear-mounted turbo on the car, took it off before he sold it because he said it was a bee-otch to tune. it has CNC ported heads. but wouldnt that raise the compression? also a custom turbo cam.

thank you 4 ur help

BigBirdLS1

If I had to guess I would say that the pistons were swapped to lower the compression. Again that is a guess so who knows. If you want stock compression back your best bet would be to swap to stock heads and definitely get that turbo cam out especially if you plan on keeping it N/A. Have you thought about getting a used stockish longblock then selling your motor. That way you will at least know what you are working with.

babbage1109

iTrader: (11)

If you're goin to do maf and lid get an 85mm with a 98mm FTP lid

z28oc91

iTrader: (1)

i asked the same question about getting a MAF and a lot of people told me yes you will get some power but unless your car has a lot already done to it to it its not worth it (yet), and as far as a dyno goes do not do that untill you are almost done with the car... my cousin had a ls2 gto and i beleive he told me it was roughly 5-600

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

So it sounds like your biggest problem is not knowing exactly what is in the car. I think the previous poster may have it right. sell the motor, maybe just the short block and go replace with one that is set up to run NA. Any chance you could go back to the previous owner and see if he has a build sheet for the motor. That would help you out alot.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, if you want peak performance out of any mods that you do, then you need a package that works well together. You currently have a low compression engine that's setup for boost, so you're never going to get the most out of this setup at NA level. You will either need to look at returing it to a boosted/N2O setup, or consider some internal engine changes (compression, cam).

s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

selling my motor and what not wouldnt be a very good option for me because im on a very strict budget and its my DD back and forth to school. so from what yall are saying, i have 3 options

1. turbo it, put the boost back in
2. n20 it
3. keep it n/a (best route on low income), get higher compression heads and cam?

s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

could i keep the pistons? or should i swap them. i talked to him about the cam specs and he said the person that built the motor out in cali has moved his shop. has any of yall ever john nissan?? what other questions should i ask him besides the motor build sheet?

garygnu

what heads are they?aftermarket or gm casting?look for any casting numbers.you could mill the heads and raise the compression and use a thinner head gasket also. get a cam that works best with the compression ratio you end up with.you will have to measure for correct length push rods.and you will need a new tune .

s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

there CNC ported heads. driver side head says 853 and the passenger side has nothing at all. kinda like a polished area where the numbers should be



also i need a tune now. i was going to get LT's, lid, and full exhaust in the next couple of weeks then wait to get a tune. is that a good idea?

s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

okay it sounds like alot of work and money to bring my car back to a N/A setup. turbo kits are like 6k so thats a little bit too much money

how about a wet shot? i heard there better for your motor and more reliable than a dry. i like the fact that nitrous is a kit. the process of building my motor back to a N/A setup is not one simple kit and can be messed up. i would rather run my car for what it is built for. im not too familiar about nitrous but how is this for a wet shot-
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ZEX-82087/?rtype=10

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

The unknowns make this difficult -- your best bet is going to be to do all that you can to get more info on the build.

If the previous owner went through the trouble of lowering compression for a turbo setup, I wouldn't be surprised if the tune is also off target of the current setup.

As for the MAF, don't waste your money on that as an early mod. The stock MAF is not a major restriction on the power you're making so your money could be better spent.

As it was stated above, each of these parts need to work in unison with each other to realize the true benefit of the mods. Without knowing exactly what's going on inside it's going to be really tough to find parts to compliment the existing mods.

boostedbird38

iTrader: (7)

i agree with Gary. get that turbo cam out and find a 98-02 ls1 cam and some stock pushrods and have those heads milled more than the shop would normally do for a resurfacing job.

i believe 853 heads are the earlier LS1 heads so that will be fine.

after that get a tune done. should be around $500-600 total

s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

okay i understand, what exactly should i ask him. im sure he knows some stuff .

okay could i sell the turbo cam? could i get a high lift ls1 cam w/ stock pushrods? i would love to have a lopey cam but would i being pay a price for the hard lope? should i do basic bolt ons before i start doing all this (lid, headers, exhaust?) what does milling do?
if i wanna run nitrous on this set-up, then what should i consider taking out? im guessing still take out the turbo cam

s25hanh

iTrader: (8)

just bought a speed inc clear lid.

9WhiteCamaro9

^ Idk what brand clear lid it is but there's one out there that isn't so hot. A lot of people have said they had more problems out of the clear lids than the black type lids. They say the "pegs" that stick out that go in the slots to help hold it down will eventually start to break and they were made poorly. IDK what the brand was of if they were speakig of all clear lids or not.

lt1pwr1

iTrader: (1)

I'd say you are jumping the gun when you are talking about headers, exhaust etc. Like everyone else said, you need to get your motor figured out before anything else IMO. That's the problem with buying a modded car especially without any documentation. You have no idea what you are working with.

And FYI, I'm sure he took the turbo out because he could get good money for that selling it separate rather than giving it to you with the car. A good shop/tuner wouldn't have a problem tuning a turbo car.

If you have the ability, there are plenty of shortblocks in the parts classified. Try looking in there just to get you back to stock.

boostedbird38

iTrader: (7)

i still agree with everyone else. forget about a high lift cam and nitrous for it. u need get some info from the previous owner. specs on the cam, what was done to the heads, etc. then go from there.

you definitely need to get that custom turbo cam out unless you plan on turboing again yourself....and that will cost way more in the end than putting it back to stock.