versz

So I plan on going with LongTube headers eventually (TSP 1-7/8)

Im going to the tune shop this week to get my air pump tuned out he wants $150 for the job. While he's in there should I tell him to ditch my rear o2's as well?

The car will be tuned when I put LTs on it but I haven't figured out when I wanted to do that. I am going with ORY as well from TSP

The car has it's original CATs at the moment too so I wasn't sure if deleting the rear o2's would screw the cats up or something.

Thanks

usnfenix

iTrader: (11)

just buy a pair of o2 simulators. they will simulate a good o2 reading from your rear o2 sensors.

and just some 2 cents from me i wouldnt pay someone to tune out the AIR system until after im done with most of my mods and its time for a dyno tune, because the AIR can be deleted then and not cost you 150 for just that. what i did on my ss was rip out the AIR system and pull the fuse so it never turned on again. much easier than paying someone 150 bucks to do the same thing essentially.

and fyi if you were to just "ditch" the rear o2 after the cat as it sits right now yes, you would get misfires and the car will run like ****.

versz

well the problem with the AIR system is it's giving me a SES code.. something about passenger side air whatever I forget the code. but the solution was to just delete your air or replace the valve. Does pulling the fuse cause a SES? I'd rather just ditch the emissions bs. My county doesn't do it. this is the first vehicle i've had with a cat lol

Sales4@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (4)

If he is going to be deleting the AIR I would go ahead and get him to delete the rear O2s at the same time. Its only a couple of clicks and it would prevent you from having to try and find O2 simulators. The EPA has made it tough to get those from what I know.

versz

So rear o2s wouldn't affect my performance if I still have the factory CATs?

Also a quick noobie question. Does your ORY fit stock manfiolds and Dual/Dual catback?

Thanks for your information.

Sales4@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (4)

No turning off the rear O2s won't effect performance. They are only there to make sure the stock cats work right, all they do is throw a code but won't alter how the car runs. Our ORY is meant to fit longtubes so it won't mate to the stock manifolds.

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

My first question is why do you want to pay $150 to have the air deleted right now? I'm assuming you just don't want to see the SES light on your dash until you get headers?

My suggestion to you would be to wait until you are going to buy headers and the ory and whatever else you are going to do for bolt ons (lid, ported throttle body, cat back/cut out), and then send your PCM to the LS1tech user "Frost" and have him flash your PCM with a tune for your mods and while he has it he can tune out your air and rear 02's. Then you can get it all done in one shot instead of having the pay the $150 now to get the rear 02's and air deleted and then having to pay money AGAIN to have your car tuned after you do headers.

justin hover

EXACTLY!!! This is what I did.... Removed my AIR & EGR by just following writes ups on this site (very easy). Had my race LT's installed without rear 02s. Sent my pcm out to Frost and had everything done at once for 150$. Do not have him tune out air. Wait until your headers are in, you'll need a tune after the install anyways to maximize your hp gains. Ses light means nothing.

versz

I understand this entirely. But my header job wont be for a while. I am building a new garage first for my car and another car. Then I have to invest in tools and what not. The ses light is just a huge PITA :/

TheBlueKnight

iTrader: (4)

Why is it a pain? Just because you don't want to stare at the SES light until you get your headers? If so, and it's worth $150 to not have to look at that light until you get your headers than go for it.

justin hover

If that's the case I'd spend the 150$ on Frost. $ for $ a frost tune will make your car "run" better comparably to just having the air deleted for the same price.

versz

SES light went out today for almost no apparent reason.

justin hover

Does this mean you went to the shop? or it just went off for the time being?

versz

I think the heat played a role. When it came on it was a blistering 100 degrees here in ohio and it was very humid. But now things have settled down to 75 degrees and the air valve doesn't throw a code now. That's the only thing I can think of. I havent done anything different to the car in a while. I'm not concerned. It's more money to spend on tools.