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Best bang for the buck...head/cam combo etc.

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Old 09-23-2012, 01:36 PM
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Default Best bang for the buck...head/cam combo etc.

I'm fairly new to the ls stuff but would love to get opinions...car is a bone stock 99 z28 a4 with 153000 miles motor is very tight and don't use a drop of oil.The tranny is a transgo beefed up 4l60e with a shiftkit with 7000 miles on it,I'm looking to make good power on a budget, maybe around 420-450 rwhp range with true duals and running mid 7's in the 1/8th.Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
Old 09-23-2012, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Fine408C5R
I'm fairly new to the ls stuff but would love to get opinions...car is a bone stock 99 z28 a4 with 153000 miles motor is very tight and don't use a drop of oil.The tranny is a transgo beefed up 4l60e with a shiftkit with 7000 miles on it,I'm looking to make good power on a budget, maybe around 420-450 rwhp range with true duals and running mid 7's in the 1/8th.Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks.
420-450 rw threw an auto is very possible, w/ an auto though I wouldnt be so hooked on numbers and more on track performance. To give you an idea I put down around 415-420 corrected(never got a corrected reading that day) w/ hand ported 243 heads and a G5x2 cam..If I was to do it again i would get a set of 243's and send then to AI or TEA, that and a good size cam should get you were you want. $400-450 for the heads and $800-1000 for the shipping plus port work. All cams are generally priced the same, a few more bucks for a custom grind....remember your also going to need to get a stall converter to reap all the benefits of the cam.
Old 09-23-2012, 03:31 PM
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Best head/cam deal IMO is the PRC stage 1 ls6 head/cam kit combo from TSP. By the time you buy some heads used and send them off to AI, you can get an aftermarket cast brand new with comparable flow. Other than the stall you also need to be thinking about your rear end...a 10 bolt with 153k won't last long with 415+hp with any traction at all.
Old 09-23-2012, 04:29 PM
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Thanks for the advice fellows, I think I'm going with fully ported and polished 243's and a custom grind cam.Yes I'm def going with a moser 12 bolt, the rearend in it now believe it or not doesent whine a bit but it's a 273 gear in it now going with 373' putting more load on it would def make it act up.Plus I've seen way too many 10 bolts snap in two, even by a mild 360rwhp car lol...
Old 09-23-2012, 04:42 PM
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Put a girdle on the rear and weld your axle tubes. No need for 12 bolt. Id get a truck pan for your tranny and a cooler. Should be fine for a while.

PRC stage 1 heads are the cheapest and work well but may not meet your RWHP goals. You will need a more aggressive head. I would get a custom cam and 243/799 226cc heads from AI(shop Ebay for some cheap 799 cores-they pop up for about 250-350 for your heads). I have seen a lot of Comp Cam failures and cams way off from them lately and AI unlike most vendors doesn't use Comp cams. Make sure to factor in all of your supporting mods too(head bolts,valve springs,timing chain,new oil pump etc)

How fast do you want the car to be?
Old 09-23-2012, 05:22 PM
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I'd like to be running mid 11's in the 1/4 that would be great! I want to be keeping it somewhat streetable drive it on Sundays and taking the gal out to eat on a Saturday night.Drive it to the track and make 4-5 passes and drive it home with no worries about floating a valve,and sacrificing streetability. Keep all the interior like it is no cage just a killer budgetable combo.What stall would recommend?And I have seen some 799 headed cars run like a champ!Yesterday I went to the strip they were holding a street car race the outlaw civil wars @ rockingham there was a black ss running 799 heads with an ls2 intake 90mm throttle body, and he was flying!With of course the help of an lq9 and 76mm turbo, there potential is def there...so y'all think 799 heads are the way to go over 243's?And as far as the rearend welding up the axle tubes and putting a girdle on the rear would that still hold up under the shock when it hooks hard...I priced 12 bolts and they are very outrageous! Seems if a girdle and welding up the axles hold up sure beats the hell outta paying 3000 for a 12 bolt.Every opinion helps and I really appreciate yalls time!!!
Old 09-23-2012, 07:37 PM
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I think you should look at the S60 from Carl at CRP. Alot stronger then the 12 bolt for the same price.
Old 09-23-2012, 09:00 PM
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You don't need heads for mid 11s on an auto.

799/243 are basically the same exact heads and when ported this is no difference. 799s are usually cheaper because people don't realize that

I run a ten bolt with heads cam and sixtys in the low 1.6s and high 1.5s. You will be fine.
Old 09-24-2012, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Fine408C5R
Thanks for the advice fellows, I think I'm going with fully ported and polished 243's and a custom grind cam.Yes I'm def going with a moser 12 bolt, the rearend in it now believe it or not doesent whine a bit but it's a 273 gear in it now going with 373' putting more load on it would def make it act up.Plus I've seen way too many 10 bolts snap in two, even by a mild 360rwhp car lol...
If your 10 bolt is in good condition, there should be no reason to upgrade it. It seems that many people don't understand how much more forgiving a stalled auto is on the driveline than an M6. I've known of several people who've broken 10 bolts with M6s, and less than 350 rear wheel. However, I've known quite a few people with stalled autos, who've run much more power through their 10 bolts, without a hiccup. My current car still has the bone stock 10 bolt. It's a daily driver, and has been in its current configuration for the last 3 years, with no issues. My old car was even stronger. It was a '93 with a 383-inch LT motor, with a T-76, and it also had a stock 10 bolt. It stood up to over 600 foot lbs. of torque. I'm not saying it will hold up to endless wheels-up launches, but it is much more capable than people realize, when it isn't subjected to the tremendous driveline shock of an M6.
Old 09-24-2012, 12:39 AM
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the right stall and a mild cam with some suspension parts will get you 11s.also look at vengeance racing for good combos.a tsp st ls6 head with the right cam will get you 450+ rwhp.
Old 09-24-2012, 09:08 AM
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For you application, and the most power possible, our PRC 227cc cylinder heads with our MS4 camshaft, combined with at least a 3600 converter would easily get you to those goals. If budget is a concern, we can still get there, or if not really close with our Stage 2.5 LS6s and the MS4 camshaft with the same 3600 converter. Here are two links to our website, feel free to call with any questions!

PRC 227cc Heads and Camshaft Package:
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1168-pr...m-package.aspx
PRC 2.5 LS6 Heads and Camshaft Package:
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1161-pr...m-package.aspx
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:10 AM
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I almost forgot to mention that setup with our As-cast 225cc cylinder heads, which would be a great option for an aftermarket casting but still be easy on the budget.
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-3961-pr...m-package.aspx
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Old 09-25-2012, 07:01 AM
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with TSP PRC heads you can use the stock GM rocker arms.I like the PRC 225 heads.
Old 09-25-2012, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by garygnu
with TSP PRC heads you can use the stock GM rocker arms.I like the PRC 225 heads.
Sure can, making it easier for a budget swap!
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Old 09-29-2012, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake@Texas-Speed
I almost forgot to mention that setup with our As-cast 225cc cylinder heads, which would be a great option for an aftermarket casting but still be easy on the budget.
http://www.texas-speed.com/p-3961-pr...m-package.aspx
not to thread jack but what is the difference with "as cast" heads beside price over the other heads?
Old 09-29-2012, 01:20 PM
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The As-Cast has cast runners verse cnc'd runners which in turn cuts cost down and allows us to sell them at a cheaper price. Same concept as the Trick Flow As-Cast 220s. An awesome way to go if your looking for a cylinder head that will net some great gains, but not hit the wallet as hard as the more expensive CNC'd aftermarket castings.



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