Michael_e

I'm looking for a 6.0 for my panel project. Are there any 6.0 I should avoid? Any particular years that were just poor performers or a less than prime platform to build from? My project is my avatar.
Mike

conan

iTrader: (5)

Are you looking at getting a Iron block LQ4-LQ9 or aluminum Ls2 6.0L ? Keeping it stock bottom end or going with a forged short block ?

Tuskyz28

Great questions.....

Michael_e

Would like a aluminum block, but budget says iron. Will be mostly stock build to begin with, but would like a strong bottom end for future considerations. Will need to do some towing, 16 ft flatbed with no more than 4K load, maybe one a month, maybe less. Avatar is project vehicle. Plans to get vehicle down somewhat overall, not such a wind block. And would like to get out on the 1/4 mile once in a while. Want good daily driver most of all.

conan

iTrader: (5)

The LQ4 has a dish piston and 9.5:1 compression in stock form. The LQ9 has a flat top piston and 10:1 compression. Everything else is mostly the same between the 2 engines. The LQ9 motors are found in the the higher end vehicles, Yukons, cadillacs ect. The LQ4 is common in the pick up trucks.

With all that said I would try to get a LQ9 if your going to keep the bottom end in stock form for a while. Compression will help the heavier vehicle your using and with towing.

Cool looking project good luck with it.

Michael_e

Can I put LQ9 pistons in the LQ4 engine? Any interference problems? Are the rods the same length?
Mike

Tuskyz28

You should be able to. Pistons out the LQ9 go help with overall power. Another way to bring compression up on a LQ4 without changing the pistons is to mill the heads or run a thinner head gasket.

conan

iTrader: (5)

Not 100% sure but I think the LQ9 has free float wrist pins and the LQ4 has press pins, Or in might be the other way around. If that's the case you would just want to buy a flat top piston to fit the LQ4 rods, instead of having to buy rods and pistons. At that point you might as well do the entire thing, bearings, rings, cylinder hone rods, pistons, rod bolts ect... Snow ball is getting bigger. So if your on a budget find the best LQ-4/9 you can afford and run it. Rebuild or stroke it later in life for a winter project.

The LQ4 will power your truck with out any problems, I was giving you the rundown if your local junk yard had both available to choose.

dogger

iTrader: (1)

The wrist pins are the same. Lq4 and lq9 pistons can be swapped rods are the same up to 06 anyway. Stay away from the 01 as the crank is longer by .400 inch. And needs a space to hook up to a trans 02 later had a regular crank.

Michael_e

Ok, I've got some good info to work with here.

Now, what about these engines with the displacement on demand and variable cam timing or variable valve timing?

When did they come out, 2006? What does that me to me in my situation? Will it create any unnecessary challenges for me to deal with?

How would I identify an engine sitting on a garage floor that is equipped that way? I'm talking about a craigslist find or a friend that has a friend....You know, a dirty engine with all the accessories still attached, wiring harness all coiled up and laying on the top on the engine. Heck, how can I make sure it's a 6.0 engine to begin with?


Thanks,
Mike

Tuskyz28

It'll have 6.0 stamped on the front face of the block.... Also look for 317 on the cylinder head. Most 6.0 motors had 317 casting number on the cylinder head.