sub-frame connecters
#2
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I'm also trying to figure this out. The boxed design ones are supposed to be stronger than the tubular ones, but I don' t know how much. Then there are also the Kenny Double Daimond and SLP versions that has a more in depth design with cross-bracing. They're like $100 and I don't know if the different design is worth it.
#3
I think the KBDD are alittle overkill. The tubular ones will be just fine so i wouldnt worry about the boxed ones over the tubular ones. If the price is right on a set of tub. ones buy them up. They say BMR's are nice but they are weld on. All SLP stuff is pricey.
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Originally Posted by Mystic
I think the KBDD are alittle overkill. The tubular ones will be just fine so i wouldnt worry about the boxed ones over the tubular ones. If the price is right on a set of tub. ones buy them up. They say BMR's are nice but they are weld on. All SLP stuff is pricey.
Is there any real difference or potential problems with getting bolt-in SFC's versus the weld-in ones. I don't plan on going crazy with torque in the future so would the bolt-on's hold up fine?
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Bolt ons tend to be a little bit more pricey, and I've heard that they may come a little loose after awhile. Most competant shops can weld you in a cheap set of weld ins for fairly cheap. That's what I'd do.
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Well, I guess that I didn't do something correctly when I did my search, because when I searched in the handling and braking section for subframe connecters I got a wopping 8 results and only one of those comes close to answering my questions. I definately don't want the search police on my back, so jimmyblue, any help to this newbe would be great!
pmh
pmh
#13
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i got competition engineering bolt in subframes for like $160 at ramchargers, i wasnt looking for a bolt on set but for the price it was cheaper than a lot of weld in ones, most bolt in sets i found were too much. they look like quality pieces, i havent installed them yet but when i test fitted the drivers side it went in nicely and tucked up there real good, wouldnt even know they were on the car. just need to find a good shop to weld them in, i wouldnt even consider bolting them, the metal is too thin on the inside of the car for my comfort.
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I have the KBDD weld in SFCs, I don't regret it one bit,my T/A is as solid as the day I bought it.I also race it six months out of the year and the car is still solid.
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i got a set of slp's, knockoffs, on ebay for 120 weld on they came with primer on them and i painted them yellow welded them in myself can't really see them unless your far away from the car he still sells them he has boltons too.
#19
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Originally Posted by DMNSPD
I went with the weld on boxed BMR's. I like the boxed design because you can throw a jack on them anywhere to lift the car up.
Edit: Also, i dont see why you'd want "stealthy" SFC's, not sure if my ground effects (sport package, stock) affect it but mine are not visible and i have lower things than them anyway such as my exhaust, dumps, and two quart deaper trans pan.
Last edited by blkZ28spt; 07-17-2004 at 02:57 AM.