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iTrader: (2)

Well I just bout a 98 WS6 today. SWEET CAR. Anyway, I was thinking I should replace all the filters, all the fluids and do a tune up. What do you guys think? Have you guys done the same? The car has a little fewer than 113k miles on it.

Fluids: oil, transmission fluid, coolant flush, washer fluid , rear end fluid and gasket.

Filters: fuel, oil, air cleaner, and I want to flush the brake fluid and put all new stuff in

Other: FI cleaner with the machine at a shop, brake pads and rotors if needed, 4 wheel alignment, brass gears for my headlights (annoying as hell) and most importantly tune-up!

What do you guys think?

My questions are:

1. What kind of motor oil should I use? (Brand and viscosity...higher mileage?)
2. What kind of transmission fluid?
3. I’m guessing a 50/50 antifreeze mix should be good
4. Should I get stock pads and rotors? If not what are some decent low dust pads?
5. Rear end fluid. Should I go with synthetic?

Thanks for reading guys.... I LOVE THIS CAR!!

allthatisman

Nice ride, what did you pay? I just got my 98 about a month ago for $12,7. It has 63000 miles. Needed many of the things you listed. Here is what I did:

-new rotors/pads all around
-air, fuel, oil, and tranny filters
-spark plugs
-oil,-- 10/30 royal purple
-radiator flush/ tranny fluid flush
-thermostat
-resealed tranny pan
-resealed rear differential refilled fluid


I think thats all for now. The car was a bit neglected which is why it has relativly low miles. Aside from my mod troubles, it runs like a champ. I love driving this car everyday. So far it is my favorite, and I have had a few cars in my day(last car was a Lightning) Still have the truck, but by far would rather drive the WS6. Good luck!!

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iTrader: (2)

Thanks. I paid 8,000. How much did the rotors and pads cost you? Were they all the way around? Didn’t know there was a transmission filter heh, so I’ll def get that.

Bad thing is, tonight I was doing some sprints and the clutch slips half way through 2nd and 1/4 through 3rd . I need to take it easy so I can save up for a new clutch.

Should I just get a stock replacement or should I go with a stage X clutch?

allthatisman

Well i have ant auto so i cant help you there. However i opted for american made TRW rotors and pads. It was done in a pinch so i paid a little too much, but the front rotors were 72 and the rears were like 63. honestly cant remember what the pads were. but i try not to buy **** made in china if i can. the new rotors look cool with the y2k c5 rims i threw on, nice and silver. Just need to paint the calipers now. But they stop awesome which is really what matters.

allthatisman

btw if and when you flush the radiatior, I would do the throtle body bypass. Very worth while free mod and extremely easy. I got a length of 5/16" radiatior tubing and ran it from the radiatior to the inlet on the block, then zip tied the line to the main radiator hose. Oh the other thing i did was replace all the crappy spring clamps on the engine.

David 2002 WS6

iTrader: (7)

I agree, those squeeze-type clamps used on the antifreeze/coolant hoses are nothing but trouble. When you change the antifreeze/coolant - and possibly the radiator hoses - be sure to replace those squeeze-type clamps with screw-type band clamps.

ace68

iTrader: (15)

if you feel a pulse in the brake pedal change the rotors if not just leave them unless you don't have any pad left leave them too. I bought some rotors from ebay in the winter drilled and sloted zinkwashed all four for $220 about 10 1/4 mile passes hard stoping on the freeway and no issues they were cast in china machined in cali.

looks like you got a sweet deal even with a burnt clutch.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

For motor oil I use Mobil 1 with the mobil one M206 filter.
Don't use synthetic in the rear end. use any type of regular gear oil with the GM Limited Slip Additive

Your right on with every thing else. Only thing I saw you left out was powersteering, at 113k i'm sure it could use a flush.