Will my stock rear end on my 98' Z28 be able to handle nitto drag radials? If there is any chance that the rear end will break as a result I don't even want to bother, but would love to be able to hook up with radials. What are some other alternatives as far as good tires for a street car set up that will still hook up to the street good, and not risk breaking my rear end?

 

Some have broken them on stock tires, some get away with running slicks. If you can't afford to replace it if it breaks, then don't mod it.

 

Well if you have a M6 it could blow with one good hook. I have a M6 with Nittos and have been to the track several time and never had it break but I don't launch above 2500 rpm's. Get you a set it will be worth it.

 

i had BFG drags radials on mine. about 8 good launches at the track and posi is fried and i had to rebearing it cause it chewed the hell out of the pinion bearing. that is just my experience. some guys have great luck with the small rears and some don't. i'm not fixing the posi now because i feel i'm beating a dead horse. 12 bolt coming in the spring

 

Is it M6 or A4? If it's an M6, I wouldn't try putting drag radials to use at the track. Some have run 2.0X and broken the rear. If it's an A4 you have a much better chance at getting away with it. I havn't run mine very many times but I have been pulling 1.72-1.78 60's with ET streets. I should have a very healthy cam/tune in the next month or two, pan to run some 1.6X 60's without going ........but not many. Some people get into the 1.5X's without breaking them.

 

I just got some 315 Nitto 555 DRs on back, I have a 99Z28 M6 with air lid, LT headers and some other little stuff. My car pulls so much harder off the line. I was a little worried at first but Ive tested it out fully and it seems to be holding up for now.
The tires hook up great but I can still scratch them a little. If Im flooring it in first, then shift to second and hit it my car will kick to the side just a little and then hook up and continue to pull like hell. I love it! I dont drop it off the line, just hold the clutch out barely then let the clutch go as I get on it.
Hope this info helps

 

Let me get this right, If there is ANY chance of breaking your rear end with drag radials then you dont want to get them? My answer to you is "you dont want to get them" I suppose you could get them and not launch hard then hit the gas without spinning as much, maybe get better 60' times.

 

Stick with the stock tires for now. You even have a chance of breaking your 10 bolt with what you have now.

 

I drove on Nittos from Oct 2001 til Dec 2003 with no problems with my stock 10 bolt. I even changed gears to 4.10's and had numeous passes at the track a good 60 or so and my car hooks hard on the street and the track. I cut several 1.7 60' launching 3-3200 with my M6 never had an issue with it with exhaust (headers and catback) and sold my 10 bolt when I bought my 12 bolt.

Most 10 bolts that I've seen break all had alot of power, cams, exhaust some with just exhaust.

10 bolts can break it's the luck of the draw. You should be fine with them they are excellent on the street too. Street tires will spin worse or wheel hop on the track it's once you hook on the track that shocks the rear end and can break them.

 

i been running nittos for the past 2 yrs now, i probably have at least 30 passes on the track wit my stock rear end. i guess it all depends how hard u lunch on them.

 

I think they are great for stock cars. I told someone asking it would be a good mod and everyone disagreed with me but I believe that you can feather it off the line and at least get a 1.9xx 60' w/o hurting the rear. A lot the guys said it wouldnt help very much but it did for me.

I have actually heard that slicks are easier on the rear considering they give a little.

 

Nittos 555R Extremely Awesome Tires!

 

I run nittos everyday of the year. No problems.

 

The theory on that is that the flexible sidewalls eat some of the shock. They are also less likely to produce wheelhop. The two things that supposedly get it to go with ease are the shock from a dead hook with an M6 or a stalled A4 that is not pre-loaded, and wheel hop.


**Disclaimer**
If you take your ten bolt to the track, it may go at any given time, regardless of how carefull you are or what your setup is. Don't think it won't happen to you!! (because that's my plan )

 

Mine busted on me with a 1.93 60'. I have a M6, and at the time i was making around 340/350 to the wheels.....I was on DR's....take it for what it's worth. Do you have good luck? Do you usually take all your friends money at poker night? Then i say go for it. Unfortunately for me, that night my rear end took all my $$$!!!

 

id hold off if your strapped for cash

 

automatics are more forgiving. there are a lot of guys running in the low 11's on the stock 10 bolt, but if you have an m6. i saw a guy who had full exhaust, aftermarket clutch, and mickey thompson dr break his rear end. he had nothing else done to the car.

 

I had a 94 Trans Am Gt with a worn clutch and drag radials I grenaded the factory 10 bolt. Afterwards I got Strange 4:10s and had a buddy of mine rebuild my posi. He guaranteed it to be as strong as a 9" rear. So I rebuit it and then put a centerforce dual friction in. Best set up I ever had!! You'd be surprised how hard the Centerforce dual frictiion grabs.

 

all i have run is nittos.


































im on rear #3.

 

[QUOTESgtB]Afterwards I got Strange 4:10s and had a buddy of mine rebuild my posi. He guaranteed it to be as strong as a 9" rear. So I rebuit it and then put a centerforce dual friction in. Best set up I ever had!! You'd be surprised how hard the Centerforce dual frictiion grabs.[/QUOTE]

well your buddy is wrong...BIG TIME...a 10-bolt will never be as strong as a 9" no matter how much money you put into it...and just a fyi your buddy made it weaker than it was stock by putting those 4.10's in it and the axles break fairly easy with the 10-bolt too...so the gear and posi are not the only weak link