00SUPERSPORT

My warrantee just expired, the dealership told me that if I did any mods to my car, certain things were not going to be covered, so I have been waiting for 2 years to trick out my car !!! So with that being said, I just bought an SLP Flo Pac, SLP MAF Sensor, Nitto 555R Drag Radials, Pacesetter Long Tubes, Summit X-Pipe, and Dynomax Bullets(x2.) I am going to have some fun now !!! That to me is very respectable!!! Also keep in mind that I have about 150lbs of beat in the trunk, two JL W6's, two JL amps, and a custom box, so I have to make up for that weight and it is a m6. Any insight or feedback on anything else I should do??? I am new to this so any help and detailed responses would be great!!!!!!! Thanks LS1ers

Flaminchiten67

Is it an A4 or an M6?

if A4 get a converter, if M6 upgrade the hydraulics to an 01 - 02 hydraulics and maybe a ls6 clutch, and pro 5.0 shifter with a short stick is fun.

00SUPERSPORT

its a m6 sorry, but it has a hurst shifter and I was looking at a new cutch too, especially with the drags, what about gears??? its a daily driver with stock clutch, stock rear end, and stock gears???

Flaminchiten67

At least get a short stick if you want to keep the hurst.

lots of people run 4.10's in the M6. If you plan on taking it to the track with 4.10's and grippier clutch and drag radials the stock rear will be a ticking timebomb. If you got the cash, upgrade to a 12 bolt or 9inch.

code4

iTrader: (30)

I also waited until my warranty was up, then I did QTP headers with true duals, TR224-112 cam, lid, ud pulley. It was a new car as far as performance, then I did the lca's & sfc's from UMI. The only thing bad is that I believe the powertrain is not going to last long as I can't control myself anymore. I am always on it, the sound is beautiful. My tires are wearing down fast as well. I just love breaking them loose at 30 to 40 MPH, it's just plain fun. You might consider a cam, it really wakes these cars up. Sorry I don't have any #'s or times I live in the middle of nowhere I'm just a guy that loves cars & horsepower. Enjoy your mods, I know you will.

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

My worst problem at the track was traction. Could not get
below a 2.0 60' on the stock 17" Goodyears, bad wheelspin.
Nittos are popular. If you lose traction on the first hit from
wheel lift, consider LCA relocation brackets and/or a "drag
bag". Once you have traction a converter will really help an
A4 but on stock rubber it's not going to help 1st gear any,
just improve the 1-2 and 2-3 shift (keep you up in the power
band). Don't ignore weight reduction, if there are things you
might choose to do without. Also take a look at things that
degrade at-track performance, especially heat-soak issues,
losing timing to elevated IAT / ECT can be prevented.

00SUPERSPORT

Exactly, kaboom!!!!! I just want more horses for the streets more so against these $hitty cobras, and not for the track, 4.10 would be too much and I dont have time to be searching for my rear end on the kurb,lol!!! What is a 12 bolt or a 9inch, again excuse my lack of knowledge, I am new to this, but I am a fast learner!!!

00SUPERSPORT

What is that lca's and sfc's from UMI??? i am a new to this, I am thinking cams and intake manifolds two or threee months from now. What happens when your powertrain goes???

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

i would leave the MAF alone, and take that junk out of your trunk.

300lbs is arguably .3 seconds in the 1/4 mile, keep that in mind

12 bolt gm, and 9" ford rear ends are popular upgrades form the POS 10 bolt. LCA = lower controll arm (connects uni-body to the rear end on each side), SFC's = sub-frame connectors (tighten the car up and give a much better feel with less flex).

LCA relocation brackets = move your LCA's lower on the rear end side and help reduce wheel hop

dont touch the rear end untill your unbolting it to put in a 12bolt/9"

get ready for some serious loudness w/ the duals and bullets (i have them).

you could also do the free mods (do a search to find them).

thats my advice


p.s. - there is only ONE CAM, saying the word C-A-M-S could damn well get you thrown off this board ....also only one intake manifold as well.

00SUPERSPORT

See, now thats the schooling I need, thanks BLUR!!! I had a typo it was 150lbs in my trunk. I was thinking about putting electric cut outs after the heads, that would be super loud!!!!!! But I don't know, I just want some insight, thanks again Blur. Majority of the free mods, I have done already, but as for the MAF why leave it alone???

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

because that MAF on your car flows PLENTY, and you might just open up a whole can of worms that you'd rather leave closed. all kinda funny things can happen when you start screwing around with it. since you already have it, put it on and see if it helps, if not, put the stocker back on. either way, there shouldnt be a noticeable difference.

150lbs isnt too bad if you really enjoy your music like some do, plus it helps lessen while yer running someone.

trust me, if you do an x-pipe w/ bullets and dumps, you will have all the loud (good loud) you want. the x-pipe will make more power for you than just some loud *** (sound-like-a-tractor) cutouts right after the headERS.

send the MAF back, save a little more dough, and buy an LS6 intake manifold from one of the board members, you will definaly feel a SOTP difference with that.

btw - SOTP = seat of the pants

00SUPERSPORT

cool, thats what I will do, i will throw on the slp MAF and if there is no difference, I'm gonna go after the intake manifold, should I bust out the cam at the same time since I'm going to change the intake manifold??? Thats a big one, but like I said, I still want to maintain the daily driver status and not have to change and go all out, I want mid 12's is cool with me, and these two upgrades alone will take me into the low 12's. And then comesall the other expensive things for the LS1!!!!!

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

the intake manifold is a 30 minute swap, camshaft takes a lot more time, and since you've probably never done it before, it would take even longer.

when you do a cam swap, you need to research your butt off and get the right cam/springs/pushrods etc for exactly what YOU want. you will also need to get a good tune to go along with it. where do you live?

read all the stuff in JRP's signature if you havent already, its very informative.

00firebird

iTrader: (3)

i think you got it wrong, 100pds = .01

00SUPERSPORT

I live in the bay area, I have friends that know all about this stuff so that has been my best sources. As for installation, I wouldn't trust myself doing too much, I would take it in for the major changes, so I will do the research on cam/springs/pushrods etc, but what am I looking for when I am researching all of that?? by the way thanks for putting up with my questions . One day I will be able to school the newbie's!!!!

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

why the hell was i thinking .1 second? lol

:shoot self in head smiley here:

BlueSix

Uhh...it's roughly 100 lbs per .1 seconds.

juicedSS

iTrader: (18)

an aftermarket clutch would be a good idea prolly wont be long before u pop that 10 bolt