tatasta

iTrader: (24)

Just curious and hope someone can help me with a best estimate on the power my 99 TA is making. Car has 58,000 on it, A4 and following mods.
Cold air kit w/ SLP lid
Granetelli MAF
BBK 80MM TB
Mac long tubes
Loudmouth II no cats
Diablo custom tune

I also have stuff to still add and how much will it help:
1.85 SLP rockers
Titanium retainers
LS6 springs
LS6 intake.

Thanks!!!!!

z28fernando

to the rears ur prob making close to 35-360
with the other stuff u will prob be making 370

tatasta

iTrader: (24)

Thanks! Any thought on what crank hp would be and when the manufacturers advertise hp, do they go rwhp or crank?

football_dynasties

Crank, I believe.

300bhp/ton

no chance on either account.

Stang Killer

iTrader: (27)

werd! you arent makin that much i guarantee it

300bhp/ton

stock you're car should have been making in the region of 320-350bhp, that would be flywheel.

On a dyno it would depend on the type of dyno and any correction factors, but considering you have an auto then it's most likely in the region of 280-295rwhp stock.


As for you're mods, well:

Cold air kit w/ SLP lid - this should be worth something 5-10rwhp

Granetelli MAF - probably worth little or nothing, stocker is good for 500rwhp easy. This just fools the PCM into altering the air/fuel ratio and leans out the mixure so it might make more power on a stock motor but once you start adding other mods may actually hinder until you get a tune.

BBK 80MM TB - The stock LS1/Ls6 intakes only have a 75mm hole in them, so a stock ported TB would work just as well and cost less or nothing. It is probably worth 5rwhp though.

Mac long tubes - MAC don't make LT's do you mean mids??. Mids will have given you more power but LT's would offer more, espcially in the mid and low rpms.

Loudmouth II no cats - Probably worth 10rwhp or so, maybe more combined with the headers.

Diablo custom tune - is this actually custom to your setup?? If not it might not be helping much and may even hinder, but it depends what has been done to the tune.

I would think you have picked up a fairly solid 30rwhp overall, maybe more.

the LS6 intake is worth it and should see a healthy gain, espeically above 4500rpm. If you plan on doing a cam I'd probably not bother with the rockers however or the springs.

Remember an auto will never see as high rwhp numbers as a manual but they might both be making the same power at the engine.

346ci Ls1's don't tend to make much more than 400-410bhp SAE Net at the flywheel with bolt ons, the heads and cam become the restriction. This would be in the region of 340rwhp SAE (Mustang Dyno) and 360-365rwhp SAE on a Dynojet Dyno for a manual. An auto will be 15-25rwhp lower as a rule.

MrDavid

iTrader: (11)

^^ I still think you are estimating too high. I believe you will "maybe" put out 340 on a dynojet. I saw many F-bodies dyno last time I went to a dyno day and the highest dyno for just a bolt on car was 336hp. He had was running cut-outs too. And as far as a F-body with 400+hp on bolt'ons alone. I have never seen it, or heard of it. Unless you "bolted" on a supercharger.

00slowredz

honestly i think 340 might still be pushing it on a mustang dyno too.....from what i've heard, they dont like to give high numbers and that really isnt a lot of mods to make that kinda hp

300bhp/ton

lol, check the difference between flywheel SAE Net and rwhp numbers.

400bhp SAE Net would equal about 340rwhp SAE on a Mustang dyno giving a 60bhp loss thru the drivetrain. I think this is fairly fair a tallys up nicely with the often used (although not 100% accurate) 15% drivetrain loss rule.

This is based on a FULL* bolt on Ls1. Intake, exhaust, pulley, tune type of thing.


*Lightweight drivetrain components would increase rwhp, but not affect the engine at all.

Also things like electric fuel pumps will add a tad more but are often not considered amoung the "normal" bolt ons.

An auto won't see near those numbers though. And Dynojets generally offer highly inflated numbers when compared to SAE Net.

kyles2000z

iTrader: (8)

sorry bro but your not makin 360 rwhp like someone stated, id say around 330rwhp since your an A4. those springs, rockers, and retainers are gonna do you almost no good to swap out if youre not gonna get a bigger cam, or at least wouldnt be worth the pain of changing them if you arent gonna put a cam in while your at it. the LS6 intake will be a nice addition to your mods and will wake the car up some.

YellowMonster87

iTrader: (4)

how bout you "bolt" on some N20 ?????

MrDavid

iTrader: (11)

You aren't gonna see a 60 rwhp loss on a mustang dyno as opposed to a dynojet unless you have well over 400 hp. My car dyno'ed 350 on a mustang dyno untuned. After the tune it made 385 on a dynojet. Thats 35 more horsepower and a good tune which probably pulled at least 15 more horsepower alone. The SAE correction factor was set at 99 when I was on the dynojet. But getting back to the OP's question, if you are looking for numbers at the rear wheels which that is all you should want to know, you are probably only making 340hp on a dynojet and 310hp on a mustang dyno. That is a high end estimate.

300bhp/ton

eh?

I'm talking about DRIVETRAIN loss. Not the variation between dyno types.

A 400bhp SAE Net (because this is SAE Net it means at the flywheel) would equal about 340rwhp SAE on a Mustang Dyno or 364rwhp SAE on a Dynojet.

Well that's a lot, was this SAE corrected and what level of graph smoothing?

Not saying it isn't true, but not all dyno's are used 100% accuratly or correctly.

A hand formula I've found and tends to work well is this:

Mustang Dyno = Dynojet / 1.07

or

Dynojet = Mustang Dyno x 1.07

So 350rwhp on a Mustang Dyno would be equal to 375rwhp on a Dynojet, so 10rwhp gain from the tune sounds about right.

Although I would say these are strong numbers for a bolt on Ls1 and not the norm.

However the numbers to all tally up.

EDIT: are these numbers with a 224 cam as well?

MrDavid

iTrader: (11)

Yea, the numbers are after the cam install. That is why I said "untuned." If I just had bolt'ons I wouldn't waste my time with tuning the car because it would probably only pick up a few ponies. The A/F ratio was way off after the cam and the car would barley hold idle.

I have looked for the smoothing factor from the mustang dyno but it was not printed anywhere on the sheet but the correction factor was: Standard.

tatasta

iTrader: (24)

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the time and effort to answer my questions. I love my TA and get excited to drive it every weekend. I want it to be quick, which it really is compared to most things on the road. I finally am at a point where I can afford to do some work to it.

Any advice on what to do or where to go next would be great.

I've done alot of engine work, assembly and swaps on older Fs (73-1980). How bad are the LS's to drop, pull etc. for cams or heads?

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/652116-bolt-dyno-record.html

this will answer your ?? and prove a few wrong thread shows both m6 and a4 dynos

5_02ls1

iTrader: (20)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamometer-results-comparisons/462176-guys-bolt-only-cars.html

bene

iTrader: (16)

Get your car an aftermarket TC to wake your car up.

ArrestMeRed99Z28

iTrader: (1)

+1 on the torque converter. It will actually hurt you on the dyno but it sure will show up where it counts, when you're racin
AJ