shreveport/bossier hang out!
TECH Resident
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On another note, I'm not sure keying the crank will keep it from backing off. Generally, its used to keep the crank pulley from spinning on the crank in SC applications, for instance.
On The Tree
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I was thinking that it spinning is causing the bolt to come loose. The direction the crank turns would loosen the bolt if the balancer didn't move rather than tighten it. Correct me if I'm wrong
Also is the stock balancer sufficient for a a stroked motor or is an aftermarket a good idea. Cost doesn't matter anymore. I want it right
Also is the stock balancer sufficient for a a stroked motor or is an aftermarket a good idea. Cost doesn't matter anymore. I want it right
11 Second Club
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do you have to pull the pulley on with the bolt? or does it just slide on all the way till it seats? maybe its a few thousandths to large? are you sure the pulley is seating all the way on before you torque everything? I always used an old bolt like most, but always made sure it was all the way seated before i began to torque anything. I've owned 5 different balancers on 4 different cranks and never had a problem with them coming off. Makes me wonder if the crank is a hair to small. If you have ran other pulleys on the same motor and this is the first you have had a problem with it I would think its the balancer my self
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I wouldnt run a stock balancer on a stroked motor, seen too many of them cause bad harmonics and vibrations. If you choose, I have a keyed stock balancer you're welcome to try out if you want too
10 Second Club
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Stock balancer will work fine, but not sfi approved. The ATIs have had some problems. If harmonics are off, it will cause the bolt to come loose. But like Chris said, if it didn't have to be pressed on (slid right on), then the inner diameter is too loose. A balancer should never be put on by the bolt though. It should always be pressed on with a balancer installer. If it is pressed on by using a bolt, it can stretch the threads in the crank (which will still allow you to put it in by hand). Threads being stretched will make it so the crank bolt comes out. I have seen them come out due to threads being stretched, I have seen them come out due to the bolt being stretched, bolt not being torqued properly, pulley being put on by the bolt instead of pressed, balancer being out of balance, and balancer coming apart. Every one of those scenarios I have personally witnessed and had to repair for customers.
11 Second Club
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I wish I had my camaro here in Puerto Rico. The racing scene is ricers but worse than the ones at fant! I'm talking Toyota Echos slammed with wheels and thats all friend told me that every once in a while a beast f-body will roll out would like to meet those guys.
Teching In
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SBC, LA / CENTRAL FL
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sounds like Guam. All the "race machines", seem to be lil Toy pickups. Which are actually kinda cool.... built turbo 4s and ****. Most of the "scene" consists of scion tC's and **** haha
9 Second Club
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Ive been thru that a couple times with my car. 275FTLBS and itll never come off again. I had to hold the flywheel with a flywheel wrench and my buddy used the tq wrench with a chater bar. But I havent had any issues since.
11 Second Club
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Well there is a hole in my oil pan....7400 rpms are no good LOL. 60 roll it I held it in second and bumped it to late I guess for this gay 98 computer to shift so it hit the rev limiter that was @ 7400.
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Need LS1 Flex plate bolts
Need some ARP Flex plate to crank bolts.My car is over in Shreveport .... getting a new transmission installed.I bought a new TSI flex plate w/the crank spacer and bolts .... but jegs sent stock bolts.I need some arp's.Jason that works @ PTAC is doing the work for me.I am going to order some tonight but it will be Wednesday before they get here .Jason checked everywhere he could think of n Shreveport but could not find any.It would help speed things up if I could find some ARP bolts.Anybody got any or know where I can get some in Shreveport.......thanks