Best N2O motor for $10K-ish
#1
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What would it be? I have my ideas, but want to hear what you guys think. Let's try to keep it under $10K for the long block
With me getting orders back to the states in November, I think I'm gonna celebrate by going big cubes this winter. I've been stashing money away in mason jars in the backyard for the last few years, and I think this is my budget. I would like to stay with a cathedral port head because I just had all that intake work done. I know it's a small piece of the puzzle, but I'm quite fond of it.
I'm looking to be able to hit it with 400-450 total once the tune is dialed in. Is this reasonable with a 4 bolt head? Solid or hydraulic roller?
I'm just trying to go fast.
With me getting orders back to the states in November, I think I'm gonna celebrate by going big cubes this winter. I've been stashing money away in mason jars in the backyard for the last few years, and I think this is my budget. I would like to stay with a cathedral port head because I just had all that intake work done. I know it's a small piece of the puzzle, but I'm quite fond of it.
I'm looking to be able to hit it with 400-450 total once the tune is dialed in. Is this reasonable with a 4 bolt head? Solid or hydraulic roller?
I'm just trying to go fast.
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#2
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hey tinker bell...plenty of guys are pushing 400 on 4 bolts heads, especially with 1/2" studs. Hopefully you get Mcquire so we can help you out with this, lord knows you need it
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#6
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39X ls2 or 7 if you catch a deal on the block with a callies crank comp star rods weisco nitrous pistons(~$4000). Et Ls7's(~$3500 with good springs) with a decent solid roller(~$3K). I know 500 to much but worht it. easy mid 8 second combo.
Or at the end of the season our(ATv's) 396 bottom will be for sale for a good price.We could set you up a deal on a long block setup....
Or at the end of the season our(ATv's) 396 bottom will be for sale for a good price.We could set you up a deal on a long block setup....
#7
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8.50's is the # I'm looking for, but I remember the last guy that came in here and said he was going to run 8's
He got killed by you guys LOL I'm really looking at an aluminum based motor to keep my weight in check, just don't know about a motor that's heavy on the stroke. Should that be a concern?
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#10
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If I had it to do over I would build the same bottom end I have now. (on your budget)
For the money you cant beat the iron block, if you go alum. They probably need to trick it up some (1/2 studs, pin caps ...etc.) which will add to the cost. Spend your money on a the best heads you can buy. Also solid roller is a must!!
Mine is a 4.025 bore, 3.9 crank, stock size studs .... has had more than 400 thru it with the 4 bolt set up and NEVER had a head gasket issue.
We are looking at building a BIG bottom end for next year but I think it will be close to 10thou. just for the short block.
For the money you cant beat the iron block, if you go alum. They probably need to trick it up some (1/2 studs, pin caps ...etc.) which will add to the cost. Spend your money on a the best heads you can buy. Also solid roller is a must!!
Mine is a 4.025 bore, 3.9 crank, stock size studs .... has had more than 400 thru it with the 4 bolt set up and NEVER had a head gasket issue.
We are looking at building a BIG bottom end for next year but I think it will be close to 10thou. just for the short block.
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#11
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hey ATV when you guys change over at the end of the season, please hit me up about your old setup and maybe we can work something out. Your combo will work perfect for what I want to do.
As for what I would do, I have been thinking about this over the last couple weeks, and I also like the 39x cubic inch designs and it should go plenty fast.
As for what I would do, I have been thinking about this over the last couple weeks, and I also like the 39x cubic inch designs and it should go plenty fast.
#13
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this may be a noob question but where do you get a 3.875 crank from? All the rotating assemblies is see are either stock, 4.0, or 4.1. Scat has a 4.250 but i havent seen anyone with that yet.
Is that a custom crank?
Is that a custom crank?
#15
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hey ATV when you guys change over at the end of the season, please hit me up about your old setup and maybe we can work something out. Your combo will work perfect for what I want to do.
As for what I would do, I have been thinking about this over the last couple weeks, and I also like the 39x cubic inch designs and it should go plenty fast.
As for what I would do, I have been thinking about this over the last couple weeks, and I also like the 39x cubic inch designs and it should go plenty fast.
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#18
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Honestly I'm getting all the parts together to get the car to 2900 lbs with me in it for next year, which will be about 450 lbs lighter then it was when I ran it last.
Problem is... if I go to an iron block I'm looking at putting 150 lbs back into the car, if I fill the alum one I'll still be a good 100 lbs lighter then if I went to a filled iron block... and I dunno if I want to put that much weight back in after spending all the $ to get it to 2900.
I'm thinking either ls7 or a C5R and have it set up for 6 bolt heads, possibly an ERL block. I like the looks of a tall deck RHS, but with the bore only being able to go to 4.16 I'd have to do a 4.1 bore/4.1 stroke, with the tall deck the stroke wouldn't be a problem other then it just being a long stroke motor that isn't gonna want to turn alot of rpm. Which could be good, but also may not be.
Still up in the air, as I have about 5 grand and an assload of work to get the car done before I have to worry about anything motor wise.
I do have a possible lead on a hendrick R07 motor
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this is my nitrous setup that i had built by HKE for a 400+ shot of nitrous. I might be interested in selling it too if your interested. 0 miles never been cranked
408 iron block
Bore and Stroke: 4.030 4”
Static Compression: 11.60: 1
L92 flat top Wesico nitrous pistons with gfx rings
Piston deck height: 1.115 (.010 out of the hole)
Pistons fly-cut with valve reliefs?[ ] CC amount: 3cc
Callies 6.125 long H-Beam
Callies Compstar crank
WCCH L92 Heads
ARP head head studs
Morel Link Bar Lifters
Manton Push Rods
Melling Oil Pump
N-Motion Double Roller
Beck Sheetmetal intake w/ some N2O from Nitrous Outlet
238/250 .6xx 6xx Patrick G cam
Kooks 17/8" stepped t 2" with 3.5" collectors
408 iron block
Bore and Stroke: 4.030 4”
Static Compression: 11.60: 1
L92 flat top Wesico nitrous pistons with gfx rings
Piston deck height: 1.115 (.010 out of the hole)
Pistons fly-cut with valve reliefs?[ ] CC amount: 3cc
Callies 6.125 long H-Beam
Callies Compstar crank
WCCH L92 Heads
ARP head head studs
Morel Link Bar Lifters
Manton Push Rods
Melling Oil Pump
N-Motion Double Roller
Beck Sheetmetal intake w/ some N2O from Nitrous Outlet
238/250 .6xx 6xx Patrick G cam
Kooks 17/8" stepped t 2" with 3.5" collectors
#20
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this is my nitrous setup that i had built by HKE for a 400+ shot of nitrous. I might be interested in selling it too if your interested. 0 miles never been cranked
408 iron block
Bore and Stroke: 4.030 4”
Static Compression: 11.60: 1
L92 flat top Wesico nitrous pistons with gfx rings
Piston deck height: 1.115 (.010 out of the hole)
Pistons fly-cut with valve reliefs?[ ] CC amount: 3cc
Callies 6.125 long H-Beam
Callies Compstar crank
WCCH L92 Heads
ARP head head studs
Morel Link Bar Lifters
Manton Push Rods
Melling Oil Pump
N-Motion Double Roller
Beck Sheetmetal intake w/ some N2O from Nitrous Outlet
238/250 .6xx 6xx Patrick G cam
Kooks 17/8" stepped t 2" with 3.5" collectors
408 iron block
Bore and Stroke: 4.030 4”
Static Compression: 11.60: 1
L92 flat top Wesico nitrous pistons with gfx rings
Piston deck height: 1.115 (.010 out of the hole)
Pistons fly-cut with valve reliefs?[ ] CC amount: 3cc
Callies 6.125 long H-Beam
Callies Compstar crank
WCCH L92 Heads
ARP head head studs
Morel Link Bar Lifters
Manton Push Rods
Melling Oil Pump
N-Motion Double Roller
Beck Sheetmetal intake w/ some N2O from Nitrous Outlet
238/250 .6xx 6xx Patrick G cam
Kooks 17/8" stepped t 2" with 3.5" collectors