Dry shot!!!!!
1) nitrous outlet halo spray bar kit (DRY)
2)nitrous outlet dual stage window switch
3)nitrous outlet purge kit
4) harris speed work bottle heater
i was told dry kit was a great set up for starters which i'm proud to say that i am. i only have a few questions to ask.
1) how many of you guys preffer dry over wet (trust me i've tried search)
2)i am going to be running a 383 the start of the summer
what can i do to stick with dry but increase my shot to maybe a 200 or maybe even more.3) is there a way to tell how much timing i should be pulling?
p.s. i hang out with a bunch of different car guys hondas,dms,subies,evos,stis,fords,etc.... they all give me **** for running dry, i tried explain im new to this and i wanted to start out slow but they still told me im going to F#&K my motor up with dry and i tried telling them that dry is sometimes safer can someone give me any facts about that
Are you saying you dont need the interface, lean shutoff (which is crap) and wideband if it were a wet system?
1) nitrous outlet halo spray bar kit (DRY)
2)nitrous outlet dual stage window switch
3)nitrous outlet purge kit
4) harris speed work bottle heater
i was told dry kit was a great set up for starters which i'm proud to say that i am. i only have a few questions to ask.
1) how many of you guys preffer dry over wet (trust me i've tried search)
2)i am going to be running a 383 the start of the summer
what can i do to stick with dry but increase my shot to maybe a 200 or maybe even more.3) is there a way to tell how much timing i should be pulling?
p.s. i hang out with a bunch of different car guys hondas,dms,subies,evos,stis,fords,etc.... they all give me **** for running dry, i tried explain im new to this and i wanted to start out slow but they still told me im going to F#&K my motor up with dry and i tried telling them that dry is sometimes safer can someone give me any facts about that
2) Depends on current set up and if it will max out components. Also depends on what other mods, ecu, etc.
3) Spark plugs. There are general rules but that can really be tossed out the window when people start advancing their timing n/a.
Nick
and an interface would be completely pointless on a wet kit as well...do you even know what the interface does? and if so, explain to me how that would have anything to do with a wet kit? it commands the factory fuel system to compensate automatically for the dry kit when activated..
a lean shutoff switch is also a good idea, not sure what you would think its crap?
and last, yeah your right, a wideband is a good idea with a wet kit as well, but i never said it was only for a dry kit..
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and an interface would be completely pointless on a wet kit as well...do you even know what the interface does? and if so, explain to me how that would have anything to do with a wet kit? it commands the factory fuel system to compensate automatically for the dry kit when activated..
a lean shutoff switch is also a good idea, not sure what you would think its crap?
and last, yeah your right, a wideband is a good idea with a wet kit as well, but i never said it was only for a dry kit..
I'll humor you ....
You said fuel system not injectors.... fuel needs for 150 shot is the same wet or dry doesnt matter.
Interface can be used to pull timing, very important !
At what point does the lean shut off work? do you even know?
Why not have a rich shut off? you wont hurt it rich right? lol
I have forgot more about spraying a DRY shot then you know.
in 2006 ..2 stage DRY (250 shot, 2 single nozzles before the MAF) on stock computer pump gas ....
Here is the video http://www.glenburnieracing.com/videos/gb1.asx
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I would run a dry shot again, but I would not rely on the maf to add fuel. I would add fuel via hp tuners using my iat tricker.
what exactly happend? is there anyway to make my spray bar set up safe...





