lsxTAlemy

iTrader: (2)

i did a google search and didn't get much info. i was originally going to build a 370ci for nitrous but i came across a good deal on an ls1 short block for 200 lq9 i haven't see under 700 what do u guys say. im looking to run around 300shot on it dual stage. goal is to hit the low 9.'s high 8.9X's

now i have read that u cant bore an ls1 and/or if u do u cant run nitrous or boost. what can u guys recommend me to do 383 is more cubes, but if i cant hit it with the nitrous then i don't want it. what would i have to do or should stay 370?

what I'm really asking witch one can i build more reliably. the car will see some street, but minimal. like once a month beach cruise that's about it.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

To run those kinds of numbers you are going to need to be sub 3200 lbs and you are probably going to need a little more than a 300 shot. Then you will need the know how in tuning that 300 to get it to work for you on the track.

If you are starting out fresh you might just want to go 408 and it will make it there with a little less spray on it. Which in turn will make a it a little more reliable

There is a reason you are finding ls1 blocks so cheap right now. It's because there is only so much you can do with an ls1 block. Even with an overbore you are limited on head choice plus its the same amount of money to build a 383 all the way up to a 418.

The only thing an ls1 block is good for these days is to send off to get re-sleeved to do a hardcore build.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

If I were you I'd also go with the biggest cubic inch your wallet can allow so you don't need to spray a metric ton of nitrous to run the numbers you want.

You also won't have to spin it as hard or as high in the rpm range, and that means you won't need as high dollar or higher strength parts and it should last longer.

Go with a LQ4 block(same thing as a LQ9) and use SDPC's 408 package. Put a set of ported heads on it and go play. 200-250 shot at 3400lb raceweight if you can make it run the front half decently with a 408 SHOULD go low 9's, but then again I have seen some that can't make it out of the 10's.

Me personally I am building a 370. LQ4 6.0 block, stock 3.622 crank, 4.030 bore, Olliver rods, super victor, nasty solid roller 25x/27x .700"+/.700"+ 115lsa 110icl cam, Induction solutions dual stage plate or NO spray bar plenum system with a direct port and whatever set of stock castings I can get my hands on decently cheap to let Brian Tooley work his magic on with that all important nitrous exhaust port.

That set-up will spin 8500rpm and should make close to 750hp on the engine dyno. More cubes would be nice, but I don't have the big bucks to buy a set of heads to really support bigger cubes.

You will want something that spins 6800-7000rpm max, hydraulic roller, Fast style intake, you won't need billet rods as H-beams will work fine, but for a stroker you will need a stroker crank.

lsxTAlemy

iTrader: (2)

I already have a victor jr. im pretty much swapping the stuf i have in the ls1 right now. like intake headers under drive all the basic bolt on's to what ever is is that i build. i had in mind the 370 iv read in some threads there cranks hold about 850 900 hp. so i thought to just drop in rods pistons and some milled and ported 243s on it and hit over the head with 250 300

id love to build a 408 but i don't think my pockets go so deep im going to do some search and see

what can i spend and a decent rotating assembly for a 408 ?

also they told me the rod lengths are critical on these motors ?

lsxTAlemy

iTrader: (2)

so by re sleeving an ls1 u can make a go all the way to 418 or did i get it wrong. my original thing was to do a 370 but like i had said good deal 200 ls1 motor so that's why im here asking.

the long run more reliable bigger cube right ?
the tuner that i have kinda knows his ways around the big cube nitrous and things like that. tuning im not really worried about as i seen this guy work on some pretty good cars locally.

lsxTAlemy

iTrader: (2)

would i be good getting this the way it comes or what should i upgrade? are there are any other places i can look at better pricing?

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-1016-ts...-assembly.aspx

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Use the vic jr. then.

The stock cranks have been known to hold well over 1000rwhp and in some cases I have seen 1200-1300rwhp out of one. They are strong.

You can put a good set of rods and pistons in a 6.0 and bore it .030 over and make a 370, put ported 243's on it and spray it. You can still turn it 6800-7000 and not put a lot of stress on it, but it won't make the power the bigger motor will off the jug and down low, so it will need more nitrous to run the number you want.

The bigger motor won't need to be turned as hard, will be more docile and still run the same number if not a better one.

It's how you want to tune the set-up to get the end result.

The reason they probably said the rod length is critical is in a stroker application with a iron block, when the piston is at BDC the skirt of the piston is actually hanging out of the bottom of the cylinder and if there isn't enough compression height(actual meat under the ring lands) on the piston then the skirt get's made smaller and smaller as the compression height goes away. Now with the longer stroke, small compression height and thin skirt material it can rock at the bottom of the hole thus wearing out the piston skirt and allowing oil past the rings making it a oil consuming nightmare of a motor. Coatings on the skirt have come along way thus has piston design to help stave this off.

If you can get the compression height right, keep it at 4.0 stroke or less and have a great engine builder that really knows iron ls strokers it can be kept to a minimum and will never be a problem.

An aluminum motor like a ls2 or ls1 has a longer sleeve so this problem isn't as bad on the aluminum motors.

A LS1 block can be re-sleeved and can accept a bore that will go 427 c.i. with the right sized stroke crank.

lsxTAlemy

iTrader: (2)

damn thanks for all the info man this is were it gets confusing for me lol all the lengths and stuff. im a do it your self type person. me and my brother did v6 to ls1 the heads and cam swap on on his car so. im aiming on doing the most i can on my own on my motor. to keep the price down. i got the engine stand already been looking for a fairly cheap 6.0 lq9 or 4 but haven't had any luck not even seeing any locally. all this info helps me out lots

now will the rotating assy that i posted from Texas speed hold ? what would i have to add for it to hold the power im looking for? what would i have to change in the kit to not run in to piston sleeve issue?

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Good for you that you do it yourself. I have a couple friends that without them I wouldn't be able to do any of this stuff to my car. We are the same, don't pay for the labor, buy the part that has been used once or twice from the guy going to the next newest and best thing and buy his old part for a steal.

You'll have more luck finding an LQ4.

Here is another bit of info. The aluminum blocks have a longer sleeve so they don't have as bad of a problem rocking in the bore at BDC if a 6.125" rod(most ls engines use this length) and 4.0" stroke crank is used. If you start leaning towards a 4.125" crank your right back in the same boat.

The only true fix to any of this is to have the block sleeved by an aftermarket company like R.E.D., Darton or ERL. They explain some of this here on Darton's website http://www.dartonsleeves.com/midinfo.html

Their sleeves are longer which eliminates the rocking in the bore problem at BDC, but the sleeves have to clear counter weights on the crank so they need to be machined and notched once they are installed. Not any old shop can sleeve a block either. Well, maybe they can, but it won't be worth a damn.

This is about as far as I can take you with information. I am not an engine builder by far and this is just stuff I have read and learned over the years from what other engine builders have said. Your best bet will be to talk to a real engine builder like HKE, LME, AES, Kurt Urban, Billy Briggs, etc. etc. the list goes on for days.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Your TSP package could be made better and still stay in the lower end price range by upgrading to a Lunati Crankshaft which is +155, Lunati H-beams 6.125" with arp 2000 rod bolts for +100, Wiseco 4.030" 5+cc dome piston +65, coated bearings are 339+ non coated are 179+.

I'd have it balanced locally once you have the block.

lsxTAlemy

iTrader: (2)

thanks man lots of good info. u think any of those guys give me any info knowing i would like to build it my self? i know there are alot of people here that like to shear info but i also know alot of people that don't really like to say stuff.

would i be good calling Texas speed and telling them more or less what i want and be done with it ?

if i would go 408 ported 243 would be out of the question or would i still be good. i know there like the best flowing stock casting when ported...

lsxTAlemy

iTrader: (2)

what would u guys think about the 243s ported for the 408 ?

dmelvin

iTrader: (8)

You can resleeve an LS1 to bigger than that. Darton sleeves will let you go to something like a 4.160 bore iirc.

I'm going to be using a set of stage 2.5 5.3 heads for my 383. Shoot someone at Texas Speed an email and ask, they'll let you know. I asked if I needed to go with the 2.5 LS6 heads or the 5.3 heads, they said the 5.3 heads would flow enough for the 383, so at least I know they didn't try to screw me.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Are you running a Vic Jr. with an elbow on your car?

lsxTAlemy

iTrader: (2)

yea for now yes will upgrade to a 4 barrel tb when i get a chance

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

Probably not. That is how they make their money. They have their own clearances that they know work within a given set-up and that info is going to be proprietary.

I'm pretty sure there are how-to step by step books at stores like Borders and B.A.M. that have good info on clearances and machining a motor like you want to do yourself.

Nothing against Texas Speed personally, but I am just not a fan of mail order engines especially one that is going to have a power adder on it.

Find someone semi-local or local that is well known, respected and mainly liked with great ON TRACK customer service.

There are several builders like this where I live and they will come to the track with you and tune it until it works and runs like you want it to and paid for. Usually just by having them build the motor and paying them for that is all that is needed for their customer support.

At least that is the type of grass roots customer support I am used to seeing here in NC from shops like RPM, HED, HRE, Fastlane, etc. etc.

The person you choose to build your motor should be someone you would choose to be your good friend. Your going to be trusting him with a lot of money and hard work that can be screwed up, blown up, and un done very quickly in seconds down the track.

lsxTAlemy

iTrader: (2)

ok im going to be looking in to that. do u have any of the books names or anything like that. id like to study the most i can, before i jump in to it any good chevy ls engine building books? let me know. in trusting im not very good at it. i live in miami and there aren't many people to trust hear. might have only one person ill have to talk to him.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Just found this since you are in Miami. There are a few shops near you.

http://www.gmhightechperformance.com...ene/index.html

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I have no clue what the names of the books are.

Your best bet will be to go to Books a Million, Borders or B&N and look in that section that has the books on different cars/motorsports/offroading/drag racing etc. not the magazines, but books.

Ask the employees there. I'm sure they can point you in the right direction

KC&97TA

iTrader: (1)

I run 243's done to a stage 2 by TEA... they work, track numbers speak for themselves

https://ls1tech.com/forums/13995585-post212.html

https://ls1tech.com/forums/15440658-post256.html

You're on the right track, 402-408 nice simple combo.

I'm running a small cam, small stall combo - it's DD / wife friendly, car's sitting at about 3800lbs w/o driver.

Plan to do some weight reduction (nothing crazy) and Afco DA front and rear, then put the 92mm Nitrous Outlet plate kit on, I have everything except the standalone, window switch and some small stuff... looking for 9.9x in a DD friendly street car, may even put the front swaybar back on.


To change a few things (on the next build or in hind sight) I'd have gone to a 414-418 motor, much larger or a stage 3 head or LS3 heads, little bit more cam and a 3600 yank stall.