My Stock shortblock/cubic inch cam-only entry:) 56k beware
05-27-2012, 04:04 PM
#21
that is a sweet, light setup. I have been reading and watching your progress with the times in the car. Keeps getting faster. Nice to see more and more people give these lil 346s a chance at going fast.
Keep up the good work.. And forget all the haters that say you bought and didnt build, you will always have people who are jealous and find some way to put someone else down.
Keep up the good work.. And forget all the haters that say you bought and didnt build, you will always have people who are jealous and find some way to put someone else down.
His opinion was that since I bought the car and didn't build it, the advice I give out to people on the boards isn't worthy of merit and I have no clue what I am talking about since I didn't build it myself.
05-27-2012, 07:01 PM
#24
Well as I promised here are the updated pictures of how the car sits now. These are Holeshot Revolver wheels, and their anodized black hub caps up front. 15x3.5" fronts 15x10 modular rears. I have another wider hoop here at the house for both rear wheels that I can utilize if I take the wheels apart. They are 3 piece and this hoop would make them 15x12's. Haven't done it yet, but I will when I get beadlocks. Although there is a racer I know personally that uses 15x12's on 275's with no bead locks for 4 races now and hasn't popped a bead yet.
Here are a couple undershot hoods showing the Nitrous Outlet 92mm plate, NO solenoids, NO purge, Trick window switch, nitrous and bottle heater relays and associated lines and wiring. The two-step/transbrake relay is mounted on the interior side of the HVAC delete plate near the floor/carpet line.
Here is a picture showing where the front frame rail stops and where the tube starts. Legal for all 275 radial classes.
Here are a couple interior shots with the bottle bracket, NO bottle heater, -4an line, filter and switch panel along with my line lock switch, transbrake button(on the switch panel) and my line lock hold button is on the shifter. I have found with the transbrake button on the switch panel I am able to lift my hand off the button and it has gotten me my fastest reaction times ever.
And here are the last ones I took of the wheels. Just 3 close-ups. RTCTTFMF!!!
Also in these last two pictures you can see where the rear wheel wells have been opened up and enlarged. The inner fender has had extensive modification also. Minshall used to run a 30x9 slick before he switched to the radials.
I have no doubt that if push came to shove and I really needed some big boy traction for a grudge race at some **** hole track or even on a hot greasy track, I could put a 29.5x10.50W on there and throw the wider hoop on and make my wheels 12" to really take advantage of that footprint. I'm confident though that I can get it done on a 275/60 radial no matter what. And we all know that radials are better anyways
Besides I get a sense of pride getting it done on a 275 radial especially when I get people asking me all the time how do you make it hook all the time so consistently? It's all in how you set it up. Ever since I got this nitrous tune-up figured out the car hasn't spun one time. I'm hoping to make it out this coming Saturday.
Last edited by Fbodyjunkie06; 05-28-2012 at 12:04 AM.
05-27-2012, 11:55 PM
#28
Hey now your slow **** is still faster than my slower ****!!!
The 6000 stall on motor for sure made it race car status, the new nitrous stall though makes it really nice to drive.
All I need now are some real mufflers. I'm going to try and take some suspension pictures tomorrow and take some shots of how the exhaust is now or what little there is.
The 6000 stall on motor for sure made it race car status, the new nitrous stall though makes it really nice to drive.
All I need now are some real mufflers. I'm going to try and take some suspension pictures tomorrow and take some shots of how the exhaust is now or what little there is.
05-28-2012, 12:39 AM
#30
**** I'm hoping when the .099 pill goes in I get a a new background too!
Only I'm hoping for a picture with the front end tied down tight and the candles lit coming out from under the car!!!
I don't think I've seen a stock bottom end car yet with that pretty blue flame coming out the mufflers, I hope to be the first
05-28-2012, 12:48 AM
#32
Question for you guys...how many of you think the car would look better with the windows tinted?
It's not a street car, but it is insured, tagged and registered. I was thinking 25% on the driver and passenger windows, and 5% on the back glass and a 5% tint strip at legal height.
I really like the silver and black theme if you can't tell and I am also wanting to get some head lights with black housings. Anyone know if you can do the whistler mod easily? I have a spare set of stock head lights I can mess up if I want. I think with the black tail lights, if I had black headlights and tinted windows it would really look even better.
It's not a street car, but it is insured, tagged and registered. I was thinking 25% on the driver and passenger windows, and 5% on the back glass and a 5% tint strip at legal height.
I really like the silver and black theme if you can't tell and I am also wanting to get some head lights with black housings. Anyone know if you can do the whistler mod easily? I have a spare set of stock head lights I can mess up if I want. I think with the black tail lights, if I had black headlights and tinted windows it would really look even better.
05-28-2012, 12:50 AM
#33
Josh@KYTP fabbed up the entire CAI induction himself out of 4" aluminum tubing.
I bet it is worth something, I have wanted to take it off to see the difference.
I do know this. If I'm wearing a pair of basketball shorts and I whack the throttle with the hood popped standing in front of it, it sucks my shorts into it like the baddest ******* vacuum cleaner on the planet. At idle it will plaster your hand against it.
05-28-2012, 01:02 AM
#34
I didn't install it so I do not know of the gains.
Josh@KYTP fabbed up the entire CAI induction himself out of 4" aluminum tubing.
I bet it is worth something, I have wanted to take it off to see the difference.
I do know this. If I'm wearing a pair of basketball shorts and I whack the throttle with the hood popped standing in front of it, it sucks my shorts into it like the baddest ******* vacuum cleaner on the planet. At idle it will plaster your hand against it.
Josh@KYTP fabbed up the entire CAI induction himself out of 4" aluminum tubing.
I bet it is worth something, I have wanted to take it off to see the difference.
I do know this. If I'm wearing a pair of basketball shorts and I whack the throttle with the hood popped standing in front of it, it sucks my shorts into it like the baddest ******* vacuum cleaner on the planet. At idle it will plaster your hand against it.
05-28-2012, 01:19 AM
#36
Thank you.
I'm going to be documenting the gains I get when I swap my current 239/247 .623/.623 110lsa 110icl lsl/lsl lobed all-motor cam out for a bad *** custom grind I came up with tailored specifically for nitrous. Maybe I will take the velocity stack off also and run it once without it to see before I swap the cam out.
I'm going to be documenting the gains I get when I swap my current 239/247 .623/.623 110lsa 110icl lsl/lsl lobed all-motor cam out for a bad *** custom grind I came up with tailored specifically for nitrous. Maybe I will take the velocity stack off also and run it once without it to see before I swap the cam out.
05-28-2012, 07:25 AM
#39
1. Check the rule book NHRA / IHRA. Most important may not get to race depending on tint darkness!
2. It gets pretty dark in the pit areas at most tracks. Watch out for little kids and other cars!!
3. At night when you are index racing and need to check up on your opponet tinted windows make it more difficult. Lose the race and have to go home!!!
N2