My Stock shortblock/cubic inch cam-only entry:) 56k beware
#101
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I glanced at the gauge once the entire time I was running and IIRC it was top of 1st or 2nd and I think it said 12.8 I am not sure though.
-4 main line to nitrous solenoid, -4 from solenoid to plate, -4 from rail to solenoid, upgrade to -4 from solenoid to plate on fuel side Sunday.
#102
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Yes carter and I both ran 255 with hot wire. I ran that up to a 103 jet and him to a 93 jet. Keep going at it, but it ain't the converter or camshaft that will make a huge difference I can tell you that at the size shot you are at. 10-12% at the 1/8 is actually pretty tight. Many are in the 14-16% range and 6-7% in the quarter. Just keep working on it and it will come around. Plugs need more timing
Makes me feel better hearing that about the stall also. I asked Smith what his thoughts were on the amount of slip and he said the same that it wasn't bad.
I think 2* for a total of 8* timing retard will be better performance and plug wise. You think all in all those plugs look ok though? Not horrible, better than my first couple sets?
#103
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It really helps to have your help, cams help, carter and all the rest of you guys and my local buddies to lend an opinion or hand.
So 1100 psi is a no no?
I know you said 950 in your response to my PM, when I am running the Nano next time from what I've read it's going to put it at 1050, but it will keep it constant.
I still think the 46f jet is too much fuel jet. Won't it be richer with lower pressure also?
#104
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I totally forgot about the bottle pressure part. Why 1100? Even though it is the 1/8 you are still going to have a larger pressure drop then start at 900-950? Plus it's harder in most scenarios to keep the bottle that hot and at that psi to be consistent with your tuneups
I will run it 900-950.
I am going to run my buddies Nano though next time out as I said in my previous post it will most likely put it at 1050 from what I have gathered.
#105
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Like others have mentioned 1100lbs for bottle pressure is way too much.
I have found that running a low bottle pressure works much better and is way easier to duplicate, plus an added benefit is that the pressure doesn't fall as much during the course of a run. Next time you go to the track, put a nice fresh set of plugs in and make a pass at 900lbs bottle pressure. After the run (as usual) pull the plug, most likely it will be really rich. Depending on what the plug looks like take 1 jet size out and check again, repeat if necessary. Try this before you put more nitrous into it.
I have found that running a low bottle pressure works much better and is way easier to duplicate, plus an added benefit is that the pressure doesn't fall as much during the course of a run. Next time you go to the track, put a nice fresh set of plugs in and make a pass at 900lbs bottle pressure. After the run (as usual) pull the plug, most likely it will be really rich. Depending on what the plug looks like take 1 jet size out and check again, repeat if necessary. Try this before you put more nitrous into it.
I will try that for sure when I don't run the nano.
Seems to be the general consensus that no one runs that high of bottle pressure and uses between 850-950psi to keep it consistent and less pressure drop.
I saw a post in the nitrous section of YB and a guy said he ran 850psi at the start of the run and it was 822 at the end. Drop of 28psi that is a small margin.
#107
I honestly don't know.
I glanced at the gauge once the entire time I was running and IIRC it was top of 1st or 2nd and I think it said 12.8 I am not sure though.
-4 main line to nitrous solenoid, -4 from solenoid to plate, -4 from rail to solenoid, upgrade to -4 from solenoid to plate on fuel side Sunday.
I glanced at the gauge once the entire time I was running and IIRC it was top of 1st or 2nd and I think it said 12.8 I am not sure though.
-4 main line to nitrous solenoid, -4 from solenoid to plate, -4 from rail to solenoid, upgrade to -4 from solenoid to plate on fuel side Sunday.
#108
fbod - fwiw, we also like to run between 900-950 psi in the bottle. We're pulling 10deg out, w/ total timing on a 200shot being 18*. Our plugs look almost identical, plan to pull a deg or two to see what happens. tow rig looks mean!
#109
Ok that makes me feel a lot better then. I thought I had read that in Carter's GMHTP feature, I didn't know you ran one also.
Makes me feel better hearing that about the stall also. I asked Smith what his thoughts were on the amount of slip and he said the same that it wasn't bad.
I think 2* for a total of 8* timing retard will be better performance and plug wise. You think all in all those plugs look ok though? Not horrible, better than my first couple sets?
Makes me feel better hearing that about the stall also. I asked Smith what his thoughts were on the amount of slip and he said the same that it wasn't bad.
I think 2* for a total of 8* timing retard will be better performance and plug wise. You think all in all those plugs look ok though? Not horrible, better than my first couple sets?
Yea they are ok, I would feel fine pulling them out of the car but knowing I need to do a lot to that tuneup to get it right. It seems you are more worried about the first sixty feet, you need to leave that alone and work on the tuneup. 1.30 is great, get it to run right and then turn around and work in the sixty foot if you feel there is more left in it.
Also Im not sure why you are gonna run Nano, all the tuneup info you learn on the Nano won't be helpful when you don't use it... just some food for thought.
good luck sir
#110
edit treed by cam
#111
Thanks for your help and for the response to my PM.
It really helps to have your help, cams help, carter and all the rest of you guys and my local buddies to lend an opinion or hand.
So 1100 psi is a no no?
I know you said 950 in your response to my PM, when I am running the Nano next time from what I've read it's going to put it at 1050, but it will keep it constant.
I still think the 46f jet is too much fuel jet. Won't it be richer with lower pressure also?
It really helps to have your help, cams help, carter and all the rest of you guys and my local buddies to lend an opinion or hand.
So 1100 psi is a no no?
I know you said 950 in your response to my PM, when I am running the Nano next time from what I've read it's going to put it at 1050, but it will keep it constant.
I still think the 46f jet is too much fuel jet. Won't it be richer with lower pressure also?
No problem, glad to help.
You dont need a nano, just one more pain in the *** to fill and keep track of.
If you want more power just put a bigger jet in it.
Less bottle pressure will richen up up a little, not much.
The 2* of timing will lean it out a little also thats why I suggested to put bottle at 950psi add 2* and make a pass to see what the plugs look like.
You dont want to make to many changes at one time.
And from the looks of that plug the tune isnt to far off so small changes from here on out.
#112
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I will say this after looking at the size difference between a -3 line and fitting versus a -4 line and fitting that difference is huge, I can only imagine the difference in a -4 to a -6.
When I pony up the coin for a quarter turn valve, fittings, and big 5" nitrous pressure gauge from Induction Solutions I am going to change the -4 main line to a -6.
Now as far as the afr being too lean. Here are my thoughts on that.
So far as you have seen in this thread, Cam and ATV both are saying that it needs timing/and or leaned out to get more heat in the plug. Looking at the plug it is getting close and will just need a few fine changes to get right.
If you just look at the number 12.8 and tell yourself oh that's too lean without even knowing what the plug looks like how do you really know that is too lean? It could still be pig rich(not likely but....) or it could be way too lean and starting to nip electrodes off the plug.
You won't know for sure until you read your plugs and you really have to either pull them on the return road or tow it back.
The difference in how a plug looks being towed up and back and one that was driven up and back on the same tune-up is huge. Driving it up and back will make it look rich when in all reality it could be lean down track and you're leaning it out more or adding more timing and kaboom next pass.
Plug reading is critical then reference the wide band and what it says during the run.
#113
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LOL I'm glad you like my tow rig, I think if the car weighed anymore the poor thing wouldn't be able to take off at all. Just a little 4cyl 5 speed, but I got A/C AND a radio!!!
#114
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yes sir, I ran one until I went to my two stage setup and now have a Nitrous Express standalone in the car. Great piece.
Yea they are ok, I would feel fine pulling them out of the car but knowing I need to do a lot to that tuneup to get it right. It seems you are more worried about the first sixty feet, you need to leave that alone and work on the tuneup. 1.30 is great, get it to run right and then turn around and work in the sixty foot if you feel there is more left in it.
Also Im not sure why you are gonna run Nano, all the tuneup info you learn on the Nano won't be helpful when you don't use it... just some food for thought.
good luck sir
Yea they are ok, I would feel fine pulling them out of the car but knowing I need to do a lot to that tuneup to get it right. It seems you are more worried about the first sixty feet, you need to leave that alone and work on the tuneup. 1.30 is great, get it to run right and then turn around and work in the sixty foot if you feel there is more left in it.
Also Im not sure why you are gonna run Nano, all the tuneup info you learn on the Nano won't be helpful when you don't use it... just some food for thought.
good luck sir
I just know if it doesn't 60' or 330' it won't do what I want down track.
So things to do:
1)lower pressure to 900-950
2)add 2* timing
3)Should I try the 78n/38f tune-up or should I put the 82n/46f back in and do the above? I feel like it will be even more rich if I do this?
The only reason I was going to run the Nano is my buddy and I were interested in seeing what it could gain in my set-up. I don't know why some people don't even like it being brought up for use it seems?
If the Nano puts the pressure at 1050 then the tune-up I use for that will be for 1050 pressure, without it will be 900. I don't see what's so complicated about that? It's going to be leaner at 1050 and richer at 900. Not arguing it just seems cut and dry.
I also wanted to use it because I only have two bottles. 9/10 only one of them is full. I'd like to get as much as possible out of the bottle before it's empty.
I saw/felt a huge difference after my second pass with how the car pulled down track. It wouldn't hold pressure anymore and barely any nitrous came out the purge on the 3rd nitrous pass. Granted as I see now I was running too high a pressure which is harder to maintain and duplicate. I just saw the nano as a way of not having varying conditions.
#115
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ATV has said that bottle pressure doesn't really have that big of an effect on afr, it's just the amount of drop that changes with higher starting pressures.
#116
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No problem, glad to help.
You dont need a nano, just one more pain in the *** to fill and keep track of.
If you want more power just put a bigger jet in it.
Less bottle pressure will richen up up a little, not much.
The 2* of timing will lean it out a little also thats why I suggested to put bottle at 950psi add 2* and make a pass to see what the plugs look like.
You dont want to make to many changes at one time.
And from the looks of that plug the tune isnt to far off so small changes from here on out.
You dont need a nano, just one more pain in the *** to fill and keep track of.
If you want more power just put a bigger jet in it.
Less bottle pressure will richen up up a little, not much.
The 2* of timing will lean it out a little also thats why I suggested to put bottle at 950psi add 2* and make a pass to see what the plugs look like.
You dont want to make to many changes at one time.
And from the looks of that plug the tune isnt to far off so small changes from here on out.
I will think about the Nano idea, but I really would like to at least try it out. I don't see what's so bad about it.
#117
I have heard anywhere from 200 to 300. I can see it being a restriction.
I will say this after looking at the size difference between a -3 line and fitting versus a -4 line and fitting that difference is huge, I can only imagine the difference in a -4 to a -6.
When I pony up the coin for a quarter turn valve, fittings, and big 5" nitrous pressure gauge from Induction Solutions I am going to change the -4 main line to a -6.
Now as far as the afr being too lean. Here are my thoughts on that.
So far as you have seen in this thread, Cam and ATV both are saying that it needs timing/and or leaned out to get more heat in the plug. Looking at the plug it is getting close and will just need a few fine changes to get right.
If you just look at the number 12.8 and tell yourself oh that's too lean without even knowing what the plug looks like how do you really know that is too lean? It could still be pig rich(not likely but....) or it could be way too lean and starting to nip electrodes off the plug.
You won't know for sure until you read your plugs and you really have to either pull them on the return road or tow it back.
The difference in how a plug looks being towed up and back and one that was driven up and back on the same tune-up is huge. Driving it up and back will make it look rich when in all reality it could be lean down track and you're leaning it out more or adding more timing and kaboom next pass.
Plug reading is critical then reference the wide band and what it says during the run.
I will say this after looking at the size difference between a -3 line and fitting versus a -4 line and fitting that difference is huge, I can only imagine the difference in a -4 to a -6.
When I pony up the coin for a quarter turn valve, fittings, and big 5" nitrous pressure gauge from Induction Solutions I am going to change the -4 main line to a -6.
Now as far as the afr being too lean. Here are my thoughts on that.
So far as you have seen in this thread, Cam and ATV both are saying that it needs timing/and or leaned out to get more heat in the plug. Looking at the plug it is getting close and will just need a few fine changes to get right.
If you just look at the number 12.8 and tell yourself oh that's too lean without even knowing what the plug looks like how do you really know that is too lean? It could still be pig rich(not likely but....) or it could be way too lean and starting to nip electrodes off the plug.
You won't know for sure until you read your plugs and you really have to either pull them on the return road or tow it back.
The difference in how a plug looks being towed up and back and one that was driven up and back on the same tune-up is huge. Driving it up and back will make it look rich when in all reality it could be lean down track and you're leaning it out more or adding more timing and kaboom next pass.
Plug reading is critical then reference the wide band and what it says during the run.
I am hoping to make it out to the track today and see what i can run on a slightly leaner 200 shot. I have added a little timing in the lower rpms so i can hopefully get my 60' down. what is your total timing?
#118
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Thanks for the info. I really appreciate it. I'm trying to take in as much info as i can so i can get my tune spot on. I eventually want to go up to a 250 shot while keeping the -4 line.
I am hoping to make it out to the track today and see what i can run on a slightly leaner 200 shot. I have added a little timing in the lower rpms so i can hopefully get my 60' down. what is your total timing?
I am hoping to make it out to the track today and see what i can run on a slightly leaner 200 shot. I have added a little timing in the lower rpms so i can hopefully get my 60' down. what is your total timing?
If your car spins doing this, speed up the timing retard ramp or pull more timing at the rpm it spins than you were doing the run before.
#119
Martin, I have been racking my brain with the wiring setups, with regular 5 pin relays, it simply cant be done to run all three systems together. Might not have been a "good" outting for you, but at least you didnt break anything (not really), and you did manage to shave .01 off your time.. I'd call that a good track outing any day.
#120
Total timing is 27* pulling 10 from that. My timing retard is pulled progressively as rpm rise starting at launch rpm and going all the way to red line. When I launch at 3600rpm I am only pulling 2*-3* timing, but where the converter couples and starts to "lock up" at 5600rpm I have 7*-8* pulled out and when it really locks up hard at 6000rpm all 10 degrees is pulled out by then. That way when I shift from first to second and second to third it has all 10 degrees out of it, but in 1st gear it ramps the timing down so the car is faster out of the hole and to the 330'.
If your car spins doing this, speed up the timing retard ramp or pull more timing at the rpm it spins than you were doing the run before.
If your car spins doing this, speed up the timing retard ramp or pull more timing at the rpm it spins than you were doing the run before.