Only had to pull 2 degrees for 150 shot?
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From: Whitehall, PA
Only had to pull 2 degrees for 150 shot? So I had my car tuned for a 150 shot today and my a/f at the highest was 11.2 with pulling 2 degrees so then we put the 125 jet in on the fuel side and the highest a/f we got was 11.6 does that sound off to you guys? Only having to pull -2 degrees for a 150 shot? My car was at stock timing before we started tuning it.
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That's not pulling very much. As far as AFR goes, that's a little rich, try getting it close to 12.0. Also, the absolute best way to tune nitrous is to go to the track with a few sets of plugs, put a fresh set in and make your pass. Shut it down at the finish line and push/tow it back to the pits and pull your plugs. Reading the plugs will give you a great understanding of where your timing is at and if you need to pull more or put some back in. Also, it'll let you know how the nitrous is burning inside the cylinder, and give you an idea on if your fueling needs to change or not. If you have any questions or need further assistance, let me know and I'll do everything I can to help you out!
Thread Starter
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From: Whitehall, PA
That's not pulling very much. As far as AFR goes, that's a little rich, try getting it close to 12.0. Also, the absolute best way to tune nitrous is to go to the track with a few sets of plugs, put a fresh set in and make your pass. Shut it down at the finish line and push/tow it back to the pits and pull your plugs. Reading the plugs will give you a great understanding of where your timing is at and if you need to pull more or put some back in. Also, it'll let you know how the nitrous is burning inside the cylinder, and give you an idea on if your fueling needs to change or not. If you have any questions or need further assistance, let me know and I'll do everything I can to help you out!
That will be a little hard to do considering I don't make it to the track very often. Could I just run it shut it off pull over and pull a couple plugs to see where it's at? Also I don't have my own computer software to pull timing when I need. Do you think it will hurt anything to run it the way it is now?
Last edited by igtabg1; Jul 29, 2015 at 10:56 AM. Reason: i suck at spelling
Thread Starter
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From: Whitehall, PA
sorry my coffee hadn't kicked in. If you don't go to the track then just test your nitrous in the street(with the directions that aJ@nitrououtlet provided). I am just saying without reading your plugs your nitrous tune could be way off, or you could be leaving some power on the table.
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From: Wichita falls Texas
I like to tune my nitrous half a point richer than what it likes to run on motor. It is very possible that you would only have to pull 2 degrees for that setup. The 2* per 50hp that everyone talks about is just a good safe starting point.
Thanks,
Garrett
Thanks,
Garrett
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From: Wichita falls Texas
The easiest way to figure out if something is wrong with your system after checking the obvious stuff like clogged filters, kinked lines or something, is to do a Nitrous Consumption test. (I can tell you how to do that.)
Although, it sounds like you just might be tuned up a little rich, normally if there is something seriously wrong, it will peg out 10.0 on the wideband gauge. I would drop fuel pressure down or drop a couple sizes on the fuel jet, and clean it up a little bit. Like I said above, you want to target about half a point richer than what it likes on motor.
-Garrett
Although, it sounds like you just might be tuned up a little rich, normally if there is something seriously wrong, it will peg out 10.0 on the wideband gauge. I would drop fuel pressure down or drop a couple sizes on the fuel jet, and clean it up a little bit. Like I said above, you want to target about half a point richer than what it likes on motor.
-Garrett
FormerVendor
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I agree 100% with this. Until you got your tune right, and you know it's right- I would take it easy. Do you have a wideband in the car or are the AFR's you mentioned from the dyno?
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That will be a little hard to do considering I don't make it to the track very often. Could I just run it shut it off pull over and pull a couple plugs to see where it's at? Also I don't have my own computer software to pull timing when I need. Do you think it will hurt anything to run it the way it is now?
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From: Whitehall, PA
The af was from the dyno. I guess I'm just gonna have to wait till this weekend to do a couple runs on the street to see where my plugs are at and if they don't look right with the 150 shot and I don't have a way to retard timing as of right now should I just lower the shot until the plugs start to clean up? And I plan on getting the lnc2000
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From: Whitehall, PA
This is what pretty much all the plugs look like i changed the jets from the 150 shots to the 100 shot jets with the ~2 degrees timing af based off my oxygen sensors was really rich. I'm not good at reading plugs any input would be help me
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From: Wichita falls Texas
The timing mark needs to be right around the bend, which it looks like it is in the pic, and you want to tune to a really light brown color. If they come out black or sooty, that's obviously rich, and if they are white they are too hot, which could be from lean condition and also too much timing. If you have too much timing you will normally melt the plug, burn off a strap, or if the plug is too cold for your application you could melt a piston.
2* per 50hp is a very good starting point that will be very safe.
You can tell alot more about the plug as far as fueling goes, by cutting off the threads and looking at the fuel ring thats down inside around the base.
-Garrett
2* per 50hp is a very good starting point that will be very safe.
You can tell alot more about the plug as far as fueling goes, by cutting off the threads and looking at the fuel ring thats down inside around the base.
-Garrett
How far did you drive on these plugs?
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Teching In
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From: Whitehall, PA
The timing mark needs to be right around the bend, which it looks like it is in the pic, and you want to tune to a really light brown color. If they come out black or sooty, that's obviously rich, and if they are white they are too hot, which could be from lean condition and also too much timing. If you have too much timing you will normally melt the plug, burn off a strap, or if the plug is too cold for your application you could melt a piston.
2* per 50hp is a very good starting point that will be very safe.
You can tell alot more about the plug as far as fueling goes, by cutting off the threads and looking at the fuel ring thats down inside around the base.
-Garrett
2* per 50hp is a very good starting point that will be very safe.
You can tell alot more about the plug as far as fueling goes, by cutting off the threads and looking at the fuel ring thats down inside around the base.
-Garrett
Man, that plug really looks like it's been driven on. You can see part throttle fueling on it. Was the plug brand new when you did this? The plug needs to be new, have little to no idle time on it and once the pull is over, the car needs to be clicked off immediately. This is the only way to get a correct reading. Is that what you did here?
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From: Wichita falls Texas