NANO - what am I doing wrong?
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 401
Likes: 18
From: Houston
NANO - what am I doing wrong? What am I doing wrong with my NANO system? It’s a Nitrous Outlet plate kit and 10 lb bottles. NANO 3000 psi high pressure air bottle, check valve and lines. Bottle was filled to 3,000 psi at the paintball place.
I paired it with a fresh full nitrous bottle that was submerged in ice for an hour right before my first run. Nitrous jetting was 32/18 (20% less nitrous jet) shooting for a 75 shot. Nitrous pressure gauge read 950 before and after each pass.
It only picked up 4.5 – 5 mph in the quarter on two back to back runs. I was expecting an increase of 7 – 9 mph. I switched to a normal bottle without NANO and 41/18 jets and picked up 3 – 4 mph over the NANO. To be fair, bottle pressure is about 1,100 without NANO, but it drops about 100 psi by the end of the run.
Is jetting wrong? Is bottle temp off? Is it bottle pressure?
Thanks!
I paired it with a fresh full nitrous bottle that was submerged in ice for an hour right before my first run. Nitrous jetting was 32/18 (20% less nitrous jet) shooting for a 75 shot. Nitrous pressure gauge read 950 before and after each pass.
It only picked up 4.5 – 5 mph in the quarter on two back to back runs. I was expecting an increase of 7 – 9 mph. I switched to a normal bottle without NANO and 41/18 jets and picked up 3 – 4 mph over the NANO. To be fair, bottle pressure is about 1,100 without NANO, but it drops about 100 psi by the end of the run.
Is jetting wrong? Is bottle temp off? Is it bottle pressure?
Thanks!
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 31
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From: Ontario Canada
Only had the opportunity to make 1 Nano pass last year, had similar results with 20% less nitrous jetting.... Picked up a couple MPH and nearly half a tenth...about what I expected, hope to see similar and consistant results right to the last drop of nitrous in the bottle.....not a lot of Nano guys around here but I understand that 20% is a guideline to start with, you may be able to throw a bit more at it by checking you plugs etc....
Why are you chilling the bottle before a pass? I have been out of the nitrous game for a while but we only chilled bottles before we filled them to help the fill process.
Nano helped keep pressure constant vs having a huge drop over a 1/4 mile pass.
You don't see it as much on a 75 shot, but on 300 shot we could start a pass at 1100 and end at 800. Nano helped keep it constant. This translated to steady afr during the pass vs a slight enrichment. (Fuel pressure constant and nitrous pressure dropping)
For anything under 100-150 I would keep it simple and not use the Nano.
PS: another issue with Nano I did not think off until it happened: You can no longer gauge how much nitrous you have based on pressure. You have to go by weight only.
Nano helped keep pressure constant vs having a huge drop over a 1/4 mile pass.
You don't see it as much on a 75 shot, but on 300 shot we could start a pass at 1100 and end at 800. Nano helped keep it constant. This translated to steady afr during the pass vs a slight enrichment. (Fuel pressure constant and nitrous pressure dropping)
For anything under 100-150 I would keep it simple and not use the Nano.
PS: another issue with Nano I did not think off until it happened: You can no longer gauge how much nitrous you have based on pressure. You have to go by weight only.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 401
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From: Houston
I chilled because of this from NANO and it was warm and sunny:
"The nitrous bottle temperature needs to remain constant at or below 80*F. That’s why we supply a nitrous bottle temperature gage with every system. You can chill your bottle, use ice packs, and you can reduce your temperature by purging your nitrous with the NANO System turned off."
I have read comments that the HPA can make the nitrous go stale if you don't use the whole bottle of nitrous that day. I wonder if that's what happened to me. I tested the system a couple of weeks ago.
I
"The nitrous bottle temperature needs to remain constant at or below 80*F. That’s why we supply a nitrous bottle temperature gage with every system. You can chill your bottle, use ice packs, and you can reduce your temperature by purging your nitrous with the NANO System turned off."
I have read comments that the HPA can make the nitrous go stale if you don't use the whole bottle of nitrous that day. I wonder if that's what happened to me. I tested the system a couple of weeks ago.
I
Jetting is wrong and too rich, contrary to what NANO states. You don't need to up the fuel or drop the nitrous jetting 20%. In your case, put the 75 jet (41N) back in and leave the fuel, or even drop the fuel jet a tad. Most of the charts out there are set on the "rich" side. Just make sure you have enough timing pulled and check your plugs.
You did right by chilling the nitrous bottle. Nano works best with a cold nitrous bottle. Warm days, I keep my nitrous bottle in the freezer. Cold days (45*- temps), I just leave it in the garage. 1100 psi is a little high for my taste. I aim at 900-950 psi; less of a pressure drop with lower pressure. Tom @ Nano has a video floating around somewhere that shows removing some washers from the Nano bottle to lower the nitrous pressure when the Nano valve is opened.
You did right by chilling the nitrous bottle. Nano works best with a cold nitrous bottle. Warm days, I keep my nitrous bottle in the freezer. Cold days (45*- temps), I just leave it in the garage. 1100 psi is a little high for my taste. I aim at 900-950 psi; less of a pressure drop with lower pressure. Tom @ Nano has a video floating around somewhere that shows removing some washers from the Nano bottle to lower the nitrous pressure when the Nano valve is opened.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 401
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From: Houston
That makes sense because the car only picked up 4.5 - 5 mph, like it has with a non-NANO 50 shot. I will try increasing the nitrous jet. I couldn't monitor my afr gauge on NANO. Hopefully I will be able to do so next time out. On regular nitrous my afr started out at about 12.8 and decreased to 12.4 at the stripe. My LNC is set to pull 3 degrees. I'm running 110 fuel in a stand-alone and 93 in the gas tank. Factory tune.
I'm getting 950 psi on NANO before and after each run. Off NANO I heat the bottle to about 1150 - 1200 psi before I shut the car off for cool down. By the time I get to the burnout box psi is 1050 - 1100 and 900 - 950 after the run.
I take nitrous tuning seriously and am trying to be conservative. I want to learn how to do it right.
I drive the car to and from the track. Do I need to swap to fresh plugs after I get to the track, cut the car off right at the end of the run and coast/pull the car back to the pits, then pull all 8 plugs, cut and read them? Or can I read the plugs I have in the car now? Do I have to cut the car off right after the stripe or can I idle it back to the pits?
I ordered a dedicated laptop and plan on buying HP tuners and have PatG tune it by email. That way I can data log and have multiple tunes. I know that's no substitute for plug reading but I hope it will help spot potential issues so I can mostly tune by jetting and timing.
Thanks!
I'm getting 950 psi on NANO before and after each run. Off NANO I heat the bottle to about 1150 - 1200 psi before I shut the car off for cool down. By the time I get to the burnout box psi is 1050 - 1100 and 900 - 950 after the run.
I take nitrous tuning seriously and am trying to be conservative. I want to learn how to do it right.
I drive the car to and from the track. Do I need to swap to fresh plugs after I get to the track, cut the car off right at the end of the run and coast/pull the car back to the pits, then pull all 8 plugs, cut and read them? Or can I read the plugs I have in the car now? Do I have to cut the car off right after the stripe or can I idle it back to the pits?
I ordered a dedicated laptop and plan on buying HP tuners and have PatG tune it by email. That way I can data log and have multiple tunes. I know that's no substitute for plug reading but I hope it will help spot potential issues so I can mostly tune by jetting and timing.
Thanks!
Last edited by gesto; May 15, 2017 at 10:55 AM.
Yes, a fresh set of plugs before your pass and shutting the car off after the 1/4 will give the most accurate reading. You "may" be able to get away with driving back to the pits. If you're unable to pull 8, try to pull the back ones since those are usually the hottest cylinders. Cutting the plugs will show more of an accurate "fuel line", but if you're unable, look at the base of the plug. Plenty of nitrous plug pics online to gauge from.
You're on the right track with the a/f around 12.8.
You're on the right track with the a/f around 12.8.
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Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 401
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From: Houston
Thanks shortdog! I really appreciate the guidance. I'm going to put together my own little plug reading kit and probably just swap plugs on the return road. BR6EF plugs are cheap from Summit. BR7EF's cost a lot more. EGR, AIR, HVAC and ABS are all removed so plugs are easy. I want to make my mistakes on a 75 shot and not on a 150 shot.
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FormerVendor
Joined: Oct 2014
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With NANO systems, we recommend leaving the nitrous jet where it is, and add 10% to the fuel jet. It may be a tad rich, but it's not going to be like it was. We have the BR7EF plugs for only $2.40, and we always have them in stock if you need any. Let me know if you need anything else!
Yes, pull 3 degrees to start.
I don't agree with adding fuel to richen it up with the Nano, but to each is own. I would try out several fuel jets to see what your car likes. I try to aim my a/f close to what it runs on motor, 12.5-13.0.
I don't agree with adding fuel to richen it up with the Nano, but to each is own. I would try out several fuel jets to see what your car likes. I try to aim my a/f close to what it runs on motor, 12.5-13.0.