Plug read help.. 175 shot 9.19 et
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Still getting a handle on this. Would I be correct in thinking the mark is at the bottom of the strap or is it actually toward the tip? Car was started before burnout box and run till end of 1/4 and shut off.
C16 fuel and NGK 9 heat range
125 shot on first slip with 7 degrees pulled, 29 base.
175 shot on second slip with 13 pulled, 29 base.
Was about 60 outside and cloudy.
Will post video shortly, thanks guys.
Updated with vid.
C16 fuel and NGK 9 heat range
125 shot on first slip with 7 degrees pulled, 29 base.
175 shot on second slip with 13 pulled, 29 base.
Was about 60 outside and cloudy.
Will post video shortly, thanks guys.
Updated with vid.
Last edited by foose04; 10-01-2017 at 01:33 PM.
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For some reason the picture is a little blurry on my phone but the 1st picture of the plug the timing mark looks like it is toward the tip. What is the motor setup? Nice timeslip
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Thanks man. As for the pic, it's weird. If you click and hold to open them in a new window it's high resolution.
Ls2 404, tf 235s, solid roller nitrous cam. 13.5 to 1 compression.
Ls2 404, tf 235s, solid roller nitrous cam. 13.5 to 1 compression.
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I have seen videos of your truck too it runs really good. I see you're in charleston too. We have a race going on October 21st called Truck Wars 2 in Jeffersonville,GA at Middle Georgia Motorsports Park. It's a fun race with everything from street trucks to low 4 second trucks. You should bring yours out if you have the time. That mustang you have is rolling pretty good.
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Still getting a handle on this. Would I be correct in thinking the mark is at the bottom of the strap or is it actually toward the tip? Car was started before burnout box and run till end of 1/4 and shut off.
C16 fuel and NGK 9 heat range
125 shot on first slip with 7 degrees pulled, 29 base.
175 shot on second slip with 13 pulled, 29 base.
Was about 60 outside and cloudy.
C16 fuel and NGK 9 heat range
125 shot on first slip with 7 degrees pulled, 29 base.
175 shot on second slip with 13 pulled, 29 base.
Was about 60 outside and cloudy.
As for the fuel mixture, there is no way to tell from the pictures that you have supplied. You need to be able to see the fuel ring area of the porcelain which is not visible in your pictures.
This picture shows where to look for the "fuel ring" on the spark plug:
![](https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/600x367/images_9b877c260a0ef0844e2e80b5e01ef08e03223fc8.jpg)
In this area you want to see a faint, barely visible fuel ring. To do this properly, you need to install brand new plugs, push it to the line, make 1 pass and shut it off immediately after the pass. Either pull the plugs on the return road or tow back to the pits and pull them. No idle time after the pass if you want an accurate assessment.
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Ive got fresh stiff wall slicks to try out to replace the radial slicks. I know the radial slicks will be faster, but with it being so cold out I need all the bite I can get.
The track has a serious issue with leafs in the fall, always messing up something on the timeslip. Sucks.
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First off, car looks great! It sounded a little flat and that's probably due to the amount of timing pulled. As Speedtigger stated, there isn't any heat on the plug and no discernible timing mark. I can't see the fuel ring on the plug. You have a good starting point to get the Air/Fuel sorted out. Once you get the fuel close, you can start adding timing back. Watch the plug as you're giving it timing because it can change the fueling(more efficient burn). Sometimes as you give it timing, it can want a little more fuel. Just have to watch the slip as you make changes. You might consider putting an 8 heat range plug in it for these horsepower settings(up to about 250).
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Hi Chip, I was taught to "read" Spark Plugs by Jerry Grant, an INDY 500 winner AND the Champion Spark Plug chief "tech".
What I state STANDS.
What I do not see is the Spark Plug Heat Range "fire band" in your pictures.
Could you post a picture of the Insulator inside the plug steel ?
I would NOT add Spark Advance at this time.
Lance
What I state STANDS.
What I do not see is the Spark Plug Heat Range "fire band" in your pictures.
Could you post a picture of the Insulator inside the plug steel ?
I would NOT add Spark Advance at this time.
Lance
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First off, car looks great! It sounded a little flat and that's probably due to the amount of timing pulled. As Speedtigger stated, there isn't any heat on the plug and no discernible timing mark. I can't see the fuel ring on the plug. You have a good starting point to get the Air/Fuel sorted out. Once you get the fuel close, you can start adding timing back. Watch the plug as you're giving it timing because it can change the fueling(more efficient burn). Sometimes as you give it timing, it can want a little more fuel. Just have to watch the slip as you make changes. You might consider putting an 8 heat range plug in it for these horsepower settings(up to about 250).
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Hi 00ass, NO !
I work with Mike Thermos, Nitrous Supply, he AGREES with MY READ.
Mike INVENTED Modern NOS AND created Nitrous Oxide Systems.
He too agrees that ignition in a N02 injected engine is VERY important AND thus fits my IGN-1A coils when required.
He states with a strong ignition, he often sees a DROP in EGT when "sprayed"
Most here state "Add Timing" which is VERY dangerous AND will destroy the engine when too great.
I state add Ignition Energy by Coil Dwell increase or Stronger Coil Fitment.
The "song" of an engine will be better with the correct Spark Instant and Quality Ignition.
I "read" Crankshaft Acceleration, easy with the 58x TW, finding the EXACT BEST Spark instant.
MY opinion is that this is a thing YOU have NEVER done !
Lance
I work with Mike Thermos, Nitrous Supply, he AGREES with MY READ.
Mike INVENTED Modern NOS AND created Nitrous Oxide Systems.
He too agrees that ignition in a N02 injected engine is VERY important AND thus fits my IGN-1A coils when required.
He states with a strong ignition, he often sees a DROP in EGT when "sprayed"
Most here state "Add Timing" which is VERY dangerous AND will destroy the engine when too great.
I state add Ignition Energy by Coil Dwell increase or Stronger Coil Fitment.
The "song" of an engine will be better with the correct Spark Instant and Quality Ignition.
I "read" Crankshaft Acceleration, easy with the 58x TW, finding the EXACT BEST Spark instant.
MY opinion is that this is a thing YOU have NEVER done !
Lance
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HI ALL, BECAUSE I STATE TRUE, I GET MODDED/OR OTHERS WHO POST ILLEGAL WORDS = NOT.
NOW YOU HAVE POWER, (BLKOOSS) FOR FREE !
Many here will spend good money to buy AFR meters, test equipment, etc. to find the cause of a problem.
The ROOT cause is often a weak spark !
Thanks, BLKOOSS My Friend + 10% commission !
Lance
NOW YOU HAVE POWER, (BLKOOSS) FOR FREE !
Many here will spend good money to buy AFR meters, test equipment, etc. to find the cause of a problem.
The ROOT cause is often a weak spark !
Thanks, BLKOOSS My Friend + 10% commission !
Lance
Last edited by pantera_efi; 10-09-2017 at 08:18 AM.
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still at it, went to Sturgis SD 1/8 mile for small tire shootout. Got a bunch of testing in but learned 3400ft track elevation is no joke. DA was over 4500 for the day. That said got some new best. 200 shot with 9 degrees pulled went 5.69. 225 shot with 11 pulled went 5.58@123, 1.25 60. Best 60 of the day was 1.24. Only changed since last video was more timing, anti roll bar setting change, 28x10.50 stiff wall m/t's. Leaving at 3000 rpm 2-step 40% progressive ramping 100% at 1.1 on 200, 1.3 on 225. Still on straight C16.
200
First 225
Adjusted front end limiters and shocks, slowed ramp from 1.1 sec to 1.3. 225 shot
200
First 225
Adjusted front end limiters and shocks, slowed ramp from 1.1 sec to 1.3. 225 shot
Last edited by foose04; 10-10-2017 at 01:36 AM.
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Don't be an *******. As far as I'm concerned, his words are gold.