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Old 01-16-2023, 04:11 PM
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Default Bottle warmer

My bottle warmer will not warm the bottle for the life on me. I've checked my wiring over n over, the wire is very basic and I followed the nitrous outlet instructions. I've checked my relays and I've checked my voltage going into the pressure switch and the voltage is good. It's like the pressure switch isn't reading and won't turn on the relay to activate the warmer
Old 01-16-2023, 04:16 PM
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Is the warmer circuit itself continuous? It might be broken.
Old 01-16-2023, 04:48 PM
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The pressure switch gets 12v from the arming switch from there to relay and the relay has 12v from the battery and then from relay to warmer plus the grounds and all my readings are good with voltage meter
Old 01-16-2023, 05:12 PM
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White wire from relay- grounded, Red from relay goes into pressure switch, Blue into warmer, Black from relay 12v to battery, Black wire on pressure switch 12v arming switch, 2nd black from warmer in also grounded
Old 01-17-2023, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Is the warmer circuit itself continuous? It might be broken.
ANY opinion on what it might be? I bypass the pressure switch and hooked the heater in directly and it works fine that way but the pressure switch just won't work right
Old 01-17-2023, 08:56 AM
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On the relay, what pins are the different wires on? If you pull the relay off of the harness and look at the bottom where the pins are, they should be stamped with a number (87, 85, 86, 30).
Old 01-17-2023, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
On the relay, what pins are the different wires on? If you pull the relay off of the harness and look at the bottom where the pins are, they should be stamped with a number (87, 85, 86, 30).
look above at the picture I posted, it has the numbers on top of the relay. If you scope in you can see them
Old 01-17-2023, 01:19 PM
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I see that, that is just a diagram on what the different pins do. It looks like you have 87 hooked to the pressure switch, and 30 hooked to the bottle heater; The bottle pressure switch isn't made to pass high amperage through it, it needs to be interrupting one of the trigger wires, either 85 or 86. 30 should be straight to the battery positive, and 87 should be straight to the bottle heater.
Old 01-17-2023, 04:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
I see that, that is just a diagram on what the different pins do. It looks like you have 87 hooked to the pressure switch, and 30 hooked to the bottle heater; The bottle pressure switch isn't made to pass high amperage through it, it needs to be interrupting one of the trigger wires, either 85 or 86. 30 should be straight to the battery positive, and 87 should be straight to the bottle heater.
red-87, black-85, blue-30, white-86
Old 01-17-2023, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
I see that, that is just a diagram on what the different pins do. It looks like you have 87 hooked to the pressure switch, and 30 hooked to the bottle heater; The bottle pressure switch isn't made to pass high amperage through it, it needs to be interrupting one of the trigger wires, either 85 or 86. 30 should be straight to the battery positive, and 87 should be straight to the bottle heater.
so basically switch the red and white?
Old 01-17-2023, 05:24 PM
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yes, try that. It's possible you may have damaged the switch putting almost 22A through it, but definitely test it to see, as it may be fine.
Old 01-17-2023, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
yes, try that. It's possible you may have damaged the switch putting almost 22A through it, but definitely test it to see, as it may be fine.
wow ok yeh I'll definitely try that and see if it works. If not i guess my next option is buy a new switch. Thanks I'll update once done
Old 01-17-2023, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
yes, try that. It's possible you may have damaged the switch putting almost 22A through it, but definitely test it to see, as it may be fine.
so the 12v from the arming switch should be where then?
Old 01-18-2023, 09:07 AM
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You can do it one of two ways:
12V from the arm switch to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 86 on the relay, and ground straight to pin 85 on the relay;
OR
12V from the arm switch straight to pin 86 on the relay, and ground to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 85 on the relay.
THEN
Pin 30 OR 87 will be power straight from the battery, and the pin that is left of those two will go to the bottle heater. The other wire off of the bottle heater will go straight to the negative on the battery.
Old 01-18-2023, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
You can do it one of two ways:
12V from the arm switch to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 86 on the relay, and ground straight to pin 85 on the relay;
OR
12V from the arm switch straight to pin 86 on the relay, and ground to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 85 on the relay.
THEN
Pin 30 OR 87 will be power straight from the battery, and the pin that is left of those two will go to the bottle heater. The other wire off of the bottle heater will go straight to the negative on the battery.
ok sounds good, I'll try it this afternoon when I'm off from work. Thanks
Old 01-22-2023, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Tommy42088
ok sounds good, I'll try it this afternoon when I'm off from work. Thanks
still didn't work man, I tried both ways. Why does the the second wire off the warmer have to go to the negative on the battery. I believe you im just curious whats the difference from that and just grounding to the truck?
Old 01-23-2023, 09:01 AM
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Grounding directly to the battery provides a much better ground than a body ground. It is an easy way to make sure the ground isn't the issue, and especially on high amp stuff, will ensure that the ground is sufficient for the item to work as intended.
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Old 01-23-2023, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
Grounding directly to the battery provides a much better ground than a body ground. It is an easy way to make sure the ground isn't the issue, and especially on high amp stuff, will ensure that the ground is sufficient for the item to work as intended.
10-4 I got you man, yeh i tried it and nothing worked. I ran a loose wire to the negative battery just to try it and it didn't work. Should the pressure switch immediately start working or does it take a while to read? I'm lost man, nothing is working
Old 01-23-2023, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Tommy42088
10-4 I got you man, yeh i tried it and nothing worked. I ran a loose wire to the negative battery just to try it and it didn't work. Should the pressure switch immediately start working or does it take a while to read? I'm lost man, nothing is working
The pressure switches come preset at 850 PSI; You will need to adjust it slowly until you get it to the pressure you want. Here is an excerpt from the instructions to give you an idea of how it works:

The Nitrous Outlet Adjustable Nitrous Pressure Safety Switch is adjustable from 750-1200 PSI and helps your systems bottle heater maintain a constant pressure. To set the switch, tighten the set screw to increase pressure and loosen to decrease pressure. Only make adjustments of 1 turn at a time giving the bottle at least 10 minutes to stabilize between adjustments. One full turn will adjust the pressure by approximately 150 PSI.

The bottle heater switch will disengage when it reaches the set pressure, and will re-engage once the pressure drops at least 50 PSI. I would test the switch with it in open air, or if you have it on a manifold fitting off the bottle nipple, test it with the bottle closed, just to see if the switch functions at all. As I mentioned before, putting ~20A through it could have damaged the switch.


Old 01-23-2023, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet
The pressure switches come preset at 850 PSI; You will need to adjust it slowly until you get it to the pressure you want. Here is an excerpt from the instructions to give you an idea of how it works:

The Nitrous Outlet Adjustable Nitrous Pressure Safety Switch is adjustable from 750-1200 PSI and helps your systems bottle heater maintain a constant pressure. To set the switch, tighten the set screw to increase pressure and loosen to decrease pressure. Only make adjustments of 1 turn at a time giving the bottle at least 10 minutes to stabilize between adjustments. One full turn will adjust the pressure by approximately 150 PSI.

The bottle heater switch will disengage when it reaches the set pressure, and will re-engage once the pressure drops at least 50 PSI. I would test the switch with it in open air, or if you have it on a manifold fitting off the bottle nipple, test it with the bottle closed, just to see if the switch functions at all. As I mentioned before, putting ~20A through it could have damaged the switch.
I screwed the fitting all the way in and followed your exact instructions on the wiring and I waited about 5 minutes to see if anything happened and my bottle warmer never came on. My bottle was at about 850 when I tried it and nothing happened at all. I now have it disconnected from the bottle so I will try it in open air. I didn't know that was an option but I'll definitely try anything at this point. I'm thinking I may have damaged it tho because with following your instructions and checking my grounds and 12v with the meter and everything reading correct I feel like it should of came on and it definitely not not


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