Bottle warmer
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Bottle warmer
My bottle warmer will not warm the bottle for the life on me. I've checked my wiring over n over, the wire is very basic and I followed the nitrous outlet instructions. I've checked my relays and I've checked my voltage going into the pressure switch and the voltage is good. It's like the pressure switch isn't reading and won't turn on the relay to activate the warmer
#2
TECH Senior Member
Is the warmer circuit itself continuous? It might be broken.
#3
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
The pressure switch gets 12v from the arming switch from there to relay and the relay has 12v from the battery and then from relay to warmer plus the grounds and all my readings are good with voltage meter
#4
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
White wire from relay- grounded, Red from relay goes into pressure switch, Blue into warmer, Black from relay 12v to battery, Black wire on pressure switch 12v arming switch, 2nd black from warmer in also grounded
#5
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
#7
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
look above at the picture I posted, it has the numbers on top of the relay. If you scope in you can see them
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#8
FormerVendor
iTrader: (25)
I see that, that is just a diagram on what the different pins do. It looks like you have 87 hooked to the pressure switch, and 30 hooked to the bottle heater; The bottle pressure switch isn't made to pass high amperage through it, it needs to be interrupting one of the trigger wires, either 85 or 86. 30 should be straight to the battery positive, and 87 should be straight to the bottle heater.
#9
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
I see that, that is just a diagram on what the different pins do. It looks like you have 87 hooked to the pressure switch, and 30 hooked to the bottle heater; The bottle pressure switch isn't made to pass high amperage through it, it needs to be interrupting one of the trigger wires, either 85 or 86. 30 should be straight to the battery positive, and 87 should be straight to the bottle heater.
#10
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
I see that, that is just a diagram on what the different pins do. It looks like you have 87 hooked to the pressure switch, and 30 hooked to the bottle heater; The bottle pressure switch isn't made to pass high amperage through it, it needs to be interrupting one of the trigger wires, either 85 or 86. 30 should be straight to the battery positive, and 87 should be straight to the bottle heater.
#12
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
wow ok yeh I'll definitely try that and see if it works. If not i guess my next option is buy a new switch. Thanks I'll update once done
#13
TECH Resident
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#14
FormerVendor
iTrader: (25)
You can do it one of two ways:
12V from the arm switch to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 86 on the relay, and ground straight to pin 85 on the relay;
OR
12V from the arm switch straight to pin 86 on the relay, and ground to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 85 on the relay.
THEN
Pin 30 OR 87 will be power straight from the battery, and the pin that is left of those two will go to the bottle heater. The other wire off of the bottle heater will go straight to the negative on the battery.
12V from the arm switch to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 86 on the relay, and ground straight to pin 85 on the relay;
OR
12V from the arm switch straight to pin 86 on the relay, and ground to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 85 on the relay.
THEN
Pin 30 OR 87 will be power straight from the battery, and the pin that is left of those two will go to the bottle heater. The other wire off of the bottle heater will go straight to the negative on the battery.
#15
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
You can do it one of two ways:
12V from the arm switch to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 86 on the relay, and ground straight to pin 85 on the relay;
OR
12V from the arm switch straight to pin 86 on the relay, and ground to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 85 on the relay.
THEN
Pin 30 OR 87 will be power straight from the battery, and the pin that is left of those two will go to the bottle heater. The other wire off of the bottle heater will go straight to the negative on the battery.
12V from the arm switch to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 86 on the relay, and ground straight to pin 85 on the relay;
OR
12V from the arm switch straight to pin 86 on the relay, and ground to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to pin 85 on the relay.
THEN
Pin 30 OR 87 will be power straight from the battery, and the pin that is left of those two will go to the bottle heater. The other wire off of the bottle heater will go straight to the negative on the battery.
#16
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
still didn't work man, I tried both ways. Why does the the second wire off the warmer have to go to the negative on the battery. I believe you im just curious whats the difference from that and just grounding to the truck?
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G Atsma (01-23-2023)
#18
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Grounding directly to the battery provides a much better ground than a body ground. It is an easy way to make sure the ground isn't the issue, and especially on high amp stuff, will ensure that the ground is sufficient for the item to work as intended.
#19
FormerVendor
iTrader: (25)
The Nitrous Outlet Adjustable Nitrous Pressure Safety Switch is adjustable from 750-1200 PSI and helps your systems bottle heater maintain a constant pressure. To set the switch, tighten the set screw to increase pressure and loosen to decrease pressure. Only make adjustments of 1 turn at a time giving the bottle at least 10 minutes to stabilize between adjustments. One full turn will adjust the pressure by approximately 150 PSI.
The bottle heater switch will disengage when it reaches the set pressure, and will re-engage once the pressure drops at least 50 PSI. I would test the switch with it in open air, or if you have it on a manifold fitting off the bottle nipple, test it with the bottle closed, just to see if the switch functions at all. As I mentioned before, putting ~20A through it could have damaged the switch.
#20
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
The pressure switches come preset at 850 PSI; You will need to adjust it slowly until you get it to the pressure you want. Here is an excerpt from the instructions to give you an idea of how it works:
The Nitrous Outlet Adjustable Nitrous Pressure Safety Switch is adjustable from 750-1200 PSI and helps your systems bottle heater maintain a constant pressure. To set the switch, tighten the set screw to increase pressure and loosen to decrease pressure. Only make adjustments of 1 turn at a time giving the bottle at least 10 minutes to stabilize between adjustments. One full turn will adjust the pressure by approximately 150 PSI.
The bottle heater switch will disengage when it reaches the set pressure, and will re-engage once the pressure drops at least 50 PSI. I would test the switch with it in open air, or if you have it on a manifold fitting off the bottle nipple, test it with the bottle closed, just to see if the switch functions at all. As I mentioned before, putting ~20A through it could have damaged the switch.
The Nitrous Outlet Adjustable Nitrous Pressure Safety Switch is adjustable from 750-1200 PSI and helps your systems bottle heater maintain a constant pressure. To set the switch, tighten the set screw to increase pressure and loosen to decrease pressure. Only make adjustments of 1 turn at a time giving the bottle at least 10 minutes to stabilize between adjustments. One full turn will adjust the pressure by approximately 150 PSI.
The bottle heater switch will disengage when it reaches the set pressure, and will re-engage once the pressure drops at least 50 PSI. I would test the switch with it in open air, or if you have it on a manifold fitting off the bottle nipple, test it with the bottle closed, just to see if the switch functions at all. As I mentioned before, putting ~20A through it could have damaged the switch.