Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Hey guys, I was just sittin here thinkin about my new setup and all, and was wondering if it's bad to motor purge if ur spraying a big shot (200+ hp).

Cuz I have a purge, but if I just use it and don't motor purge like twice, it falls on it's face and then slowly builds up!! But when I motor purge, she flies right off the bat, hits hard as hell!!! I was only spraying a 100 shot on the stock bottom, but now i'm gonna be spraying 200 - 300 on the new built motor and just wanted to know if it was still ok to motor purge a couple times before staging with that big of a shot. Let me know what you guys think, I appreciate any and all help, TIA!!!

TA Dave

A quick blip during the burnout is OK, but I'd really like to see a purge valve installed. Not only will it allow you to purge at the line, you can get the bottle pressure where you want it and it makes changing bottles a lot more fun.

The reason it feels less (without a purge) is your not getting the nitrous effect bringing the converter up on the launch.

WOT

iTrader: (1)

like i said in your other post... it really isnt bad. the purge is a great thing to have like ta dave said. it alows you to get your bottle pressure under control easier. but if you want to get the juice ready as can be, motor purging is the way to go. has been done for years.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Huh, quick blip during burnout? I do it after the burnout before staging, bring it to 3000 rpms, and quick punch wot and let off, let come down and do it one more time, usually get a hiccup on the first one, and the second one is smooth, so I know it's good to go. And I have a purge, like I said, if I use it and don't motor purge, it falls on it's face initially.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I gotcha dude, just figured i'd post up over here too, just lookin to see if I can get some reply's from the big nitrous guys, like the one's whackin a 300 shot, cuz that's what i'm lookin at runnin.

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

We run a 200 rwhp shot and bleed it by loosening the line before running. It hits hard right off the line. I wouldn't purge into the engine. It causes big spikes in pressure in the chambers and can damage the motor at lower rpm's. The purge is the best way to go. Car was is on a wot switch only to trigger.

Nitro Dave's Nitrous Outlet

iTrader: (25)

I disagree..I know people do this but this can also be a cause for a nitrous backfire.
The problem when doing this is that when you blip into the nitrous like that and then instantly let out the induction of the motor is not there to suck the nitrous and fuel down.I have seen several cars have back fires doing this.All over a 100 dollar purge kit.
Dave

NXJeremy

Dave took the words right out of my mouth. I have seen some of the outlaw type cars with big inch motors purge through the motor, but they keep the rpm's up for a few seconds after the blip. This way there is plenty of vacuum to prevent a back fire.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I have the purge kit, but it doesn't really do the job, like I said, if I use just the purge, it falls on it's face first, if I motor purge it hits instantly!!

68maro

how he's talking about holding the rpm's is like i said in your other post. the correct way to motor purge is to have a boom button, a momentary switch that fires the solenoids that way you can bring the rpm's up and hold them then just boom it twice, that is how all the outlaw racers do it.

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

I understand about the boom button and i'll definately set one up if that's the way to go, the only thing i'm worried about is the fact of whether or not it's safe to do that, I was under the impression that you shouldn't spray unless ur at wot, so how would that work, is it ok or no (no one's seemed to answer this question for me yet)? And if it is ok, what rpm would you bring it too, cuz 3500 that the other guy said seems a bit low, or is it just me?

68maro

about 5000rpm and yes it's safe if done correctly

Loudmouth LS1

iTrader: (10)

Alright, cool, so basically setup the switch, bring to 5000 rpm hold there, boom, continue to hold foot in same spot, let it come back down to 5000, boom again, continue to hold for a couple of seconds and let her down? Just wanna make sure I do it right. Block is coming back from the machine shop this week and then we're gonna get crackin on puttin her back together, so hopefully she'll be ready to go soon!!!! Not gonna spray her right away, my buddy told me to wait a little to make sure the rings and everything seat correctly, but i'll drive her around a lot and get some miles on her quick so I can squeeze the juice, hehe!!! It's gonna be a big change from the old setup to the new one, it's gonna take a bit of gettin used too and some seat time, I just hope my final pieces of suspension I got help me hook it!!! I was running my stock rear swaybar on the old setup and she was torquing bad out of the hole, so I picked up a bmr extreme bar and she was initially hooking and then unloading, so I picked up a set of lca relocate brackets to help solve that, just never got a chance to put the two on before I started buildin the new motor, so now that the suspension will be complete, hopefully she'll hook real nice, gonna have to mess with it a lot to get it dialed in though, that's for sure!

slow trap

iTrader: (22)

i must be living the wild side on motor purging.on my 150 wet shot ls-1 and 175 cheater kit on a carbed 406 i roll out under the hood,rev to 3000-3500 and trip the wot switch,in park or neutral the revs climb very easily and the motor is not under a load so i thought a backfire would be very unlikely.i do keep the revs up but you can easily tell when the n2o has been evacuated.i have purges also but there is still a delay and out of the hole might cause a bog then the n2o will hit and may cause a backfire.thats how my friend blew his ls1 up=dumped clutch @3000-3500,hit wot and bogged THEN the nitrous decided to hit and backfired.i guess everyone has horror stories and hero stories about n2o.