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Best noid to pulse with?

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Old 01-07-2006, 07:03 PM
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Default Best noid to pulse with?

I see in other threads the talk about noid pulsing and wich can take it.I just got a progressive controler from HSW and i am curious wich set of noids are going to take the punishment the longest?
Old 01-07-2006, 07:25 PM
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My understanding is that NX solenoids were very well suited to that kind of environment.
Old 01-07-2006, 07:34 PM
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Anyone have any good reasons why the NX would be more up to the task?
Old 01-07-2006, 07:35 PM
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Actually, all of the solenoids on the market today sold by: NX, NOS, Cold Fusion, Wilson, Nitrous Works, Edelbrock and TNT can all be used with a controller. No one particular brand is better than another. I do suggest checking your plunger on a regular basis since that is what takes the brunt of the force.
Old 01-07-2006, 07:41 PM
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Actually not all noids are the same. I've tried several brands now and definately see some pretty big quality differences.

I've used NOS and NX with good results.
Old 01-07-2006, 07:41 PM
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I agree Albert. Any of the solenoids on the market will work. It's especially nice if your solenoids have a lifetime warranty on them if you are using a progressive controller. We do have a solenoid (.078" Orifice) that has a resistor to help smooth out the progression when being pulsed. Should be on our site tonight.

Matt
Old 01-07-2006, 08:00 PM
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IMO the new Lightining noid from NX may be the best bet. The aluminum base and carbon cover should shed heat quite well. Shedding the excess heat should go a ways toward retaining the integrity of the plunger tip under extreme conditions.
Old 01-07-2006, 08:05 PM
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Is that right Matt anything in a say .125 size cause remember im going to be hitting a 200 to 225 shot




Originally Posted by Matt@HSW
I agree Albert. Any of the solenoids on the market will work. It's especially nice if your solenoids have a lifetime warranty on them if you are using a progressive controller. We do have a solenoid (.078" Orifice) that has a resistor to help smooth out the progression when being pulsed. Should be on our site tonight.

Matt

Last edited by ws6sojuiced01; 01-07-2006 at 08:21 PM.
Old 01-07-2006, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
IMO the new Lightining noid from NX may be the best bet. The aluminum base and carbon cover should shed heat quite well. Shedding the excess heat should go a ways toward retaining the integrity of the plunger tip under extreme conditions.
I would think that Carbon fiber would have more of an insulating property? maybe it's diff from fiberglass? Just asking.
Robert
Old 01-07-2006, 08:33 PM
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insulating sort of. But that works both ways. It wont absorb and retain the heat like a steel cover will. And its so thin there should be a good amount of radiant heat transfer.

But the aluminum base is the big difference. Kind of like going from an iron head to an aluminum head.
Old 01-07-2006, 09:58 PM
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Our 3 port solenoids come in a .125 size. I'll post up a link to them in a few.

Matt

Originally Posted by ws6sojuiced01
Is that right Matt anything in a say .125 size cause remember im going to be hitting a 200 to 225 shot
Old 01-07-2006, 10:26 PM
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that would be great Matt cause the three ports are what i want. Are you going to have a name on them like the black mamba?
Old 01-08-2006, 08:43 AM
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Heat is not the issue unless you are pulsing for LONG periods of time. Further there is NO heat on the inside where the plunger is! Its VERY COLD! The heat is in the coil! MOST ALL COILS are over driven which causes them to get hot from extended use. The main issue when using a progressive timer is the plunger being open and slammed closed hunders and even thousands of times. Over time this can cause plunger damage. So, just check them on a regular basis and if you see something odd replace the plunger.
Old 01-08-2006, 12:42 PM
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Albert has it right. years ago progressing got a bad name because of the butal used for sealing, and when hammered from progressing it would break apart and no seal. Now most noids use Viton a teflon like material and now can withstand the pulsing action inherent in progressing. I may be off on my materials (Albert please correct if off), but you get the idea.
Robert
Old 01-08-2006, 01:19 PM
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From the reasearch I have done The noids are pretty standard but the difference when choosing a noid for pulsig is the seal material.

There are two basic types and at the moment I'm not sure what they are but one is more of a rubber which is great for sealing but wears out quick, the other is more of a plastic which holds up better to pulsing but may not seal 100 % and might leak a touch which is not really what you would want on a mild engine.


What I have been told to do is run 2 noids, the first using the rubber material and when nitrous is activated opens and stays open, and then the second one to be the stiffer plastic material and be used for the pulsing.
Old 01-08-2006, 01:33 PM
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Well..Given the choice between a steel bodied solenoid and an aluminum one I will use the aluminum one for its heats shedding properties. Not only for the coil life but that reduction in temp IMO may have an effect on plunger life as well. Thats my opinion. But one thing I know that kills parts is heat.

As far as hot or cold at the plunger...thats all relative. Whatever temps the steel bodied solenoid plunger operates at...the aluminum will be less. Plunger tip elasticity should decrease linearly with any temp drops. If you could find a graph for the elasticity properties for the plunger material VS temps that may prove or disprove that theory. Wether thats from 20 degrees C, or 10 degrees C or -10 degrees C. The differences may be small. But if there is a 10-20-30 degree drop in temp at the plunger...id take it.

IMO the new NX noid design will be better than the old NX noid design for pulsing for these reasons and many others.

Last edited by 383LQ4SS; 01-08-2006 at 02:03 PM.
Old 01-08-2006, 01:38 PM
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Here's a LINK to them.

Matt

Originally Posted by ws6sojuiced01
that would be great Matt cause the three ports are what i want. Are you going to have a name on them like the black mamba?
Old 01-08-2006, 03:19 PM
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Nice noid Matt.
Robert
Old 01-08-2006, 07:35 PM
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Default plunger life.

Originally Posted by 383LQ4SS
Well..Given the choice between a steel bodied solenoid and an aluminum one I will use the aluminum one for its heats shedding properties. Not only for the coil life but that reduction in temp IMO may have an effect on plunger life as well. Thats my opinion. But one thing I know that kills parts is heat.

As far as hot or cold at the plunger...thats all relative. Whatever temps the steel bodied solenoid plunger operates at...the aluminum will be less. Plunger tip elasticity should decrease linearly with any temp drops. If you could find a graph for the elasticity properties for the plunger material VS temps that may prove or disprove that theory. Wether thats from 20 degrees C, or 10 degrees C or -10 degrees C. The differences may be small. But if there is a 10-20-30 degree drop in temp at the plunger...id take it.

IMO the new NX noid design will be better than the old NX noid design for pulsing for these reasons and many others.

I see your arguement with the aluminum solenoid. However, we have done testing with many solenoid body materials and plunger life was not effected with the different material. It did make a difference in its ability to seal!! We did find that an all aluminum body with a aluminum seat over time failed to seal as well as a standard stainless body and seat or an aluminum body with a stainless seat pressed in. In addition, the inlet and outlet temp change of the nitrous was not effected by either material. That being said it is safe to asume that the internal temp of the solenoid body, seat and plunger had no change with the different materials! We did find that the COIL did cool down faster with an aluminum stem vs a stainless stem. This could prove to be important if you are running back to back passes with less than 5 minute cool down times. I do not know of any racing that allows for nitrous use with such high demand for a duty cycle. In conclusion, I think that the light weight aluminum bodies have their time and space in racing where weight is a factor and that the stainless body offers a more rugged and heavier duty qualities for longevity. Either way, just make sure you do your preventitive maintenence!
Old 01-08-2006, 07:39 PM
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Last edited by Robert56; 01-08-2006 at 11:04 PM. Reason: Unnecessary antagonistic comment.


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