.
Wiring diagram-
Wiring diagram- Okay found my problem as to why i was cutting out- i wasnt using a relay so i fried either the arm switch or the window switch ( it still turns on so what does that mean?)- And i have been given this wiring diagram and i was just wondering if you guys could scan it over and critique it if needed-
http://img42.imageshack.us/my.php?im...0wiring0uf.jpg
1.)Also why is the window switch where it is-
2.)AND FINNALY- my window switch still turns on and appears to be okay do yall think that it is just the toggle switch that is burnt up or should i wait and see if the system works with the one i go now?
http://img42.imageshack.us/my.php?im...0wiring0uf.jpg
1.)Also why is the window switch where it is-
2.)AND FINNALY- my window switch still turns on and appears to be okay do yall think that it is just the toggle switch that is burnt up or should i wait and see if the system works with the one i go now?
Your design puts three switches on the ground of the relay...WOT, FPSS amd WS. Maybe it's 6 or half dozen or other but...
You can jump around the WS and FPSS and if problem still exists then WOT switch is bad. The WS could concieveable turn on and not be giving a consistent ground to relay. The FPSS could easily be acting up too.
I'm not saying go rewire but I would think your WOT switch would go between MAIN ARM SWITCH and 85 on relay to give 85 12 volts to activate the relay when 86 completes ground as a result of the window switch operating in it's rpm range. The FPSS has to be normally closed and the window switch normally open. The FPSS opens a low FP and the WS closes in the operating range of the MSD WS. In other words the operational flow goes:
12 volts from arm switch > WOT switch which closes at WOT sending 12 volts to 85. IF the FPSS is normally closed and the WS is completing ground to 86 then the coil between 85 and 86 is energized 30 flows to 87. Let someonme else verify this.
You can jump around the WS and FPSS and if problem still exists then WOT switch is bad. The WS could concieveable turn on and not be giving a consistent ground to relay. The FPSS could easily be acting up too.
I'm not saying go rewire but I would think your WOT switch would go between MAIN ARM SWITCH and 85 on relay to give 85 12 volts to activate the relay when 86 completes ground as a result of the window switch operating in it's rpm range. The FPSS has to be normally closed and the window switch normally open. The FPSS opens a low FP and the WS closes in the operating range of the MSD WS. In other words the operational flow goes:
12 volts from arm switch > WOT switch which closes at WOT sending 12 volts to 85. IF the FPSS is normally closed and the WS is completing ground to 86 then the coil between 85 and 86 is energized 30 flows to 87. Let someonme else verify this.
cool thanks that all makes sense and wont cause any problems in the wiring- i will try it that way first
and conceivebly since i didnt use relays would it cause a fluxation in amp's sent to the solenoids causing them to click on/off?
and conceivebly since i didnt use relays would it cause a fluxation in amp's sent to the solenoids causing them to click on/off?
Last edited by 02Vortech; Jan 24, 2006 at 10:58 PM.
Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2005
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IMO it doesnt really matter where the WOT, FPSS and relay go in the circuit. They all have to be closed in order for the relay to energize. Wire it so you run less wire, depending on item placement.
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Originally Posted by 02Vortech
doesnt the WOT switch ground the connection also? so why wouldnt it go in the same series as the window switch?
1.)can a relay go bad? b/c on the bottle heater 3 pegs are getting voltage but on the nitrous relay only the one comming directly from the battery is getting voltage- the switch was turned on- the arm switch was getting voltage-
2.)Also what is a good ground under the hood- i was using the firewall but my volt meter wouldnt even pick up the voltage off the wires comming directly off the battery
2.)Also what is a good ground under the hood- i was using the firewall but my volt meter wouldnt even pick up the voltage off the wires comming directly off the battery
okay GOT A PROBLEM!-
My yellow wire was going to my solenoids- so do i need to just gator clip the relay onto the yellow wire so it can still ground the solenoids? or what b/c it wasnt even turning on i just directly connected the yellow wire to the relay
My yellow wire was going to my solenoids- so do i need to just gator clip the relay onto the yellow wire so it can still ground the solenoids? or what b/c it wasnt even turning on i just directly connected the yellow wire to the relay
