I made 4 runs today on spray. 3 of them off a dig..and spraying outta the hole..All went find. I was running a buddy of mine in his Saleen E and i sprayed on a roll in 2nd gear at about 3200rpms. Mad a little pop, puff of smoke and the car started to bog down. I immediatly killed the motor, pulled over and popped the hood. I have a K&N FIPK..the air filter is pretty much mangled. When i popped the hood. the filter, MAF, and the bellows were blown off the throttle body. The nitrous nozzle was blow outta the bellows as well. When i turn the key to the on position..i only get about 40psi of fuel...if i crank it over..the motor turns over but then the rpms instantly skyrocket to like 5grand and just hold there. Im hoping i didnt do to much damage. Any info would be helpful!!!

 

ouch.....how big of a shot were you sprayin?

 

150 wet. This happened right away as well. It popped right when it sprayed. So it wasnt like i was in it..spraying..then pop. Right as i hit the gas.

 

blew about a 6" piece of the manifold out the back. LS6 intake

 

And you tried to turn it on that way? oh boy

 

yea i turned it on, and it did exactly what it should of with an intake leak. Its not like i let it run or anything lol. Im thinking a LS6 intake with nitro daves plate system will take care of this issue.

 

Sorry to hear about that bad luck....I just hope I don't have the same problem down the road...

 

Id say go Fast90 with a burst panel. Then you only have to replace the panel when it goes pop again, its bound to with the wet. Just go dry man. Its been proven plenty reliable. Just tune for that ****.

 

You should figure out why it did that before you go replacing things and do the same thing. Check your noids, fuel system, tune, etc...

 

you sure the traction control didnt kick in and pull fuel when it back fired? thats what it sounds to me. good luck with the fix.

 

It sounds like the fuel puddled in the intake and . That's why there's pieces of your intake missing.

 

they don't make intake manifolds like they used to...
what's next - plastic exhaust manifolds?

 

Yeah and you will have to replace you MAF as well. I know you knew that already. It happend to me and it took me two days and some nerve pills to finally get the relief that it was only a MAF and lid that I damaged. Good luck.

 

the reason it popped right away is probebly because the fuel and or fuemes were lingering in the itake from the last spray and just when your throttle body opened somehow a connection of firing with no vaccume caused it to blow off your intake


that is why it was instantaneous


btw i am not an expert but that seems to be the case I think


also BTW first post!!!!!

 

there is no way you can have fuel vapors "lingering" in the intake while the vehicle is running.

To be able to help diagnose what went wrong we need to know a few things

1) What was your A/F?
2) What was the fuel pressure, do you have a fpss?
3) Do you have a window switch?
4) What are you using for activation?

It sounds to me like you either had a lean condition or lugged the motor in the roll race.

 

ok that was just my guess...i just figured he had hit it at too low of rpm or while the throttle body was not all the way open

 

Well something like that happen on a Direct Port Kit?
I'm talking about the fuel puddling like I hear some people say about the wet kit.

 

What do you mean lugged the motor? Fuel pressure was around 50psi i would say. FPSS is installed. Window switch was set at 3300 rpms..hit the throttle at around 3000rpms. Activation is a WOT switch mounted on the TB.

 

even if you are at WOT, you can still lug the motor.

for example, a T56 car is cruising at 3000RPM in 6th gear and goes wide open throttle it will not increase in RPM as fast as WOT in First gear at 3000rpm
When the kit is activated the motor must be able to build RPM fast enough to not allow the intake to "load up".

A backfire is caused by igniting the mixture in the cylinder with the exhaust valve open...unless you have another ignition source...this ignites all of the fuel from the cylinder to the nozzle/plate.

Since you had a window switch it sounds like either a lean condition/detonation or ignition misfire that caused the backfire.

What was the A/F on the car....and did you verify the jetting provided the correct AF.

 

Fuel puddling with a properly installed/operated system is almost non existent

As long as the A/F is correct the fuel will be atomized to the point that it will not have time to seperate from the airflow before being pulled into the cylinder.