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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:25 AM
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Default What to build up next...

Well, I want a fast car. A really fast. A really, really, really fast car. My daily driver is pretty decent now, but it doesnt emobody the racing spirit. I added weight, have small brakes and refuse to install a roll cage. Now, I am looking to a fuutre project. Something I can start doing research on now so that when I start I will be some what knowledgable. Something that I will need a shop to work in and not my neighbours driveway, this way I can convince my better half that the house with a garage is more important than the house with a garden.

So, what are some fun projects out there? I drive a FR car now (05 GTO) and am looking to broaden my horizon with a MR or AWD. I am alos looking for lightweight. Whether the car is big or small doesnt really matter, just going for a leighter weight. Engine size doesnt matter since you can FI anything and make it really freaking quick. I also want to make this car a total road racer and not even worry about drag racing. The strip would be a side project, something fun to do on a weekend when I am not doing a time attack. This car would be the one I take to tracks across the west coast just to say I have raced there. Laguna Seca anyone?

Cars I have thought about include 90s Toyota MR2 and 90s AWD version of an Eclipses or Talons. A 1970s Nissan 240/280Z with a LSx dropped in it would be bad *** as well, but then its not AWD or MR. So, what else is out there that I am not thinking of? I was thinking some kind of Subaru, but the initial cost of an STI or WRX is too much IMO. I want a cheap car to buy, then mod the hell out of it.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 07:43 AM
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OOH! And I completely forgot about the Mitsubishi 3000GT. It a little on the heavy side, but I am sure some weight reduction could fix that. That car has always looked bad *** IMO.

I think this is the wrong board to be asking about what kind of foriegn car would make a good track car.... hehehe
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 08:48 AM
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Just by my vette next year and be done with it.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Ackattack1
Just by my vette next year and be done with it.
I agree or buy a used C5 Z06. Great starting point especially if you want to track the car. Will cost you less to go really, really, really, really fast than trying to get an import up to the same level with a reasonable level of reliability.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 11:52 AM
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I'm looking to not spend over $5K to buy the car. I want to buy it with cash (no monthly payment). So yes Ack, I will buy your Vette next year for that amount and be set

Whats a c5 z06 run? $25k? If I saved up even $15k cash I would pay off my goat. This way, I can save up to $5K and spend it on a project that I can slowly work on and keep busy instead of buying an expensive car and then sitting around for a few months before I can start modding it and tearing it apart. Besides, if I bought a z06 I would feel WAY too uncomfortable tearing the inside apart to bare metal and using it as a track car ONLY. Which is the goal here, track car only.

Last edited by karthalin; Apr 28, 2008 at 12:00 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 12:14 PM
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Don't forget about buying a tow vehicle for your track only car too....cause it's its truly track only, you won't want to drive it on the road (and may not be legal).

For example, real race brake pads don't stop well until they're heated up, and they won't get up to temperature driving down the road.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Ackattack1
Don't forget about buying a tow vehicle for your track only car too....cause it's its truly track only, you won't want to drive it on the road (and may not be legal).

For example, real race brake pads don't stop well until they're heated up, and they won't get up to temperature driving down the road.
I'll have to drive faster to the track.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 12:47 PM
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The key to what you are saying is you want it to be a project car. If that's the case, an old RX or Datsun or MR2 are all decent starting places. One of the more popular cars is also an old 3 series BMW. Also, don't overlook the Miata.

For more money you can go faster out of the box. Look into an older, high-miles, or maybe even salvage title, Porshe, Audi, C5 Vette, Evo, or Subie(WRX works fine 4 less $).
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by karthalin
Well, I want a fast car. A really fast. A really, really, really fast car.
What do you consider really, really, really fast? Definitons differ from person to person. Are we talking maybe 1400hp in 3200 car or faster?

Last edited by NVME; Apr 28, 2008 at 04:37 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by NVME
What do you consider really, really, really fast? Definitons differ from person to person. Are we talking maybe 1400hp in 3200 car or faster?
Closer to 800hp in a 2800 lb car. Mabye even lower hp figures. I want something fast around the track. Something that can rival a Porsche GT3, without having to get the loan to afford the GT3.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 04:54 PM
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I would do a Fox Body 'Stang with a LSx based engine Will easily run nines or faster with very little power adder
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
I would do a Fox Body 'Stang with a LSx based engine Will easily run nines or faster with very little power adder
"The right car with the right motor"
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by karthalin
Closer to 800hp in a 2800 lb car. Mabye even lower hp figures. I want something fast around the track. Something that can rival a Porsche GT3, without having to get the loan to afford the GT3.
You could do either a fox body 5.0 notch, a mid 90s 240 or a second gen RX7 with a LSx VERY cheap and it is mostly a bolt on affair these days. With a 6 speed you would weigh in around 2700-2800 full interior curb weight sans driver and make 500+ rwhp reliably on the stock long block with some boost. Then room to grow with a forged short block down the road. My .02. Good luck.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 12:56 AM
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The thing is, Casey, to go really, really, really fast on the road course doesn't take massive horsepower. It takes light weight, R compound tires, precise dynamics, massive brakes and the seat time to know how to use it.

At Pacific a sub 1:40 lap time is a serious competition time. Many of the spec Miata guys never see a 1:39. There are, however, plenty of cars that can reach that level. The best of the modified/stripped down street cars can get down to around 1:35. To get under 1:30 is another matter altogether. That's F1 car territory. I have seen a log for an 05 GTO showing a 1:39 lap time(car 100% set up for it with an experienced driver on a warm, dry course). Set realistic expectations and you'll avoid throwing money away only to end up disappointed. Me...I'm still shooting for a recorded 1:4X time. I think I've done it, but have no proof.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 01:11 AM
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/\

If you're wanting a road course car, screw HP. Find a car with good mechanical grip, focus your attention on keeping the car cool and invest in good brakes.

Learn to drive your car smooth and on the marks, speed will come. Not until you get running consistent times and cannot run any faster times should you upgrade your power. Be sure you put in your time on street compound tires to understand how your car reacts through the corners before getting R compound tires.

I would look into an older BMW 3 series and have heard great things about 944 Porsches for a grassroots lapping car from people have been there.


If you're wanting a (really really fast) drag car, I would just skip the BS and invest in a rail dragster chassis ... build from there.

Either way you crack it, to go "really really" fast it's going to be a tough battle with a limited budget so make sure you set your goals realistically.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 03:33 AM
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the ls1 swapped RX7 is a very good choice.... pick your discipline and it'll do it.... street, drag, road, autocross.... setup varies depending on what your focus is. weight can be brought down to under 2500# with some weight reduction.... full interiors are ~2700-2800... sometimes a little more depending on options.
right now there's a group buy going on for some BIG brakes(13" or 14" rotors?) for a second generation RX on V8rx7forum.
a nice clean 2nd-gen chassis can be had for $1000-$3000, the mount kit is ~350-500 drivetrain can vary 3500-6000+ and all the misc stuff adds up too $$.... but if you go one piece at a time it's not that bad on the pocketbook.

swapping them really gets under the skin of the rotary purists/***** too.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 05:43 AM
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Awesome posts! Putting things into perspective for me, giving me perfect ideas for what my next project would be. I would love to do the swaps as mentioned above (240SX, 240Z, RX7, Mustang) but they are all RWD. I was hoping to get the experience of a MR or AWD car, just to see what it is like driving one of those.

If I wanted to save money I would install a roll cage in the Goat and get a boost controller. Turn it up to 10psi and upgrade the brakes. Toss the Weld drag wheels I have and start running at Pacific. Its already a TT LS2. That would cost very little to accomplish (relative to a new project).

If I did do a LSx swap I would go with a 240SX or 240Z. I have always been in love with those cars and I think it would be simply bad ayss to rage around in them. Plus the after market scene for those cars is huge.

The two types of cars I have looked at mostly these past few weeks are the DSMs (2G body with a 1G motor) or a Mitsubishi 3000GT
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 06:10 AM
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What about a 3000GT with a LSx Twin Turbo? Could that work? I have no idea how AWD systems work, i.e. tranny interface with the differential(s). I need to take a peak under Kyles DSM. I think I would be one of a kind of a 3000GT-to-LSx swap, which would be pretty sweet in itself.
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 06:41 AM
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The AWD cars have a transversally mounted engine block, would that even work with a LSx V8?

While we are topic, what other little cars are out there that would be a good candidate for a LSx swap?
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Old Apr 29, 2008 | 10:46 AM
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You would be hard pressed to get a LSx in one of those

For the RR scene you would want to skip any power adders(blower, Turbo or juice) to keep the engine cool and in one piece
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