Broken bumper lip
Broken bumper lip Okay, so Mom pulled up on a parking curb that was recently made higher. Surprise! By the time she heard the crunch, it was too late. She still has the broken piece. Is there an easy way to fix this myself, without having to take it to a shop, or having to buy a brand new bumper?
As long as you have the piece you can fix it fairly easy. Go to a local parts/paint supplier like Oreillys and get sone 3m tpo/plastic repair. Take the piece and taper the edges and the bumper where it fits back in the hole good and sand the back side good with atleast 80 grit. Then use some masking tape to hold the piece in place, clean the backside good and apply a generous amout over the two part repair and allow to cure. Once it's dry sand the front side and apply to your beveled seam, allow to dry, sand down and primer. Hope this helps you out and good luck with the repair. Remember read and follow the instuctions on the plastic repair.
May or may not be cheaper to replace the entire bumper. You probably could get a cheap one from pick-a-part.
But if youre interested in fixing it yourself, here's what you should use for flexible plastic panels. Will require paint after fixing though..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/paint-bod...ill-holes.html
But if youre interested in fixing it yourself, here's what you should use for flexible plastic panels. Will require paint after fixing though..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/paint-bod...ill-holes.html
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 701
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From: chicago
geting a junkyard bumper is fine, but..............then you have the cost of repairing the bumper and painting,
the first and most important thing to remember is identifying the type of plastic, inside you will see the ISO code, which will say TPO/TPE/TEO/PP/ POLYUARTHENE IS ALWAYS YELLOW, ABS is used on saturns, and on some extrior parts on other cars as well
TPO/TPE/TEO/PP are all thermo set offlien type plastics which always always needs a adheshion promoter for anything to stick, plastic welding if fine and works really well
so now you have the plastic known, oh look it`s tpo plastic, and it has one big *** hole in it............no problem
using a D.A. is fine but through out the yrs i have found that lightly grinding BOTH sides of the plastic not just the backside, works allot better, and i mean with a small die grinder and lightly grinding just to get the paint off and rough up the plastic
i personally love using fusor products, gm to ford all use fusor, and the extreme plastic repair is a great product, if used in the wrong applications its not going to stick to nothing hence the use of the adheshion promoter
more in a few
the first and most important thing to remember is identifying the type of plastic, inside you will see the ISO code, which will say TPO/TPE/TEO/PP/ POLYUARTHENE IS ALWAYS YELLOW, ABS is used on saturns, and on some extrior parts on other cars as well
TPO/TPE/TEO/PP are all thermo set offlien type plastics which always always needs a adheshion promoter for anything to stick, plastic welding if fine and works really well
so now you have the plastic known, oh look it`s tpo plastic, and it has one big *** hole in it............no problem
using a D.A. is fine but through out the yrs i have found that lightly grinding BOTH sides of the plastic not just the backside, works allot better, and i mean with a small die grinder and lightly grinding just to get the paint off and rough up the plastic
i personally love using fusor products, gm to ford all use fusor, and the extreme plastic repair is a great product, if used in the wrong applications its not going to stick to nothing hence the use of the adheshion promoter
more in a few
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
From: chicago
ok..........................so now the plastic is grinded, your hands are going to be all over the plastic, offlien plastics are very oily and greasy in production and this goes for any plastic repair/custom work as well
clean the plastic before applying adheshion promoter and or a repair material
our hands are oily and dirty and greasy and if not cleaned your repair can fail, so if you do not have acsess to plastic cleaner you can use a amonia free glass cleaner to clean the plastic before anything goes on
with a hole this big and with both sides of the bumper and the broken part both sides are beveled i would plastic weld in the piece first, not only is it for strenght but it keeps it in place when you applying the material
once it cools down, clean it off again, then apply the adheshion promoter and it has to dry for 10-15 mins, it has to dry that long
once the time is up go ahead and apply your repair material to both sides of the plastic, i leave it bond for 24 hours, you dont have to products dry faster but its my habit and it works well
come back the next day use your D.A. with 80, feathering the repair, again clean it off, apply adheshion promoter, apply the finish coat<again fusor 114, i start off with 120 then i block with 120, if ya need more apply more the norm is about 2 coats of fusor 114
the primer there is no need for flexable primer, i use ppgs ncp 271, but again i use a adheshion promoter then i apply primer on plastic it helps
so thats the correct i have been doing plastic repair/custom for yrs doing it the way i just typed out
for a guess on cost for this type of repair 500-750
clean the plastic before applying adheshion promoter and or a repair material
our hands are oily and dirty and greasy and if not cleaned your repair can fail, so if you do not have acsess to plastic cleaner you can use a amonia free glass cleaner to clean the plastic before anything goes on
with a hole this big and with both sides of the bumper and the broken part both sides are beveled i would plastic weld in the piece first, not only is it for strenght but it keeps it in place when you applying the material
once it cools down, clean it off again, then apply the adheshion promoter and it has to dry for 10-15 mins, it has to dry that long
once the time is up go ahead and apply your repair material to both sides of the plastic, i leave it bond for 24 hours, you dont have to products dry faster but its my habit and it works well
come back the next day use your D.A. with 80, feathering the repair, again clean it off, apply adheshion promoter, apply the finish coat<again fusor 114, i start off with 120 then i block with 120, if ya need more apply more the norm is about 2 coats of fusor 114
the primer there is no need for flexable primer, i use ppgs ncp 271, but again i use a adheshion promoter then i apply primer on plastic it helps
so thats the correct i have been doing plastic repair/custom for yrs doing it the way i just typed out
for a guess on cost for this type of repair 500-750
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Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: southeast houston 45s and beltway8
As long as you have the piece you can fix it fairly easy. Go to a local parts/paint supplier like Oreillys and get sone 3m tpo/plastic repair. Take the piece and taper the edges and the bumper where it fits back in the hole good and sand the back side good with atleast 80 grit. Then use some masking tape to hold the piece in place, clean the backside good and apply a generous amout over the two part repair and allow to cure. Once it's dry sand the front side and apply to your beveled seam, allow to dry, sand down and primer. Hope this helps you out and good luck with the repair. Remember read and follow the instuctions on the plastic repair.
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Verdad Gallardo Okay, so I've never taken off the bumper myself before. Is there somewhere I can look up that will help me step by step exactly what to do? I mean, I know there are a few fasteners by where the hood meets the bumper and stuff, but that's it.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: southeast houston 45s and beltway8
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
From: chicago
Okay, so once again, is there somewhere I can get a step by step guide on exactly how to remove the front bumper? never done this before and don't wanna "F" this up.
