Orange Peel in a single stage
Orange Peel in a single stage Ok so we painted my brothers Fbody in a single stage gloss black with a little flatness added to it. After it dried we wet sanded with a 400 grit and used a cheap ricerzone orbitial buffer and now it still has a nice case of orange peel to it. What do we need to do now? Buff it with a better buffer or what? Thanks
holy crap 400 grit n you still have orange peel,should have started with something finer,but if you still have peel in it start with 1000 then 1500 then 2000 then buff,be careful cause youll be getting close to cutting though,stay off the edges!
this might also be because the paint wasnt cured enough n it dyed back down or the surface underneith wasnt smooth enough,anyway be careful or you might be repainting.
this might also be because the paint wasnt cured enough n it dyed back down or the surface underneith wasnt smooth enough,anyway be careful or you might be repainting.
Yeah that paints needs a couple days to fully cure and settle down. Then wet sanding a LOT with 1000 grit will do it. To do it by hand, you're probably looking at an hour or two per panel, not a quick wipe over. And use a block, just not a hard rubber one, get a foam rubber block at O'Reilly for just a couple bucks. That's what I use.
A polished will remove find sanding scratches but not orange peel. Sand it flat with 1000 then smooth it out with 2000 before polishing. I got an adjustable speed polisher at Harbor Freight that works great.
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Verdad Gallardo If you get a base and have to add reducer to the mix , I didnt add enough which didnt let the paint flow easy and caused orange peel . some paints come premixed but most of those are extremely thin and cause alot of runs .
Not just how much thinner you use, but the settings of your spray gun matter a lot as well. Either you had your paint flow too high or your air pressure was too low. Both conditions cause a spatter-like effect with the end result being orange peel.
I'd say your paint job is salvageable but it's gonna require a LOT more work in wet sanding, and hence a lot of time. The worst of paint jobs can be made to look like the best with enough "after-work."
A lot of these body shop owners on here will just tell you to take it to a shop, but a fellow enthusiast will give helpful advice.
I'd say your paint job is salvageable but it's gonna require a LOT more work in wet sanding, and hence a lot of time. The worst of paint jobs can be made to look like the best with enough "after-work."
A lot of these body shop owners on here will just tell you to take it to a shop, but a fellow enthusiast will give helpful advice.
I always test on a piece of cardboard before I spray a panel. Just a quick pull of the trigger shows the pattern and how fine or thick the mist is. I make my adjustments and test on the cardboard until its right. I do it after every time i refill the cup even if it's the same paint I was just spraying since every time you mix could be slightly different.
