- Camaro and Firebird Paint Modifications<br>Overview of popular modifications to customize your Camaro or Firebird.
Bubbling Sail Panel Issue for Dummies
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
The TSB says "Remove using wire method". I began asking around and was told this meant using braided or piano wire to cut the part off (same as a windshield). I wondered why this is not discussed in this thread. I found a tool on line but disovered some wire at my work place and made two handles. I called my local salvage yard and after some convincing, they agreed to let me try and cut the part off of a car. I knew the problem started around the '98-'99 model so I made certain it was a car prior to this. The T-Top car I found actually had some clearcoat flaking off and was dull, but in good shape ('96 with no bubbles). The owner at the junk yard agreed to let me try because he thought it would be impossible. After masking the edges and removing the T-Top divider bar, I slid the wire under the edge, and began sawing through the urethane while standing inside the car (pulling the saw upward). Initially it was very difficult and just when I thought "this is not working", the wire began slicing through easily, until I reached the same lower section on the other side. I later realized it is most difficult at the start (near the 1/4) because I was cutting parallel to the bead of urethane. 30 minutes later, I paid the owner $25 (his minimum charge) and headed to my painter. To be certain, what I was doing would work on another car, the next evening I masked my 1/4 panels and door seals, and cut the bad part off of my car using the same method. (there was an obvious smell that came from underneath, and when I flipped the part over, you could see how a chemical had bled out across the part from the urethane strip). Long story short, $100 to paint, and $30 for the adhesive from glass supply house in town (part # on SB), $25 for the part = $155 total replacement costs (and a little sweat). The part looks perfect. One of my SS owner friend's looked it over and could not believe it. This worked for me and my T-Top car. I would seriously doubt you could use the same method on a hardtop due to the sheer volume of urethane to cut through.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
FWIW, the parts to repair the problem are about $550-ish from gmpartsdirect shipped. Shitty, but oh well. I'm tired of fighting with people over this. I just want it fixed so I can move on.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
The only thing that ever came out was a technical service bulletin - it said how to fix it, and essentially proves they know there was (and still is) a problem with the urethane they chose, but it in no way means they'll fix it at their cost.
The TSB says "Remove using wire method". I began asking around and was told this meant using braided or piano wire to cut the part off (same as a windshield). I wondered why this is not discussed in this thread. I found a tool on line but disovered some wire at my work place and made two handles. I called my local salvage yard and after some convincing, they agreed to let me try and cut the part off of a car. I knew the problem started around the '98-'99 model so I made certain it was a car prior to this. The T-Top car I found actually had some clearcoat flaking off and was dull, but in good shape ('96 with no bubbles). The owner at the junk yard agreed to let me try because he thought it would be impossible. After masking the edges and removing the T-Top divider bar, I slid the wire under the edge, and began sawing through the urethane while standing inside the car (pulling the saw upward). Initially it was very difficult and just when I thought "this is not working", the wire began slicing through easily, until I reached the same lower section on the other side. I later realized it is most difficult at the start (near the 1/4) because I was cutting parallel to the bead of urethane. 30 minutes later, I paid the owner $25 (his minimum charge) and headed to my painter. To be certain, what I was doing would work on another car, the next evening I masked my 1/4 panels and door seals, and cut the bad part off of my car using the same method. (there was an obvious smell that came from underneath, and when I flipped the part over, you could see how a chemical had bled out across the part from the urethane strip). Long story short, $100 to paint, and $30 for the adhesive from glass supply house in town (part # on SB), $25 for the part = $155 total replacement costs (and a little sweat). The part looks perfect. One of my SS owner friend's looked it over and could not believe it. This worked for me and my T-Top car. I would seriously doubt you could use the same method on a hardtop due to the sheer volume of urethane to cut through.
I have some of the bubbles, but they haven't become a complete eyesore - YET! They are getting there though...





