May 10, 2016, 02:15 PM
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Bubbling Sail Panel Issue for Dummies
This is a huge problem on these cars. Every single 99 and up car I have seen has this damn problem. Mine only has 46k miles on it and its got it going on. Just makes me sick to my stomach to see it happening to my other wise beautiful car.
My car has this too! As far as I know, it has never been taken in for the repair. So my question is, can I still take it in and get it fixed by the dealer or is it too late?
can I still take it in and get it fixed by the dealer or is it too late?
I have heard of people getting this fixed when they have under 36k miles, but when its over that it becomes real tough. I had to go to the BBB to get this resolved and was able to prove it should be covered under the 6yr/100k paint protection warranty. But since that six years is up now, if you don't know a dealer real well you are probably going to have to pay for this out of pocket.
Yeah. People have tried painting over it. And it doesn't work. There is a problem with the glue GM used and the only way to clean it up is by removing the roof, which destroys it. The part number is listed in the TSB's that have been posted near the beginning of this thread.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
From: Left Coast, USA
I fixed my bubbled up roof for almost no Money! I've been watching these threads for about a year now and it would make me sick everytime I walked into the garage and saw those bubbles. I know that the only fix is to replace the part (I found the threads after my paint guy tried 3 times to paint the panel, and I googled to find the problem). The part is GM only and it aint cheap (for my budget anyways). There is a great picture layout on this topic somewhere on this thread that shows how to replace the part with a new one but they basically cut the old part up and broke off the rest. Lying in bed one night, an idea popped into my head. I'm here to say that I just fixed mine a couple of weeks ago for almost no $$ and it was easier than I thought it would be. I've been saving this because I wanted to post with a video or pics on how I replaced mine without spending a lot of cash, but I got over anxious and didnt capture it on film when I did the repair. I may find another one to cut off just so I can take pics (or to sell the part).
The TSB says "Remove using wire method". I began asking around and was told this meant using braided or piano wire to cut the part off (same as a windshield). I wondered why this is not discussed in this thread. I found a tool on line but disovered some wire at my work place and made two handles. I called my local salvage yard and after some convincing, they agreed to let me try and cut the part off of a car. I knew the problem started around the '98-'99 model so I made certain it was a car prior to this. The T-Top car I found actually had some clearcoat flaking off and was dull, but in good shape ('96 with no bubbles). The owner at the junk yard agreed to let me try because he thought it would be impossible. After masking the edges and removing the T-Top divider bar, I slid the wire under the edge, and began sawing through the urethane while standing inside the car (pulling the saw upward). Initially it was very difficult and just when I thought "this is not working", the wire began slicing through easily, until I reached the same lower section on the other side. I later realized it is most difficult at the start (near the 1/4) because I was cutting parallel to the bead of urethane. 30 minutes later, I paid the owner $25 (his minimum charge) and headed to my painter. To be certain, what I was doing would work on another car, the next evening I masked my 1/4 panels and door seals, and cut the bad part off of my car using the same method. (there was an obvious smell that came from underneath, and when I flipped the part over, you could see how a chemical had bled out across the part from the urethane strip). Long story short, $100 to paint, and $30 for the adhesive from glass supply house in town (part # on SB), $25 for the part = $155 total replacement costs (and a little sweat). The part looks perfect. One of my SS owner friend's looked it over and could not believe it. This worked for me and my T-Top car. I would seriously doubt you could use the same method on a hardtop due to the sheer volume of urethane to cut through.
The TSB says "Remove using wire method". I began asking around and was told this meant using braided or piano wire to cut the part off (same as a windshield). I wondered why this is not discussed in this thread. I found a tool on line but disovered some wire at my work place and made two handles. I called my local salvage yard and after some convincing, they agreed to let me try and cut the part off of a car. I knew the problem started around the '98-'99 model so I made certain it was a car prior to this. The T-Top car I found actually had some clearcoat flaking off and was dull, but in good shape ('96 with no bubbles). The owner at the junk yard agreed to let me try because he thought it would be impossible. After masking the edges and removing the T-Top divider bar, I slid the wire under the edge, and began sawing through the urethane while standing inside the car (pulling the saw upward). Initially it was very difficult and just when I thought "this is not working", the wire began slicing through easily, until I reached the same lower section on the other side. I later realized it is most difficult at the start (near the 1/4) because I was cutting parallel to the bead of urethane. 30 minutes later, I paid the owner $25 (his minimum charge) and headed to my painter. To be certain, what I was doing would work on another car, the next evening I masked my 1/4 panels and door seals, and cut the bad part off of my car using the same method. (there was an obvious smell that came from underneath, and when I flipped the part over, you could see how a chemical had bled out across the part from the urethane strip). Long story short, $100 to paint, and $30 for the adhesive from glass supply house in town (part # on SB), $25 for the part = $155 total replacement costs (and a little sweat). The part looks perfect. One of my SS owner friend's looked it over and could not believe it. This worked for me and my T-Top car. I would seriously doubt you could use the same method on a hardtop due to the sheer volume of urethane to cut through.
Well, add me to the club damnit! I have read some of this thread, not all 58 pages and it seems that it is too late to take it to a dealer.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
Well, add me to the club damnit! I have read some of this thread, not all 58 pages and it seems that it is too late to take it to a dealer.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
FWIW, the parts to repair the problem are about $550-ish from gmpartsdirect shipped. Shitty, but oh well. I'm tired of fighting with people over this. I just want it fixed so I can move on.
Well, add me to the club damnit! I have read some of this thread, not all 58 pages and it seems that it is too late to take it to a dealer.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 188
Likes: 7
From: ENGLAND
Well, add me to the club damnit! I have read some of this thread, not all 58 pages and it seems that it is too late to take it to a dealer.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
What is the proper way of fixing this? I guess I have to order a new roof panel from gmpartsdirect and having a body shop paint it, remove the old one and replace with the new one to do this properly, correct?
Does anyone know anyone RELIABLE around the Saint Louis area to do this work? Estimate on price to paint and replace the panel? Dixxielegger...you coming to Saint Louis anytime soon???? I'll just pay you to do it!
As a side note, I just joined the cracked door panel club too and just replaced the passenger window motor...the car has 26k miles on it. I wish I didn't love my car so damn much or I would just sell it.
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 217
Likes: 0
From: WI
I play guitar and tried strings I had laying around on a rear window replacement and they didn't work to well. We did have success with some welding wire, seemed less prone to breakage. Not sure if the adhesive for the sails is as tough as window adhesive...
Teching In
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
Don't get your hopes up...there never was a recall on this one. Good luck getting GM to cover anything.
The only thing that ever came out was a technical service bulletin - it said how to fix it, and essentially proves they know there was (and still is) a problem with the urethane they chose, but it in no way means they'll fix it at their cost.
The only thing that ever came out was a technical service bulletin - it said how to fix it, and essentially proves they know there was (and still is) a problem with the urethane they chose, but it in no way means they'll fix it at their cost.
I've been watching these threads for about a year now and it would make me sick everytime I walked into the garage and saw those bubbles. I know that the only fix is to replace the part (I found the threads after my paint guy tried 3 times to paint the panel, and I googled to find the problem). The part is GM only and it aint cheap (for my budget anyways). There is a great picture layout on this topic somewhere on this thread that shows how to replace the part with a new one but they basically cut the old part up and broke off the rest. Lying in bed one night, an idea popped into my head. I'm here to say that I just fixed mine a couple of weeks ago for almost no $$ and it was easier than I thought it would be. I've been saving this because I wanted to post with a video or pics on how I replaced mine without spending a lot of cash, but I got over anxious and didnt capture it on film when I did the repair. I may find another one to cut off just so I can take pics (or to sell the part).
The TSB says "Remove using wire method". I began asking around and was told this meant using braided or piano wire to cut the part off (same as a windshield). I wondered why this is not discussed in this thread. I found a tool on line but disovered some wire at my work place and made two handles. I called my local salvage yard and after some convincing, they agreed to let me try and cut the part off of a car. I knew the problem started around the '98-'99 model so I made certain it was a car prior to this. The T-Top car I found actually had some clearcoat flaking off and was dull, but in good shape ('96 with no bubbles). The owner at the junk yard agreed to let me try because he thought it would be impossible. After masking the edges and removing the T-Top divider bar, I slid the wire under the edge, and began sawing through the urethane while standing inside the car (pulling the saw upward). Initially it was very difficult and just when I thought "this is not working", the wire began slicing through easily, until I reached the same lower section on the other side. I later realized it is most difficult at the start (near the 1/4) because I was cutting parallel to the bead of urethane. 30 minutes later, I paid the owner $25 (his minimum charge) and headed to my painter. To be certain, what I was doing would work on another car, the next evening I masked my 1/4 panels and door seals, and cut the bad part off of my car using the same method. (there was an obvious smell that came from underneath, and when I flipped the part over, you could see how a chemical had bled out across the part from the urethane strip). Long story short, $100 to paint, and $30 for the adhesive from glass supply house in town (part # on SB), $25 for the part = $155 total replacement costs (and a little sweat). The part looks perfect. One of my SS owner friend's looked it over and could not believe it. This worked for me and my T-Top car. I would seriously doubt you could use the same method on a hardtop due to the sheer volume of urethane to cut through.
The TSB says "Remove using wire method". I began asking around and was told this meant using braided or piano wire to cut the part off (same as a windshield). I wondered why this is not discussed in this thread. I found a tool on line but disovered some wire at my work place and made two handles. I called my local salvage yard and after some convincing, they agreed to let me try and cut the part off of a car. I knew the problem started around the '98-'99 model so I made certain it was a car prior to this. The T-Top car I found actually had some clearcoat flaking off and was dull, but in good shape ('96 with no bubbles). The owner at the junk yard agreed to let me try because he thought it would be impossible. After masking the edges and removing the T-Top divider bar, I slid the wire under the edge, and began sawing through the urethane while standing inside the car (pulling the saw upward). Initially it was very difficult and just when I thought "this is not working", the wire began slicing through easily, until I reached the same lower section on the other side. I later realized it is most difficult at the start (near the 1/4) because I was cutting parallel to the bead of urethane. 30 minutes later, I paid the owner $25 (his minimum charge) and headed to my painter. To be certain, what I was doing would work on another car, the next evening I masked my 1/4 panels and door seals, and cut the bad part off of my car using the same method. (there was an obvious smell that came from underneath, and when I flipped the part over, you could see how a chemical had bled out across the part from the urethane strip). Long story short, $100 to paint, and $30 for the adhesive from glass supply house in town (part # on SB), $25 for the part = $155 total replacement costs (and a little sweat). The part looks perfect. One of my SS owner friend's looked it over and could not believe it. This worked for me and my T-Top car. I would seriously doubt you could use the same method on a hardtop due to the sheer volume of urethane to cut through.
I have some of the bubbles, but they haven't become a complete eyesore - YET! They are getting there though...