RPMs float ~2k when clutch goes in. LS1 Edit Solution?
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I just received LS1 Edit this week.
One problem that I'm trying to fix is the following:
I recently installed a TR 224/224-114 camshaft. The car runs great, but if I'm driving and press in the clutch the RPMS will stay around 2000. If I let out the clutch a little and let it slightly grab, then the RPMS will drop on down and stay normal.
Do I need to drill my throttle body hole (it is still stock) or do I need to do something with LS1 Edit? Please let me know if you know what the problem may be.
Thanks,
David
One problem that I'm trying to fix is the following:
I recently installed a TR 224/224-114 camshaft. The car runs great, but if I'm driving and press in the clutch the RPMS will stay around 2000. If I let out the clutch a little and let it slightly grab, then the RPMS will drop on down and stay normal.
Do I need to drill my throttle body hole (it is still stock) or do I need to do something with LS1 Edit? Please let me know if you know what the problem may be.
Thanks,
David
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The idle problem started before I ever tuned the vehicle. I only received LS1 Edit this week and I haven't done any serious tuning yet. I've only done the basics such as rev limiter, gear changes, etc.
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dvstate-try searching "IAC",this sould lead you to some valueable info on idle tuning cars with cams.Look over on http://www.ls1tuning.com/iboard/,there is some great info there also.Just remeber not all cars react the same.You may have to try different variations from the info you find to get yours right.Looking at some of these file might help also. http://www.ls1edit.com/filelib/
It may take you several tries,but hang in there.I've reflashed mine about a million times it seems like for idle,and it not perfect just jet,but pretty close.One of the tables I had to adjust on mine is the Open Loop F/A.I scaled all temps & up to 60kpa back 15%.
Also try searching by members.Chris B,NOGO,and Cal have provided some great info in thier posts.
Tony
It may take you several tries,but hang in there.I've reflashed mine about a million times it seems like for idle,and it not perfect just jet,but pretty close.One of the tables I had to adjust on mine is the Open Loop F/A.I scaled all temps & up to 60kpa back 15%.
Also try searching by members.Chris B,NOGO,and Cal have provided some great info in thier posts.
Tony
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Funny, mine's actually been doin that a bit lately and as you can see from my sig, I'm pretty much stock. All stock motor, just the cat back and I'm running !cats right now. I have had some problems with the MAF connection causing it to not find and idle and just die, but I've found that unplugging the maf and re-connecting it fixes that. Is there any way that this problem could be related to the MAF? Anyone?
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I recently installed a TR 224/224-114 camshaft. The car runs great, but if I'm driving and press in the clutch the RPMS will stay around 2000. If I let out the clutch a little and let it slightly grab, then the RPMS will drop on down and stay normal.
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My car did the same thing in the Australian version of ls1edit we have in the engine file/idle+limiters,throttle cracker click on airflow it is in this table that you can fix the problem no more need to drill out throttle bodys.as a starting point mutiply the whole table by 50%,if you do not have it in you version of ls1edit ask ken kelly,hope this helps.
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My car did the same thing in the Australian version of ls1edit we have in the engine file/idle+limiters,throttle cracker click on airflow it is in this table that you can fix the problem no more need to drill out throttle bodys.as a starting point mutiply the whole table by 50%,if you do not have it in you version of ls1edit ask ken kelly,hope this helps.
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I have the same problem with my new cam. I went from the thuder 224/224 114 to a bigger one and now my rpms do the same thing. When I hit 10 MPH in nuetral they start to go down. I have read NOGOs articles and such and I have edited the P/N aiflow decay dramaticly with very little result. I have tried multiple other settings in Edit also. Its funny that you mention drilling out your TB hole because mine is drilled and I thougt it may be too big so I was going to borrow a stock one
. The MAF idea is interesting. I was starting to wonder if it could be somethind like that going bad. Maybe I will borrow my friends MAF also. If anybody else can shed some light on this issue it would be great.
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Editing the Throttle Cracker might solve that problem.
EDIT- DAMMIT Its on the next version (1.3), this sucks. OH well I am putting the car away for the winter sat anyway. I guess I will pay for the upgrade before next spring. It still sucks
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Originally Posted by 9T9BlueTA
I have the same problem with my new cam. I went from the thuder 224/224 114 to a bigger one and now my rpms do the same thing. When I hit 10 MPH in nuetral they start to go down. I have read NOGOs articles and such and I have edited the P/N aiflow decay dramaticly with very little result. I have tried multiple other settings in Edit also. Its funny that you mention drilling out your TB hole because mine is drilled and I thougt it may be too big so I was going to borrow a stock one
. The MAF idea is interesting. I was starting to wonder if it could be somethind like that going bad. Maybe I will borrow my friends MAF also. If anybody else can shed some light on this issue it would be great.
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you can up your idle speed slightly to bring them inline (25-35 range hot) or throw on another t-body blade
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