dvstate

iTrader: (3)

I just received LS1 Edit this week.

One problem that I'm trying to fix is the following:

I recently installed a TR 224/224-114 camshaft. The car runs great, but if I'm driving and press in the clutch the RPMS will stay around 2000. If I let out the clutch a little and let it slightly grab, then the RPMS will drop on down and stay normal.

Do I need to drill my throttle body hole (it is still stock) or do I need to do something with LS1 Edit? Please let me know if you know what the problem may be.

Thanks,
David

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

How long has the tune been in teh car runnning

dvstate

iTrader: (3)

The idle problem started before I ever tuned the vehicle. I only received LS1 Edit this week and I haven't done any serious tuning yet. I've only done the basics such as rev limiter, gear changes, etc.

Smitty

dvstate-try searching "IAC",this sould lead you to some valueable info on idle tuning cars with cams.Look over on http://www.ls1tuning.com/iboard/,there is some great info there also.Just remeber not all cars react the same.You may have to try different variations from the info you find to get yours right.Looking at some of these file might help also. http://www.ls1edit.com/filelib/
It may take you several tries,but hang in there.I've reflashed mine about a million times it seems like for idle,and it not perfect just jet,but pretty close.One of the tables I had to adjust on mine is the Open Loop F/A.I scaled all temps & up to 60kpa back 15%.
Also try searching by members.Chris B,NOGO,and Cal have provided some great info in thier posts.
Tony

pimpmaro

Funny, mine's actually been doin that a bit lately and as you can see from my sig, I'm pretty much stock. All stock motor, just the cat back and I'm running !cats right now. I have had some problems with the MAF connection causing it to not find and idle and just die, but I've found that unplugging the maf and re-connecting it fixes that. Is there any way that this problem could be related to the MAF? Anyone?

Cal

iTrader: (1)

My car did that same exact thing right after installing the TR224 114 cam. To trouble shoot the probem, I even installed my own push button switch in place of the clutch switch, and sure enough I could manipulate the problem usning the button. After I drove around for a couple of days, the PCM apparently learned to stop doing that and it hasn't done it since. But . . . the button is neatly tucked up under the dash pannel if I should ever need it again!

BLO-305

My car did the same thing in the Australian version of ls1edit we have in the engine file/idle+limiters,throttle cracker click on airflow it is in this table that you can fix the problem no more need to drill out throttle bodys.as a starting point mutiply the whole table by 50%,if you do not have it in you version of ls1edit ask ken kelly,hope this helps.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

If the IAC is maxed out, there is no way reprogramming anything on the PCM can allow more air into the engine; the throttle plate will have to be drilled. Only exception is the throttle-by-wire system used on the Corvettes.

9T9BlueTA

iTrader: (2)

I have the same problem with my new cam. I went from the thuder 224/224 114 to a bigger one and now my rpms do the same thing. When I hit 10 MPH in nuetral they start to go down. I have read NOGOs articles and such and I have edited the P/N aiflow decay dramaticly with very little result. I have tried multiple other settings in Edit also. Its funny that you mention drilling out your TB hole because mine is drilled and I thougt it may be too big so I was going to borrow a stock one . The MAF idea is interesting. I was starting to wonder if it could be somethind like that going bad. Maybe I will borrow my friends MAF also. If anybody else can shed some light on this issue it would be great.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

Editing the Throttle Cracker might solve that problem.

9T9BlueTA

iTrader: (2)

What option is the throttle cracker? I am using ver 1.21 and dont see it.

EDIT- DAMMIT Its on the next version (1.3), this sucks. OH well I am putting the car away for the winter sat anyway. I guess I will pay for the upgrade before next spring. It still sucks .

CHRISPY

If you look at your IAC counts at idle warm and they go near zero then you know the hole in the t-body is too big. (IAC is fighting to get down to desired idle speed)

you can up your idle speed slightly to bring them inline (25-35 range hot) or throw on another t-body blade