rickbat

iTrader: (3)

So i think im lacking a starting point with this setup to get to an idle to start tuning. Wondering if anyone with a similar setup would be willing to share there tune file so i can compare.

Mostly interested in airflow/fuel and timing set to get this setup to run.


HP Tuners PCM 2002 Fbody

Stock bottom end LS1 5.7

Vindicator Cam 240/244 .608/.596 112+4

Trick Flow 215 heads

Bosch 48lb injectors

MSD Airforce 102mm intake

Fast 102 Big Mouth TB

Texas Speed 100mm MAF

3” Exhaust X pipe with LT headers

Aeromotive A1000-6 Fuel Regulator

Pulse_GTO

iTrader: (2)

Those 100mm MAFs can be tricky to get to idle nicely since the inlet is right by the air filter lid. Those MAFs prefer at least 6 inches of straight inlet track to avoid low speed turbulence. I've seen some people have good success adding a honeycomb in front of the sensor in the MAF housing to help straighten the income air.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

That's a pretty rowdy cam for a LS1. You will probably have to run it in open loop at idle.

Make sure your injector data is spot on.

Disable the MAF and start tuning the VE first.

I'd add a couple grams to the BRAF, adjust the TB to get the IAC counts around 40-50 at operating temp. Take out 30% of the VE under 1200.

I'm guessing it's going to idle in the 70kpa range.

I have a LS1 w/ the TFS as cast 220, FAST 102/102, a cam that is a little smaller than yours, and twin turbo.

I'm on my work computer at the moment and can't look at the tune file at the moment.

As mentioned, I'd definitely get a honeycomb for that MAF. That will help the low speed signal, but honestly after it's all said and done, I'd have the MAF take over around 3k rpm.

The last car I tuned with that MAF, didn't have a very big cam in it, and the signal was garbage at idle and low speeds before he got the honeycomb.

mrvedit

All excellent advice above.
Also, set desired idle speed to 1000 RPM, you might be able get down to 900 after a good tune, but start higher.
With a similar cam and TB (but 7L engine) I had to drill a moderate hole (3/16"?) into the throttle blade for the IAC to supply enough air for cold starts.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

With a 102 T/B, I wouldn't think you would have to drill a hole. I know people have different ideas on it.

With a TB that big, when you open it, you are uncovering a lot of surface area compared to a smaller TB.

I'm glad you mentioned setting the idle at 1000.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

I looked at the tune. I'd start over with the new injector data,
force open loop
hack a bunch of fuel out of the VE,
open the T/B 1/4 turn
disable idle adaptives

txh0tb0i972

iTrader: (63)

i believe with 102mm tb you also have to adjust ETC Area Scalar. I would confirm/post the injector part number to ensure we are reviewing the correct injector data.

Im guessing you messed with your tune prior to posting. Scanning through the tabs i just noticed a few things i would probably put differently like the setting on the max speed in spark table being disabled after 4mph? Im not sure if something im not aware of but you want to keep you main spark table enabled, so i would raise that. also your knock sensor max tip in is 35%? i personally would change that to 100%. Also seen some other things in DFCO but not sure if you're wanting DFCO or trying to disable it. Also, saw you requested PE at 0-1200 RPM at 0% tps? not sure the reason behind that either

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

You only have to adjust the ETC scaler if its DBW.

rickbat

iTrader: (3)

So big thanks to all chiming in here with info and things to try and look at... Huge help last time i tuned this car was 2007 with a completely different setup. Trying to knock the rust loss out of my head and this helps a lot!

So number one is get car to idle so i can start gathering data! What I'm fighting at the moment is car does not want to idle and if you keep messing with it it runs just long enough to fuel foul the plugs till they need replaced. Not fun to keep swapping 8 plugs out after 10minutes of trying to get idle. Grrrrrrrr....

So after reading this and other post on HP tuners site I'm thinking start here and see if i can idle....

1. Change another set of plugs since they are trashed again!
2. Take out 30% of the VE under 1200.
3. Disable idle adaptives
4. Unplug MAF or disable till 3000rpm range.
5. Adjust the TB to get the IAC counts around 40-50 at operating temp. "I'm sure it will need adjusted open a bit at least to get started..."

Few other points:
The Texas Speed 100mm MAF does have honey comb built in.
Injectors are Texas Speed Bosch 48lb they did provide the table date for the injectors and i have updated to spec.

Links to few other good reads incase anyone else if following this. Even after reading these i need a running idle to get started...

https://forum.hptuners.com/showthrea...large+cam+idle

http://www.masterenginetuner.com/ls-big-cam-idle.html

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

These combo of files and guides Ive used over the years and have been able to tune just about anything.

mrvedit

You are probably right about not needing to drill the TB plate. I'm on my 6th intake system on my LS2 and LS3 engine and perhaps mixed up which TB I drilled. Or I got a better idle by starting with the blade completely closed. I therefore updated my earlier post.

rickbat

iTrader: (3)

This evening completed the following. Car starts stumbles and dies. Cant run long enough to get any data.

1. Change another set of plugs since they are trashed again!
2. Take out 30% of the VE under 1200.
3. Disable idle adaptives
4. Unplug MAF
5. Set TB partial open with set screw. "could not run to get counts". to get the IAC counts around 40-50 at operating temp. "I'm sure it will need adjusted open a bit at least to get started..."

So just a little more background:
I just had the car running and drove it out of the garage and around driveway before it last fuel fouled the plugs. Then I fixed a fairly large leak on the intake with new gaskets. Now im at a no run condition. Car fires up sounds good and shuts. Yes VATS is disabled.

Running low on ideas. I may need to load the stock file like suggested above but will have a hand full of changes that need made to even get the car to run like VATS and disabling emissions etc. I have been trying you avoid starting from scratch.

Also just noticed when trying to scan im not seeing TPS sensor. Not sure if that would cause a no idle condition though. So could be Hp Tuners not reading for some reason, Bad sensor, bad wire.

Attaching last HPT file and useless log since wont run.

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

If you're fouling plugs rich there's no point in messing with anything else with idle. The injector data needs work or your VE and MAF isn't in the ballpark yet. If your injector data is good, don't be afraid to take large chunks of adding or subtracting in the VE or MAF tables. If your desired airflow, commanded AFR, desired idle rpm, and timing are in the ballpark it should idle well.

rickbat

iTrader: (3)

1. Change another set of plugs since they are trashed again!
2. Take out 30% of the VE under 1200.
3. Disable idle adaptives
4. Unplug MAF or disable till 3000rpm range.
5. Adjust the TB to get the IAC counts around 40-50 at operating temp. "I'm sure it will need adjusted open a bit at least to get started..."

That was before the above was done. It would file the plugs but it ran for 30minutes or more.

The latest file i attached I removed 33% from VE 400-1200rpm.

rickbat

iTrader: (3)

Fuel injector data with flow data.

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-17053-...-set-of-8.aspx

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

Do you have a wideband on the car?

rickbat

iTrader: (3)

Sure do...

ddnspider

iTrader: (26)

what's it idling at? You shouldn't be fouling plugs if thr AFR is in the ballpark.

txh0tb0i972

iTrader: (63)

nothing in that log

just accessory mode log it seems and only like 6 channels being logged

subeone

iTrader: (5)

Post the file I’ll get you a base file