Anyone had this issue?
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Anyone had this issue? Stock 01 auto c5. PCM tables appear stock, though the OS number matches a 2003 on efilive's site (flash at a dealer maybe?). Anywho, stock timing tables + 93 octane = audible knock like a ***** in church. Take 4 degrees out of the high table, audible knock goes away and reported KR drops to about 3 degrees or so (from 6-7).
I suppose once it warms up a tad I'll have to start with looking at fixing the pcv system.
I suppose once it warms up a tad I'll have to start with looking at fixing the pcv system.
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Thank you captain obvious. 
It was richish, lower 12.x on the 2nd pull. 3rd pull was actually a tad leaner, while picking up power AND less kr.
Now answer my other question in your thread!
It was richish, lower 12.x on the 2nd pull. 3rd pull was actually a tad leaner, while picking up power AND less kr.Now answer my other question in your thread!
Originally Posted by AzzHauler
....
Now answer my other question in your thread!
Now answer my other question in your thread!
TO ANYONE ELSE READING.... just wanna say....
I don't know this guy
What's it look like pulling the TB, look like it's been eating oil?
Download a stock tune and compare timing tables. What may appear stock for one year can be very aggressive for another (ie '99 vs '01).
If there doesn't seem to be a problem there, then chances are your problem is not in the tune - especially with a stock timing table on a stock or nearly stock car.
If there doesn't seem to be a problem there, then chances are your problem is not in the tune - especially with a stock timing table on a stock or nearly stock car.
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Probably gonna do the seafoam when the oil change is here (any day now...). The stock timing on it only peaked around 26, and 22 is about the max in the high table now. I looked at some other files, but can't recall atm their numbers. Sucks that I can't open 2 different OS calibration files in efilive for comparison in the same program instance.
My question was about where you got the iat weatherpak connecturs, Uncle Teddy.
My question was about where you got the iat weatherpak connecturs, Uncle Teddy.
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Just because it is pulling 4 degrees of knock during WOT, it doesn't mean that is all the timing you need to reduce for knock to go away. Some calibrations have a set 4 degrees of timing to retard under certain condition, like WOT. So if you lower the timing by 4 degrees, say from 26 to 22, and still get knock ... if you still see 4 degrees, you may want to be more agressive on reducing timing because knock retard has been maxed out and it will not pull more timing. This could damage you engine. If you see less then 4 degrees of timing retard, then you are getting closer to a better timing curve. JFYI. 
12secSS is right; in PE only 4 degrees can be pulled. You don't have any knock sensor codes do you? No one went in and turned them off either did they?
I don't know uncle Teddy, but I am buying the connectors in Bulk from Weatherpack already pig-tailed so that I don't have to deal with pins and crimping them.
I don't know uncle Teddy, but I am buying the connectors in Bulk from Weatherpack already pig-tailed so that I don't have to deal with pins and crimping them.
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Hmmm. Well it was pulling well more than 4* before the table changes. It wasn't a case of not pulling knock, or pulling a constant 4* as when there is a sensor failure. I was more or less initially posting just ranting about it pinging quite excessively all stock, which reducing timing helped fix (imagine that). I still get up to ~3* now which puts my effective timing at 18-19ish. For the moment I'm just glad it's not so bad that I can hear it anymore... But I'll get around to not being lazy and fix it soonish. But you shouldn't really have to fix a stock car... 
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The wideband was used on the dyno. The worst pull (as far as knock) was in the lower 12.x:1. The next pull was leaned out a couple points and had less knock. Never was leaner than 12.5:1.