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Still throwing p0102 & p0118 after changing parts + hesitation after washing engine

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Old 06-20-2007, 11:05 PM
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Default Still throwing p0102 & p0118 after changing parts + hesitation after washing engine

P0102- Low MAF voltage. Checked continuity between pcm & changed MAF, still there after clearing codes.

P0118- High coolant temp output or something like that- Changed sender, did same things as above.

Hesitation is below ~2000 rpms and involves sputtering and loss of power. No codes for that. Just vibrates till it gets out of hesitation mode, sometimes it's below 1500, sometimes not. Really random. Happened after I washed the engine bay I think.

HELP PLEASE!!! THANKS!
Old 06-21-2007, 09:23 AM
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I'm not an expert but that happened when my girl washed her engine in her stang gt. It eventually went away. I wash my engine quite frequently and its never happened. I just try to stay atleast 2ft away from almost everything. and I don't put a lot of water pressure around things that look sensitive like the intake and wires and the computer. You should be fine. UNLESS you stuck the hose right up to your intake and held it there.

I doubt you did that though.
Old 06-21-2007, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 7camaro7
I'm not an expert but that happened when my girl washed her engine in her stang gt. It eventually went away. I wash my engine quite frequently and its never happened. I just try to stay atleast 2ft away from almost everything. and I don't put a lot of water pressure around things that look sensitive like the intake and wires and the computer. You should be fine. UNLESS you stuck the hose right up to your intake and held it there.

I doubt you did that though.
I thought it was that too, but that happened almost 2 weeks ago and i've probably put about ~200 miles on it and it still hasn't gone away
Old 06-21-2007, 03:08 PM
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Check the Eng Sens fuse in one of the under hood fuse boxes.
Old 06-21-2007, 03:16 PM
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Thinking the same thing, but reverse lockout solenoid is on the same circuit (M6) and no mention of hard getting it into reverse?
Old 06-21-2007, 03:34 PM
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It's an LS1 in my RX-7, so I have none of those fuses, just a modified harness. I think we put a resistor for something that has to do with shifting when we did my harness too. How long does it take for gas to go bad btw? My gas is ~30 days old I think...
Old 06-21-2007, 10:07 PM
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your gas should be good I'd think gas would go bad in much longer than that I'm taking a lucky guess at about 3 or 4 months. Just chill and make it do what it do till you put gas in it again. It should be okay but if it gets worse get it checked out.
Old 06-21-2007, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewdruiz
It's an LS1 in my RX-7, so I have none of those fuses, just a modified harness. I think we put a resistor for something that has to do with shifting when we did my harness too. How long does it take for gas to go bad btw? My gas is ~30 days old I think...
Something has to be feeding 12V to the pink wire or terminal C on the MAF even with a modified harness. Check for the 12V with a volt meter.
Old 06-21-2007, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Something has to be feeding 12V to the pink wire or terminal C on the MAF even with a modified harness. Check for the 12V with a volt meter.
Sounds like a good lead. I have had this problem since the day I finished the swap. I had to do the same for my coil packs.
Old 06-22-2007, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Something has to be feeding 12V to the pink wire or terminal C on the MAF even with a modified harness. Check for the 12V with a volt meter.
YOU WERE RIGHT!!! Thank you VERY VERY much!!! And my hesitation went away too! So all I have is p0118 left. Any ideas people? Thanks.
Old 06-22-2007, 03:45 PM
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What year PCM are you using?
Old 06-22-2007, 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
What year PCM are you using?
Just an '01 PCM reflashed for no emissions & whatnot. The code came up after I cracked off the plastic piece from the coolant temp sensor after installing my longtubes, I originally just glued it back on for the time being and it held up well. But I realized this code can also make me lose power, so I want to get rid of it. At first I thought because the GM LS1 flanges sit SUPER close to the coolant temp sensor, it was overheating it and messing it up, so I grinded away some of the flange, and put some exhaust wrap over the temp sensor (before I got a new one) and nothing... Then I got a new one, and nothing has changed...
Old 06-22-2007, 09:06 PM
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It's a pretty simple circuit. You either have an open between the ECT sensor terminal A and the PCM or terminal B and the PCM. Either condition will cause terminal 74 on the blue PCM connector to only read the +5V pull up voltage. Without the correct ECT data going to the PCM, you may never enter closed loop operation. Click on the link below.

http://www.gearchatter.com/si/374464.png
Old 06-22-2007, 10:34 PM
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And don't forget to check the sensor ground circuits by doing a voltage drop test. Make sure that the sensor ground is less than 50 mV with ignition ON. Less than 20 mV is ideal, but in the real world less than 50 mV is acceptable. If the ECT ground is higher than this, back-probe the sensor ground pins from the ecm to ground. This may be the cause as well. Good luck.
Old 06-22-2007, 11:54 PM
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Alright, so up next is to test for continuity on the tan wire (on '01 pcms) at blue 80.



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