what did you do to your firebird today?
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ramairjohn2000 (08-22-2020)
#3622
Hey, will be doing the CTSV 6 piston upgrade next year and will replace the hubs with C6 ones. Just to bad you have to do bigger rims. Gets expensive and the choice of rims is just staggering. I’m thing of the ESR S01 rims in that dark grey. Will see.
#3623
Well, got it all banged out today. Suspension is in. What a difference. Took about 6 hours with sanding and painting parts. All went smooth. Will attack the exhaust next. Then CTSV 6 pistons and rims next year. Corners like mad now. Just hope all that camber I now have will be corrected with the alignment. Check.
This is that camber I’m talking about. Is this normal after a drop? And will the alignment fix it?
This is that camber I’m talking about. Is this normal after a drop? And will the alignment fix it?
#3624
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Well, got it all banged out today. Suspension is in. What a difference. Took about 6 hours with sanding and painting parts. All went smooth. Will attack the exhaust next. Then CTSV 6 pistons and rims next year. Corners like mad now. Just hope all that camber I now have will be corrected with the alignment. Check.
This is that camber I’m talking about. Is this normal after a drop? And will the alignment fix it?
This is that camber I’m talking about. Is this normal after a drop? And will the alignment fix it?
#3626
TECH Regular
iTrader: (1)
Well, got it all banged out today. Suspension is in. What a difference. Took about 6 hours with sanding and painting parts. All went smooth. Will attack the exhaust next. Then CTSV 6 pistons and rims next year. Corners like mad now. Just hope all that camber I now have will be corrected with the alignment. Check.
This is that camber I’m talking about. Is this normal after a drop? And will the alignment fix it?
This is that camber I’m talking about. Is this normal after a drop? And will the alignment fix it?
John
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ramairjohn2000 (07-04-2020)
#3629
This never happens to me:
Been looking for a dash pad for a couple weeks. All I found were the usual $300 - $500 ones. Found one for $250 meh. So on Thursday, a Craigslist post shows up for $125 I think to myself, there's go to be something wrong here. Maybe it's a dash topper, right? Well, it's worth an email I guess... Turns out, it's the real deal, used dash, described as "perfect". It's an hour and twenty minutes one way... Nice day, so why not go for a drive? And, as it turns out - EXACTLY as described!!!
The worst part - trying not to crack the new one wen putting it in... Sweaty palms time lol
So, that's what I did today
*** There is another one in East Lansing MI, asking $150 on CL if anyone is interested. Have not seen it though***
Before
During
After
Been looking for a dash pad for a couple weeks. All I found were the usual $300 - $500 ones. Found one for $250 meh. So on Thursday, a Craigslist post shows up for $125 I think to myself, there's go to be something wrong here. Maybe it's a dash topper, right? Well, it's worth an email I guess... Turns out, it's the real deal, used dash, described as "perfect". It's an hour and twenty minutes one way... Nice day, so why not go for a drive? And, as it turns out - EXACTLY as described!!!
The worst part - trying not to crack the new one wen putting it in... Sweaty palms time lol
So, that's what I did today
*** There is another one in East Lansing MI, asking $150 on CL if anyone is interested. Have not seen it though***
Before
During
After
The following 3 users liked this post by Mr555:
#3630
Finally completed the stubby antenna swap. Found this 1.5" antenna on Amazon. Reception is still great - I just wanted the radio to work and get a signal, even though 99% of my time will be spent either listening to my iTunes purchases or XM.
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Jeff Ringness (10-28-2020)
#3631
Launching!
iTrader: (13)
GMMG update
Swapped out the original GMMG I-Pipe with a new one from Madhammer. Absolutely amazing quality and perfect fit. I had some customization done for the new I-Pipe and the turnaround time was super fast and cost was very reasonable - still stainless. Excellent product and service.
#3632
TECH Addict
iTrader: (57)
Swapped out the original GMMG I-Pipe with a new one from Madhammer. Absolutely amazing quality and perfect fit. I had some customization done for the new I-Pipe and the turnaround time was super fast and cost was very reasonable - still stainless. Excellent product and service.
#3634
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
I dropped the rear axle out of my car this past weekend in preparation for swapping in an S60. Did find a piece of gear come out when I drained the old unit, it has been making noise for nearly a year now, gradually getting worse to the point it was so noisy I didn't want to drive it. Now that it is out, I can feel axial play in the pinion. Not spending a dime on this weak 7.5" 10-bolt. Will be upgrading the LCAs, TA and PHB while I'm at it.
#3635
Staging Lane
Replaced a couple broken interior plastic bits. The TCS switch plate was loose, having had one of the plastic tabs snap off sometime over the years. And I discovered the shift boot was not fitting tightly, the plastic retaining ring having snapped into three pieces. Found both parts from Hawks. No issues with the shift boot retaining ring, just had to be careful fitting it back into place, as like the original its made of thin plastic. The TCS switch plate fit ok, but the color isn't spot on (its a little too brown, versus a true grey, so it doesn't exactly match). Not something most people would notice however.
#3636
Copy & Paste Moderator
Do you have pics of the one from Hawk's?
I 3D Printed and painted a custom one for myself:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...tch-panel.html
http://www.fadingarrow.com/images/Fi...%20Covered.jpg
I made that Ash Tray block off plate and HVAC ***** too.
I 3D Printed and painted a custom one for myself:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/appearanc...tch-panel.html
http://www.fadingarrow.com/images/Fi...%20Covered.jpg
I made that Ash Tray block off plate and HVAC ***** too.
Last edited by VIP1; 08-15-2020 at 08:57 PM.
#3637
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
This past weekend I killed 3 birds with one stone:
1) New window motors installed both sides, used Cardone 82-145 motors which seem to have an abundance of torque, so much that it bows the inside door panel if you keep your finger on the switch too long after the glass reaches its end of travel. The hardest part was figuring out where to drill the access holes in the door shell to access the rivets holding the motor to the lift mechanism. I followed a YouTube video, but they showed only the passenger side door, the driver's door rivets are located slightly different due to the asymmetry of the motor mounting holes.
2) Replaced the dried-out and buzzing woofers in the doors, the factory originals were weathered and the foam surround was falling apart. Used Orion replacements with plastic cones and rubber surrounds. Kept the factory cross-over and tweeters (they seem to be working fine). Much better sound.
3) Did the door panel crack aversion trick by replacing ALL of the staples holding the window "fuzzy" to the door panel with zip-ties. The hardest part was getting the staples out. I drilled new holes just straddling the old staple holes for the new zip-ties, did them one at a time so I didn't have to worry about the "fuzzy" moving around. Fortunately, my panels had not cracked yet (probably because I never park it outside in the cold of winter), so hopefully I dodged that bullet.
1) New window motors installed both sides, used Cardone 82-145 motors which seem to have an abundance of torque, so much that it bows the inside door panel if you keep your finger on the switch too long after the glass reaches its end of travel. The hardest part was figuring out where to drill the access holes in the door shell to access the rivets holding the motor to the lift mechanism. I followed a YouTube video, but they showed only the passenger side door, the driver's door rivets are located slightly different due to the asymmetry of the motor mounting holes.
2) Replaced the dried-out and buzzing woofers in the doors, the factory originals were weathered and the foam surround was falling apart. Used Orion replacements with plastic cones and rubber surrounds. Kept the factory cross-over and tweeters (they seem to be working fine). Much better sound.
3) Did the door panel crack aversion trick by replacing ALL of the staples holding the window "fuzzy" to the door panel with zip-ties. The hardest part was getting the staples out. I drilled new holes just straddling the old staple holes for the new zip-ties, did them one at a time so I didn't have to worry about the "fuzzy" moving around. Fortunately, my panels had not cracked yet (probably because I never park it outside in the cold of winter), so hopefully I dodged that bullet.
Last edited by JohnnyBs98WS6Rag; 08-17-2020 at 12:28 PM.
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ramairjohn2000 (08-17-2020)
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ramairjohn2000 (08-23-2020)