firebird967

I have searched the threads. Broken links; out of production items; old tech.; threads that go on for days; endless youtube vids…

DRL:
I’m going to put new housings, plugs and amber LEDs (don’t like switch backs) and an electronic flasher.
Question: Do I need a new flasher for the hazards? I never see anything mentioned about that.

Fog:
Pretty sure I can get plug & play LED fog lamps easily. If anyone has a part number, that would be great.

Headlights:
I am looking for plug and play LED headlights that look OEM. I don’t want to drill, grind, re-wire (besides the connector), or any other mod. I also don’t care for the ones that look like they’re off a spaceship.
late model lighting dot com appears to have what I’m looking for, but is quite expensive and out of stock anyway.

This may seem like a dumb question, but what about the high beams?
Most of what I’ve researched either did not do the highs, or they said “order a second set”.
How can it just be a second set of the exact same thing?

So, in 2021, what’s available for headlights?

toplesswhite

I Got these off of EBAY- they work great, MUCH better than stock- Brights work how they should etc
For fog lights, I have these with halo lights


I actually have 2 sets of the white Halo fog lamps if you are interested in one

blackbyrd

iTrader: (14)

is that a sealed housing led replacement?

VIP1

There are plenty of threads with working pics in the Appearance & Detailing section and in the Lighting FAQ.

Headlights: LMC Truck housings and LED bulbs. There are separate High & Low Beam housings. Pick good bulbs that have a thin strip of LEDs in the same shape and placement as the original bulb's filament.

DRL: Get 3157 Amber LED bulbs

Fog Lights: There are thread on aftermarket options (some are labeled as for a Harley and others are a replica of a Morimoto fog light).

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

you need electronic flashers for turns AND hazard

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Actually, replacing the hazard flasher isn't usually necessary if you're only doing LEDs in the front. The remaining four rear incandescent bulbs will usually be enough to allow the original flasher to continue working, depending on its age and condition. Of course, a basic electronic flasher is pretty inexpensive so replacing the hazard flasher is not a bad idea. And if you're doing LEDs in the tail lights as well then you will need an LED-specific no load flasher for both (a basic electronic flasher won't work).

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

There is a new projector option. Genssi makes a black housing with the same style projectors as the Harley driving lights in the correct 4th gen TA size.

VIP1

Those Genssi headlights have been around for a while and are larger than the Firebird headlights. They are 4x6 and the H4701/H4703 headlights on the Firebird are slightly smaller. Unless Genssi made a new version that is smaller.

firebird967

I’ve been doing some reading.
Are those regular LMC Truck lights, out of the box, better than my current Sylvania ones?
I’ve read that LEDs are not good in those housings because they scatter the light and blind people.
My goal is to see better at night. It’s not about looking modern, or having white lights. If I can see better, while reducing heat and getting longer life out of the bulbs and sockets, that’s why I am looking at LED.

VIP1

The LMC Truck housings with upgraded 9011/9012 bulbs (which replace 9005/9006) will definitely be better than regular off the shelf Sylvania or Wagner H4701/H4703 sealed beam bulbs. However, the 9011/9012 bulb is a right angle bulb and you will need to trim the headlight bucket on the car for them to fit (they should fit the housings fine or possibly need a minor trim to a plastic tab on the bulb). The LMC Truck Housings come with Striaght 9005/9006 bulbs which should fit the car without any cutting. Its the upgraded right-angle 9011/9012 bulbs that need cutting to the bucket.

Putting LED in them is a mixed bag just as putting LED in any other Halogen Housing. Some LED bulbs work fine in some Halogen Housings. Some are total crap.

Majozak

wssix99 Hope you're well, thanks for the help over the years.

Update from a couple years ago - I replaced the motors in both headlights, re-wired from the headlights back as far as I could go, replaced the headlight control module and still had issues. I ended up redoing all the wiring connections on all of the wiring harnesses on both sides and that seems to have solved the issues I had prior to now.

I have a new issue. It's with the driver's side headlight and what's happening is quite often when I hit the lights, the light comes on, but the headlight does not flip up. When I go to manually raise it, the **** is tightened down really tight. So, if I just loosen it, the motor will fire if I go hit the switch.

So, what I think is happening is that the motor is over tightening the headlight down.

Any suggestions? Did I miss something during the install of this motor, or did I get a motor with a slight manufacturing variance?

Many thanks in advance.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

There's nothing to really jam the door in the mechanism in a normal state. Even if the door tightens, the polarity of the motor reverses to open up, so it just backs out of whatever situation it's in. I suppose if the headlight door gear is starting to get gnarly, it could lock up internally, but the gears almost always and universally strip. (Nylon or Metal)

This problem sounds like a classic manifestation of the cold solder joint issue inside the headlight door control module. When you replaced yours, I assume you went with a used one? The details of my escapade start on post #1838 of this thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...o-here-46.html (It's a matter of time before all modules will have this issue. A simple pass of a solder iron and a little solder fixes this.)

I suspect that the act of opening your hood to turn the **** and then shutting the hood is enough to knock things around and cause the cracked joint to make contact. (and for the motor to work again) The next time this happens, just open the hood and then slam it down again and see if the motor works. (without actually touching the headlight or the motor) If so - it's definitely the cold solder joint issue.

Majozak

I'll try the hood next time and see if that triggers it.

And to clarify, there's no adjustment or incorrect installation that could be causing the **** to overtighten when it shuts the headlamp?

Regarding the motor getting gnarly, it's brand new, so it shouldn't have too much wear on it.

Regarding the HCM, yes I replaced it with a tested, used one from Hawks Motor Sports.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Not that I can think of. Sometimes, people will install the 3 motor bolts in the wrong direction and that will cause the linkage to bind, so you might want to check that. If I remember correctly, they don't all go the same way and the nuts need to be pointed in a specific direction, so the extra end of the bolt doesn't hit the door linkage.

k3000

interesting and just wow!

ckmcc

Long story short is I have two F-Body cars; a 2001 Z28/SS - trashed body but a low miles drive train and 2002 Firebird Formula - no drive train but mostly clean otherwise. Obviously my plan is to swap the parts from the trashed SS into the clean body FB (Frankenbird?) Also the Z28/SS is a higher optioned car with LS rear axel, four channel brakes and traction control. Since I want to move these options onto the FB together with the drive train I believe I need to move the front wiring harness from the SS to the FB (along with the SS brake system and LS axel components.) Those tasks are straight forward but my question right now is about the wiring harnesses.

I know the connector for the FB lights incorporates the motor wires as well as the H/L beams. I can't really see any other differences that aren't option specific. My question is does the SS wiring harness have the wire pairs for the headlight motors embedded in it so I can splice the connectors from the FB into the SS harness? Is there a controller for the headlight motors and if so where is it? Any other wiring harness issues I should be looking for?

I am moving the entire wiring harness with the fuse and relay clusters from the SS. Also note that I moved the steering column and BCM from the SS to the FB to replace the broken steering column and missing BCM in the FB.

bad455ta

Great thread...I've been wondering the same myself and you seem to have the same idea of lights as I do. I've also got a C5 and there are literally tons of updated lighting options for that car but not as many for the WS6. Please keep us posted on what you find.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

You'll need Firebird body harnesses. There are more differences, like the headlight control module, (middle of the engine bay) radios, and other components.

ckmcc

Thanks for the reply wssix99.

I have both harnesses. I've got the HL control module still in the FB body harness as well as the FB HL connectors. The SS body harness has the traction control harness in it, the FB harness does not (single channel rear brakes with the differential reluctor.) Also, I have the complete SS brake package, do not have the FB brake controls that went with the drive train.

One last thing that favors the SS body harness: When the motor and trans were lifted from the Firebird they were taken out the top. The sawzall that removed the upper rad support nicked the body harness. With the FB harness out of the car I'm confident I can inspect and repair the cut wires (probably 6-10 wires) but I'd rather have the harness that was never nicked if there aren't other major differences. Like I said the SS had the traction control option with the torsen LS diff. Based on what I've read here I don't think I care about traction control but it is an option that could help here in snow country and there is an off button right?

My question is which is the easiest to do: repairing the FB body harness and removing the TCS components or replacing the SS HL cables with the FB HL module and cables? In either case FB rear axel gets upgraded with LS center and speed sensors on both rear wheels.

I'd appreciate your thoughts on it.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

Please start a new thread on this topic. This thread is specifically for headlights and you'll get more eyes on your problem, probably in the General Maintenance section or the Pontiac Firebird section. That's also a good place to have a TCS discussion and there are many threads already posted on the topic. You might also try some of the other resources on this site. We have sponsors that can do custom harness work, a parts market place where you may find people parting out cars with the exact harness you want, etc. You may also check out the Conversions and Hybrids section. That group won't be doing what you are doing, but they deal with harness and compatibility issues constantly. (So not a good place to post this problem, but a good place to check out.)